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2.3 stroker

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Masakari

15+ Year Contributor
168
0
Nov 20, 2004
belpre, Ohio
I have been reading about people who have bored there 2.0's out to 2.3's..i was curious as to what something like this would cost, and what type of gains you get from doing it
 
bored out? are you sure you arne't talking about using the 4g64 crank in a 4g63 which makes the 2.3L stroker?
 
maybe thats the process he used, i cant find the link to it..it didnt say the method of how he got the 2.3..i just assumed it was bored for larger pistons.

so the only diffrence is the crank?

I have decided to keep my car and im pulling the engine and basically redoing everything in the engine bay...new vac lines, wires...anything that is questionable is getting replaced...while the engine is out its getting rebuilt...i am building it strong enough for a t3 but im only going to run a big 16 g...i am hoping that if i put the money in it to do it right this time and build this engine to near invincible stats i wont have to worry about anything for many miles to come...this 2.3 idea caught my attention and if i can gain strength from doing it then its going to get done...

I have 5 grand to put into this rebuild and really need advice on what needs done
 
Endz0r said:
bored out? are you sure you arne't talking about using the 4g64 crank in a 4g63 which makes the 2.3L stroker?

That is part of it, but you akso have to put oversized pistons in it. But back to the point, you only need to do a 2.3L stroker if you are running a turbo such as a FR Red or 60-1. It is not practical for anything like a 50trim and under. It will cost a pretty penny such as around 4k to do it right i would say. That is just my guess. It will provide better spool for large turbos and more low end tq. I am no expert but that is what i know.
 
I just saw your last post and no a 2.3 will not give you more strength. Just build a forged 2.0L and you will be happy. I promise.
 
why is a 50 trim not a good turbo for this? i was thinking about having a reliable 12 second car, which a 2.4L with a 50 trim would probably easily do...maybe i'm not seeing the bigger picture, but a 50 trim would spool at like 3000k and pull to at least 7500k which is about the rev limit on a 4g64...so you are having a motor that puts out 400whp, spools at 3000k, and has ass loads of torque goodiness.
 
LA97GST said:
I just saw your last post and no a 2.3 will not give you more strength. Just build a forged 2.0L and you will be happy. I promise.


what would i be lookign at price wise to build a forged 2.0? would this require a new head?

thanks for your input!
 
to answer that dudes question a 50 trim already spools very very well. I don't see why you would put the extra money in the engien to make it spool alittle better. If you are a rich spooled brat then yea knock yourself out.

Also a forged 2.0 would maybe be 2k for everything. It is very strong and reliable. Just my .02. No it wouldn't require a new head, but i suggest ported the head to take advantage of the boost levels you will be able to boost with a forged engine.
 
LA97GST said:
to answer that dudes question a 50 trim already spools very very well. I don't see why you would put the extra money in the engien to make it spool alittle better. If you are a rich spooled brat then yea knock yourself out.

Also a forged 2.0 would maybe be 2k for everything. It is very strong and reliable. Just my .02. No it wouldn't require a new head, but i suggest ported the head to take advantage of the boost levels you will be able to boost with a forged engine.


thanks, ive already got a stage 3 head..i was hoping you would say it wouldnt need swapped...that shit is expensive!
 
Masakari said:
thanks, ive already got a stage 3 head..i was hoping you would say it wouldnt need swapped...that shit is expensive!

I hear ya. But if you gonna run that 16g and maybe a 50 trim i say save money and build a builtproof 2.0.
 
you dont have to use the 4g64 crank..You can use any mistu 100mm crank. You have to get longer rods (try to make the rod ratio a little better) and pistions have a differnt wrist pin location.
 
i disagree with the comments reguarding turbo, or compressor wheel size making or breaking the idea to make the engine into a stroker. theres an old saying i think which can be applied here. "theres no replacement, for displacement." I would think its safe to say that the .3 liters can be benificial with any turbo. Plus u will probably even get the cool cam'd sound at idle, like a bad ass classic car. but it'd be a bad ass 4g63 cam'd sound. I wanna hear anyone. someone with this done should make a sound clip.
 
DaRKSiDeGSX said:
i disagree with the comments reguarding turbo, or compressor wheel size making or breaking the idea to make the engine into a stroker. theres an old saying i think which can be applied here. "theres no replacement, for displacement." I would think its safe to say that the .3 liters can be benificial with any turbo. Plus u will probably even get the cool cam'd sound at idle, like a bad ass classic car. but it'd be a bad ass 4g63 cam'd sound. I wanna hear anyone. someone with this done should make a sound clip.

