Very Low acceleration

[Tribal_RS_96]

Ok, I have the 420a 2.0 N/T. It's stock engine internal wise and I only have a CAI and complete exhaust system. I completed the compression test with all cylinders at factory specs. This motor has 120k miles. I'm impressed nothing has changed. No bent valves, and timing is spot on.

Now I'm looking at my lifters My oil pressure gauge reads 32-42 Psi at idle depending if I just came back from a drive. I'm noticing the common lifter rattle/tick noise when driving in the neighborhood. That's at 2200-2600 rpm. At 3k rpm. It's quiet. Other than that I'm noticing a major power loss. Its hard climbing hills even after downshifting. And pushing the gas pedal down on the highway.

No check engine lights what so ever. My vacuum gauge reads and shows no problems.

The only things I have left to do is swap out the stock lifters, are these lifters good?
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

buy a test pipe, the reason for this is because when the flanges were bought. the inside circle diameter was 2.4 instead of 2.5 on both sides, and what that's doing is causing too much back pressure.

Am I headed in the right direction? What else should I look at?

[garrettgoines]

With no CEL I would point to the fuel pump. Test it.

[Th3DooM]

First I guess you have a 420A engine. those lifters won't work with your engine because they are for the 4G64or 4G63-turbos.

Here is an ebay link for the right lifters. they even have the bigger holes:

95+ 2.0 Mitsubishi Eclipse NonTurbo 420A Lash Adjusters | eBay

I have exactly the same problem as you. Someone else recommended me to test the fuel pump, too.

[Tribal_RS_96]

Yeah, I tested the fuel pump today, that also checked out fine. But what I did find today is an unecessary amount of air coming from the connection point of this aftermarket ebay header/ downpipe. Guess what I'm going to try and do first is weld them together at the small little gap and see if that does something.

[Bentley05]

How clean is your air filter? check for blockage in intake tube and vac lines. make sure theres no leaks in vac lines. hows the spray on your injectors? Are your plugs properly gapped. Check basics. (Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow!!) Best of luck

[DSM1G90]

Sounds like a plugged CAT..

Chrysler CATS love to get plugged up with that many miles on them.

To test, drill a 1/8" hole in the front of the CAT right behind where the CAT bolts up to the intake pipe and if your power suddenly picks up = plugged CAT.

[Tribal_RS_96]

@Bentley05 The air filter is brand new, so is the spark plugs and wires. I swapped those out last week after I ran seafoam. Im running the NGKs at .52 gap The injectors are fine, the car starts up with no problems, doesnt try to stall or anything.

@DSM1G90 I ran the vacuum test and the gauge held steady at 22psi, no strage readings at all. No smoke no compression loss in the cylinders.

The problem is definitely coming from the header/downpipe. Its connected, but at the back theres this opening where you connect the two together. a lot of air is escaping. I will go get a pic and post it up here, I'm looking to get it welded sometime soon.

[DSM1G90]

Aren't those idle readings, for under a full load is when you notice a plugged CAT.

Im running the NGKs at .52 gap

supposed to be .039 to .043 .. You're blowing out the spark with that wide of gap...(and hope you meant .052 not .52 since that would be a little over an half inch of a gap..) unless you got a 75kV coil to jump a good spark across that wide of a gap.

[tinydancergst]

If its not a fuel problem then it must be an air problem. Try what a couple people before me have said and clean out all the intake piping and throttle body and such.

[Tribal_RS_96]

I meant .052 Im going by the owners manual

[jayson427]

You should check the voltage on your coil. I recommend sbi pt cruiser style lifters if your going to get them. You should do a fuel pressure test too. And how would you know your injectors are fine with out a flow test? I think your spark is bad or your cat is clogged if your lossing that much power. Unless your flange is completely not lined up I don't think you would lose as much power as you say.

[DSM1G90]

What do the plugs look like - baked white or sooty black.
I was going by Chilton on the plug gap.

Since jayson427 also has a 420A, what plug gap is he using?

[Th3DooM]

This:

Proper 420A Spark Plug Gap

[jayson427]

.052 is ok if your not using nkg's but if you are everyone says .045 is the best gap for a stock 420a.

[DSM1G90]

..from that link above posted by a wiseman ..

