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PART NUMBER? Or What is this called? and more problems!

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Foreverfalcon40

15+ Year Contributor
236
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Jul 19, 2006
North Babylon, New York
I am mising the pipe that runs from the turbo (where the wheel spools) to the Intake.

Will I need stock? I am running the ported 16g not the stock turbo. Is there an aftermarket pipe for this? Can I get one from the mitsubishi dealer?

Ok

Problem Number 2.

I installed the turbo and EBAY FMIC. The J-Pipe i got with my turbo CAN't CONNECT to the FMIC piping, it seems that the J-ipie and the FMIC piping are about two inches off? Am I faulting on my installion? I followed both FAQ's!

I could heat up the j-pipe and tiwist it to fit BUT it will weaken the metal of the j-pipe AND I PAID $800 for everything. With that ebing said, it should just be a direct bolt on!
 
There are several websites that sell aftermarket intakes for the 16g.

www.dejonpowerhouse.com for example.

You may want to make sure the j-ppe they gave you is for a FMIC setup. I'm running a 14b with a SMIC setup right now and the J-pipe I was given first was on the wrong side of the pump stop (FMIC setup) which totally screwed my IC piping route.
 
You say it's off by 2". Is it that something is too short by 2" or is it that things are misaligned by 2"? If your turbo is clocked wrong (the turbine housing needs to be rotated on the center section) and rotating the center section+compressor would align things, you might consider that. This assumes youre turbo oil return tube would work still, as it is bolted to the center section. Does the oil return tube line up right with the oil pan?
 
i Have bad eyes and I am unable to see this thing. I can't increase the size of this thing. Where is the maf located on this thing?

Now my in the end when my car was running I wanted to get the hard piping made and have it run through the bottom under through the opening where the SMIC would be. Do I need both red pipe and then an added hard pipe or can I just get one pipe made.

I will take and post pics monday of the off sections.
 

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Go to NAPA. Buy 2.25" (or 2.5" or whatever pipe size you're using) heavy-duty fuel/coolant hose, the thick tough stuff, and buy about a foot of it. Use it to replace that blue coupler. Use the hose to extend the right leg of that elbow so that the short end (pointing up) can connect to the end of your J-pipe. This is the same stuff that Dejon sends with his intercooler pipes, so I'm sure it'll hold up to the pressure.

If you're using 2.25" hose, it should say on the side of it: 615 Straight Hose 2 1/4": I don't know if the "615" is the actual part number or not, but you can ask the guys at NAPA.
 
I feel I shouldn't have to shell out anymore money. $800 for the turbo kit and $300 for the fmic with piping.

I contacted turbochargers.com (Where I bought the kit from). I was told by nother member that they gave me the wrong J-pipe. That is for a SMIC not a FMIC like I have. There response was they only have one J-Pipe!
 
To my knowledge, there are no J-pipes specifically made for either application, FMIC or SMIC. Some vendors J-pipes, like the one you have and the one RRE supplies in their TD05 conversion kits curve more toward the passenger side of the car. Some pipes supplied by other vendors curve more towards the driver's side. It just depends on where you get it from.

The hose that I mentioned in my last response is probably about $10 and will probably be more durable than the coupler that's currently on there.
 
I feel I shouldn't have to shell out anymore money.
Sorry to be mean but you own a DSM, that being said, you are gonna end up going broke...
 
1100 for a complete turbo and FMIC setup is dirt cheap and welcome to the modding game, there's always little problems and expenses's that you run into that you never expected. Thats just part of it.
 
You bought products from 2 different vendors. As was mentioned earlier, each vendors j pipe is different...if only slightly. You can't expect it to line up perfectly. The only guarantee is to buy everything from the SAME vendor.
 
The couplers have clamps on each end. They should hold up fine. Is it safe to heat up the j-pipe an tiwst it? Heating iot will make the metal weaker.
 
The difference between the two j-pipe locations is for either short route piping or the longer routed piping which is the same as the piping which goes to the stock side mount location. That is why they told you it was for a SMIC setup.
 
Ok I have 2 Questions:

1) Where can I purchase the correct J-Pipe to fix this?

2) Can I heat up the J-Pipe I have currently and twist to fit. heating up the metal will make it weaker. Will it effect it? Even if it does I want to do this temporarily until I get the right one in. I havent even started my car up since I bought it. This is the only thing holding me back now.
 
Please help, Saturday I want to get this over and done with. I have the turbo bolted up as a test with no gaskets. Saturday is gonna be a big day for me. I have no classes on Monday, So I wanna start this BIT>H up and drive!
 
If your going to buy a different J pipe anyway. Why not just go the route of going to your local parts store get some hose the same size as the blue fitting you have as a temp fix? You say you dont want to spend any more money, whats $5 when it comes to being able to drive your car? As far as heating up your pipe and bending it. Yes it probubly will make it weaker, how much im not sure but thats the risk you alwasy take bending metal with heat. When your throwing preformance parts on somthing there is always going to be things that dont line up, and parts that need to be moddified to work with your application. This is how it goes with everything, I run a pro street car and everything in that engine bay had to be moddified to fit correctly with everything else. Just shell out the $5 and have fun spoolin!
 
Foreverfalcon40 said:
1) Where can I purchase the correct J-Pipe to fix this?

As I mentioned before, there is no such thing that I know of, as a "specific J-pipe for FMICs" or a "specific J-pipe for SMICs": You either get one from a vendor that curves more towards the drivers side or you get one from a vendor that curves more towards the passenger side. Even if you were to get one that curves more towards the drivers side, there's no guarantee that it'll match up to your other intercooler pipe.

I still stand by my solution of just buying a longer coupler/hose and replacing that short one. At most it'll be $15 and two minutes to cut it to length. Since most NAPA's or Carquests will probably have the hose I'm talking about, you could have this done today.
 
I did the Napa thing, looks like a$$. :mad: I'm gonna bring it to an exhaust shop. Have them cut the flage off and realign it then weld it. I am gonna the hose I bought to replace the blue couplers I have. More heavy duty and better looking so Kudos for that!
:thumb:
I am running stock injecotrs with a 16g. On stcok boost this thing should run fine? No problems? If there is, where is the stock boost controller and can I do anything to make sure its fine?
 
Ok, instead of bringing it to the exhaust shop to do it, one of myfirends, who welds as a job was going to do it. Its not a simple cut and weld thing like planned. This thing needs to be cut, bent, and welded. My question is before I go buy one from RRE, can I go to an exhuast shop and have them make me one? If do what should I be looking for when they do it. Like metal? Coating? Etc...
 
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