I know there is no replacement but on a budget, with such a small turbo like he is running, it is just not the first priority. But if you have the money do it!
 
I was reading what you guys were saying. I have a 20G TDO5 60-1, spools full boost around 3500 RPMs, I was thinking of a stroker kit. I'm on a budget, would it make sense for me to get it?
 
TurboTalon11 said:
I was reading what you guys were saying. I have a 20G TDO5 60-1, spools full boost around 3500 RPMs, I was thinking of a stroker kit. I'm on a budget, would it make sense for me to get it?


You mean a 20g TO05... A 60-1 is a different turbo.

A stroker will make that spool alot sooner...

Built right its a good street, auto-x or occasional drag engine.

High RPM hurts an stroker alot more than high boost.. Dont rev the snot out of it but don't be afraid to crank up the MBC cause if you used forged pistons and rods it can take it.

There are pros and cons to each.. Any serious DSM engine will need forged slugs and rods if your ready for a built engine it's time to decide.
 
just forge your engine, youl save money and the money that you would spend to get a 2.3 you can spend on bolt on's etc or better forged parts.
 
im thinking about the buschur stage 3 block...what do you guys think about it...i would have to go back to my email but i think the price was around 3k...dont know if thats installed or not..

anyways, i would appreciate your oppinions
 
What kind of shape is your transmission in?

2.3 will put a bit more load on it..
 
I don't know about everyone elses joy toys but mine is eagle rods, on a forged crank, toped off with 9:1 +.20 bore JE pistons. In my humble opinion I would just take a little outta the block +.20 or +.30 and forged it. you get more torque and avoid a lot of headaches. The bore and small price up for oversized pistons only cost me around $300 more than just putting all forged parts in all that will run you around 3.5-4.5 K.


good luck and let us know what you decide.
 
MNGSX said:
You mean a 20g TO05... A 60-1 is a different turbo.

A stroker will make that spool alot sooner...

Built right its a good street, auto-x or occasional drag engine.

High RPM hurts an stroker alot more than high boost.. Dont rev the snot out of it but don't be afraid to crank up the MBC cause if you used forged pistons and rods it can take it.

There are pros and cons to each.. Any serious DSM engine will need forged slugs and rods if your ready for a built engine it's time to decide.


The 20G I have has a Garret 60-1 compressor in it. I sent it to get rebuild with this upgrade and before the rebuild I had a garret H3 compressor. Heres the before and after spec.

Before rebuild:
Garret H3 compressor
14B seal plate
Standard thrust bearing
TDO5 Turbine

After rebuild:
Garret 60-1 Compressor upgrde
20G seal plate
Monster thrust bearing upgrade
TD05H turbine was replaced (Blades were broken)

The guy said it can handle over 500HP.
 
leet said:
What kind of shape is your transmission in?

2.3 will put a bit more load on it..


im running a shep tranny with most of the powerhandling mods weak link is the axles, my two front axles were gone, its up on blocks now till the new axles are in it

im probably not going to stroke it, im still looking for some input on the buschur stage 3 block
 
How does stroking cost more??? your only really buying a crankshaft right? If your getting forged pistions already then you just have to get different forged pistons (at the same or very close price), weisco already has a P/N for these (i believe).

So whats the crank worth? couple hundred new or 50 used?

Im thinking a stroker for mine and im just doing some research, but it looks good so far (BTW this will be a 16g no lag autoX car)
 
DaRKSiDeGSX said:
STROKE.......STROKE......STROKE.....
when in doubt, stroke 'er out!
The only question i have is why wouldn't I want a 2.3l stroker? LOL
And God said, let their be exchangable cranks!!!! :thumb:


that is about the best you could have put it!!!!!!! i have got a 2.3 stroker in my talon with head work and everything else, and even as i gun it, before the boost comes on you can feel a substaintial amount of power!!!!!! i raced one of my friends who has got a 95 talon with an upgraded turbo(too small of an exhaust turbo side so it doesn't go near what it should) who was @18 psi.... i was @ 10.5 psi and it was close before my boost came on!!! then you can imagine what happened when the boost was on!!! :thumb: overall though, i totally recommend a stroker to anyone who loves streetability and performance... :talon:
 
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