14b

[rich3389]

I dont have my logger yet, im just wondering on my 2g with a walbro 190 FP(not rewired), dave brode UICP, 1g BOV, hard intake pipe, and a 14b running 14-15 lbs boost, would i be running to rich/lean?

 

[CanadianTSi]

The ECU should still be able to maintain factory AFR's.

 

[MrBoxx]

You'll be fine. Rewire your fuel pump; it's cheap and easy. And get a logger to check for knock.

 

[tyger1]

Hmmmm.....I'll be fist to say that is impossible to tell with out a logger of some type.

 

[rich3389]

ok well when i get my pocket logger(the m100 from dsmloggers.com) how do i tell if i am running rich/lean or knocking, i cannot find anyplace that tells me how to read my datalogs.

 

[brute]

Rich or lean conditions are indicated by o2 sensor voltage. As far as knock, when you do a log, there will be a column entitled knock and will have the counts. Having 0 or 1 is generally accepted by many as being fine.

 

[rich3389]

so what voltage would the 02 sensor read if it was running to rich/low. I believe on a 2g the only way you can see if its knocking is by the timing being pulled, whats a normal timing reading though?

 

[CanadianTSi]

Stock timing is 16 degree's on the highest airflow map. The only way to really tell if you are rich/lean is with a wideband.

 

[delta448]

so what voltage would the 02 sensor read if it was running to rich/low.

http://www.zeitronix.com/questions/O2questions.htm

 

[Eastwood95]

Ok, although most will argue that the Narrowband o2 readout is crap (which I do agree)the narrowband o2 will still put you close to where you want to be. I believe most people, admit it or not, have tuned with a NB readout at some time or another.
You can get away with tuning off the NB readout with a logger, because you have timing info to back it up.

I still recommend getting a Wideband set-up, as I am currently saving for one.

It varies from car to car, but to run it safe it should be somewhere around .92-.94
Below .91 is considered lean, above .95 is rich
You'll have to log timing also. When you go WOT, your timing will drop to around 4-8 and it should steadily climb up to around 19 at redline. If your timing is held or pulled back down when your rpms are still climbing, that is knock.

 

[delta448]

When you go WOT, your timing will drop to around 4-8 and it should steadily climb up to around 19 at redline.

You are able to get 19 only because of the SAFC you are using to tune.

Stock timing is 16 degree's on the highest airflow map.

 

[deletrius]

CanadianTSi is correct, since you are on stock injectors there is no compensation needed from a piggyback, the stock ECU will sort everything out. And get that fuel pump rewired, it only takes a couple hours, the longest part being soldering the wires together.

 

[mhuffman]

CanadianTSi is correct, since you are on stock injectors there is no compensation needed from a piggyback, the stock ECU will sort everything out. And get that fuel pump rewired, it only takes a couple hours, the longest part being soldering the wires together.

I've heard that rewiring the fuel pump gets more voltage to it, but has anyone tried a before and after comparison of voltage and maximum fuel pump output? Does it really help?

 

[Semprini]

yes someone has

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=244522

Stock 2g pump

10psi = 33.29lbs/min
11psi = 32.61lbs/min
12psi = 31.90lbs/min
13psi = 31.17lbs/min
14psi = 30.41lbs/min
15psi = 29.63lbs/min
16psi = 28.84lbs/min
17psi = 28.01lbs/min
18psi = 27.16lbs/min
19psi = 26.28lbs/min
20psi = 25.38lbs/min
21psi = 24.46lbs/min
22psi = 23.51lbs/min
23psi = 22.54lbs/min
24psi = 21.54lbs/min
25psi = 20.52lbs/min

Stock 2g pump (Rewired)

10psi = 42.08lbs/min
11psi = 41.51lbs/min
12psi = 40.92lbs/min
13psi = 40.30lbs/min
14psi = 39.67lbs/min
15psi = 39.00lbs/min
16psi = 38.32lbs/min
17psi = 37.61lbs/min
18psi = 36.88lbs/min
19psi = 36.13lbs/min
20psi = 35.35lbs/min
21psi = 34.55lbs/min
22psi = 33.72lbs/min
23psi = 32.88lbs/min
24psi = 32.01lbs/min
25psi = 31.11lbs/min

 

[rich3389]

so when I rewire my pump, can i tap from my power wire for my speaker amp? If i did that it would make my rewire go really fast to.

 

[Semprini]

as long as your amp lead is bigger than 10awg... 8awg would prob be best, since youll be pulling two loads depending on how much the amp draws. What size amp is it?

 

[2GeNTSi]

I have a similar setup but my car is crap and maxxes out at around 13 degrees advanced. Hopefully that'll change soon.

 

[scottsee]

I dont have my logger yet, im just wondering on my 2g with a walbro 190 FP(not rewired), dave brode UICP, 1g BOV, hard intake pipe, and a 14b running 14-15 lbs boost, would i be running to rich/lean?

No, you will only fall into problems when reach 2.55g/rev, run over 100%IDC, or start out flowing the fuel pump. All of which will not happen with those modifications. The Ecu will use its factory enrichment values and timinig maps based off airflow to accuratly deliver the demands of your engine.. If you choose to alter the HZ signal sent to the ecu in order to change enrichment map you are using then you will need to get 'somthing' to do so. (safc, maft, dsmlink, exc) . If not you'll be running a highly conservitive factory enrichment, not good for power, but great for engine reliability.

I would venture to doubt you would even reach the peak timing/fuel enrichment maps above 2.1g/rev with that level of airflow/boost. If you did it would be extreamly short peirod of time in between peak volumetric effency/cylinder pressure which occurs around 4500-5000 rpm, then as aiflow/ve drops so will your timing. Point being, it's a pretty safe setup, for now..

 

[rich3389]

i used to have 2 amps connected, one for my sub and one for my speakers, but i got rid of my sub and amp, so the only power coming off the line is a 600 watt pioneer to my speakers, so i dont have a sub draining all the power from it anymore. im pretty sure its atleast an 8 gauge wire to.. so i think im gonna tap the power from there instead of running a wire from the fron of the car again(the most time consuming part i believe).

 

[rich3389]

one last question sorry guys. with my setup do i need to get colder plugs im running NGK's for a stock setup right now.

 

[deletrius]

generally, you only need colder plugs if you are running over 18psi. so no, you don't need colder plugs

 

[Eastwood95]

NGK BPR7's are the DSM plug of choice

 

[PieEyedPiper]

NGK BPR7's are the DSM plug of choice

I disagree. Highly modded, high boost applications may like the colder BPR7ES plug, but the large majority of DSMs will want to be using BPR6ES plugs.
For our 2g 14b friend here, BPR6ES will be suitable.

And speaking of our 2g 14b friend,

As far as knock, when you do a log, there will be a column entitled knock and will have the counts. Having 0 or 1 is generally accepted by many as being fine.

This only applies to 1g owners.
you're going to want to make a log and watch your timing to determine if you are knocking. If it holds timing over a significant RPM span, you're knocking, and if your timing dips after initial boost onset, you're knocking. but you shouldn't have to worry much Because as CanadianTsi said, the stock ECU will handle this for you. should you choose to get an SAFC or DSMlink, well, thats a different story.

You'll be fine. Rewire your fuel pump; it's cheap and easy. And get a logger to check for knock.

While I agree, a rewire is an excellent mod no matter what pump you're using, it isn't required for a 14b.
The stock 2g fuel pump, stock 450cc injectors and stock ECU can handle the 14b running a reasonable level of boost.

I'll post a link to corroborating info.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251111&highlight=14b
Many thanks to SplitPi