Bov ???

[nickstalontsi]

So I just got done rebuilding my 7bolt in my 95 talon tsi. I'm only looking to run between 17-19psi and for the moment im still on a smic and stock intercooler piping. I want to run a atomspheric dumb bov...or should I install the 1g bov? any suggestions for both ideas??

 

[romeen]

A crushed 1G BOV should be able to hold that boost level. It is not recommended to run it in a VTA setup. Your car will not run as well as it would in the stock configuration.

 

[pooker]

The only way you could run an atmos dumped bov is if you have maft or a a speed density setup. I would reccomend getting the greddy rs with the recirc turbe if you can afford it, nice sound even on recirc'd cars. If not a 1g crushed bov will more than suffice.

 

[joesansone17]

the 1g bov might not sound or be as cool, but performance wise for you its very nice

 

[yesItsdsm]

If you insist on venting to the atmosphere, and go with the maft setup or speed density as stated, I would still use a 1g bov. A buddy of mine has one on his turbo GS-R and it sounds great vented.

 

[Locutus78]

I have a GReddy RS, and if you ever plan to boost past 28psi, then don't waist your time. Just get a Tial and call it a day.

 

[jumpfroggy]

1g BOV's are really cheap used. It'll hold what you're looking for too. If you spend more on a greddy or similar, it wont really do anything else for you at those levels. But since you mention venting to atmosphere, I assume you're partly motivated by sound and brand names. If it's important enough, spend the extra for the sound. Wont really gain much else though.

 

[kmoore]

1st off, from the looks of your setup, it doesn't look like youhave new turbo or any fuel modifications. So unless you want to blow that little t-25 up pretty soon, I would stick to about 14-16 psi on the stock fuel system

I would reccomend getting the greddy rs with the recirc turbe if you can afford it, nice sound even on recirc'd cars. If not a 1g crushed bov will more than suffice.

And I would NOT, I repeat NOT recommend the Greddy type RS and from personal experiences, think its a piece of crap. I have had TWO Greddy type RS' leak boost on me and not seal properly. I now have an HKS SSQV (Recirculated) and couldn't be happier. Great BOV and if you looking for sound, great sound too.

 

[Cs4g63]

I dont have any personal experience with this BOV so I dont how well it works. But its an option.
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=417&cat=7&page=1

 

[nickstalontsi]

I plan on doin the 14b swap...I've read through the forums and found they have a 12%cfm increase over the t25. I think I'll more then likely go with the 1g throttle body and the bov. Keeping the 2g TB elbow and follow the 1g TB installation steps. I've also read that the uncrushed 1g bov can hold upto 18psi...should I go crushed or uncrushed? Also I forgot to mention the mod's I do have on my car...I've pretty much been following the 2g upgrade path. I have a 3" down pipe, test pipe, and Borla Cat back. I'm running 550cc injectors, a rewired Walbro fuel pump, and have removed all the emission shit, shaved down the bov dump tube inside of the intake tube, the boost control solenoid restrictor, and removed the honeycomb in the maf sensor. Swapped the plugs and wires out for NGK Iridiums and Magnecore 8.5mm wires. My initial intent on this car is to go as far as possible but stick as close to stock parts between 1g and 2g parts. Following the RoadRaceEngineering's 2g upgrade path I should be in the 12's with out havin to go to a big turbo etc etc etc. I want to find out if its true.

 

[romeen]

I plan on doin the 14b swap...I've read through the forums and found they have a 12%cfm increase over the t25. I think I'll more then likely go with the 1g throttle body and the bov. Keeping the 2g TB elbow and follow the 1g TB installation steps. I've also read that the uncrushed 1g bov can hold upto 18psi...should I go crushed or uncrushed? Also I forgot to mention the mod's I do have on my car...I've pretty much been following the 2g upgrade path. I have a 3" down pipe, test pipe, and Borla Cat back. I'm running 550cc injectors, a rewired Walbro fuel pump, and have removed all the emission shit, shaved down the bov dump tube inside of the intake tube, the boost control solenoid restrictor, and removed the honeycomb in the maf sensor. Swapped the plugs and wires out for NGK Iridiums and Magnecore 8.5mm wires. My initial intent on this car is to go as far as possible but stick as close to stock parts between 1g and 2g parts. Following the RoadRaceEngineering's 2g upgrade path I should be in the 12's with out havin to go to a big turbo etc etc etc. I want to find out if its true.

It's really not that hard to make power in a turbocharged car. IMO, tuning and driving skills become increasingly important as power increases. Whatever you are using to tune with (your profile does not show tuning method) get good at it or have a skilled tuner help you.

Sometimes the best "mod" to work on is seat time. Practice (launching, quick shifting, etc.) and practice some more.

Personally, I would replace the honeycomb in the MAF. Many feel that their removal will allow greater airflow but I am not aware of any measurments to support this. And they do serve a purpose in "directing" the airflow. If I am wrong about that I will listen to other arguments but I think the car runs better with the honeycomb in. And you really don't need iridium spark plugs. Copper is a better conductor of electricity. I'm not saying iridium is bad but NGK coppers have proven themselves over and over. I hope I don't sound patronizing, just trying to help.

Good luck in your quest for 12's, it's very achievable.