BKR6e's in the daily stocker .045
BKR7e's in the NA (12.5 comp) .038
BKR7e's in the Turbo (10.5 comp BW366) .016

MB

[Tribal_RS_96]

Ok, I got the header welded and some of my power returned. Today I removed the spark plugs. These plugs only have 25 miles on them.

[DSM1G90]

Put them back in and have fun driving.

25 miles doesn't prove anything.

Now, if you pull them with 5k miles on them and they look like this, still put them back in and happy driving.

[Tribal_RS_96]

Ok looking into anything else that could cause this. The more and more I cruise around town at 5 below speed limit, its starting to smoothen itself out. When putting in the spark plugs, i flashed a light into the cylinder holes and the pistons are dirty. carbon build up, seafoam is my next bet, also Im going to look at the knock sensor. Something is telling me it may be going bad and is retarding my timing while the engine is running, the timing is spot on and there are no strange mechanical noise at idle. When revved to 2500 rpm while parked, I hear this slight rattle coming from the head area. Its not a lifter or a rocker. has to be an A/F ratio issue because when I'm driving and I gas it, the rattle is gone.

[99RedGs]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but your idle oil pressure should be ~17psi after everything is warmed up. Are you running molasses or something? (JK) I'm assuming you don't have the A/C running while you are testing for power loss.... Check and replace your fuel filter, check the timing, is the clutch slipping?

Also, pm me if you're looking for a test pipe. I have a brand new one that is 2.5" piping. Its supposed to be a direct bolt on for our cars. I bought it because it was listed as 3" inlet/outlet which I was going to use in m turbo build, but when I got it it was 2.5"... I can sell it pretty cheap as I have no use for it.

[bryanwheat]

Originally Posted by Tribal_RS_96

Ok looking into anything else that could cause this. The more and more I cruise around town at 5 below speed limit, its starting to smoothen itself out. When putting in the spark plugs, i flashed a light into the cylinder holes and the pistons are dirty. carbon build up, seafoam is my next bet, also Im going to look at the knock sensor. Something is telling me it may be going bad and is retarding my timing while the engine is running, the timing is spot on and there are no strange mechanical noise at idle. When revved to 2500 rpm while parked, I hear this slight rattle coming from the head area. Its not a lifter or a rocker. has to be an A/F ratio issue because when I'm driving and I gas it, the rattle is gone.

Carbon on the pistons is pretty normal and won't effect performance really. If the plugs are clean and the rings and valves are sealing that it will run just fine. Your plugs look good which shows that your a/f ratio's are withing an acceptable range. Have you verified that the cam timing is 100 percent correct. Also did you try closing the gap on the plugs at all? Did you check for proper flow of the catalytic converter?

[Tribal_RS_96]

@99RedGs my bad, I should really be more specific when posting, nut I quickly type to get responses faster. My oil pressure is 32-42 psi when first started depending on the temp outside, after i come back from a drive it reads 16-22 psi. I also keep the A/C Off no clutch slippage, but today I did go in and tighten the linkage bracket on top of the transmission, that fixed my shifting issues. The fuel pump sounds when the key is turned and the fuel filter seems to be fine when started, i never have to give it gas or anything..... But today I did go into the fuel tank and the fuel pump strainer is full of crap. But this also allowed me to fix my fuel gauge float as well. I Just replaced the pump a year ago, but it sucked up all that old gas when I was running that old motor that spun a bearing. I also might consider that test pipe, can i still use my downstream o2 sensor?

@bryanwheat Yes, there was a mild difference when I lowered the gap on the spark plugs. I went from .052 to .038 But I'm pointing to the fuel pump/ strainer now after looking at the strainer. The timing is verified on spot, I'm not throwing any codes or hearing any misses or strange noises at idle. I will buy a new fuel pump and or strainer tonight and see what happens.

I have and adjustable fuel pressure regulator on there and when I was revving the engine from the engine bay, i did notice I lost some fuel pressure until i gave more gas...

@garrettgoines I'm pretty sure you are spot on for pointing to the fuel pump.

[Tribal_RS_96]

This is now getting troublesome. Replaced the fuel pump and started the car. Before I changed the pump the Car would start and rev to 2000RPM. Now it starts and revs to 1500RPM. When revved, at 2500RPM it still makes a noise coming from the valve cover but thats the only time I hear it. I definitely have more power now, but this rattle confuses me, I checked everything under the valve cover and nothing was stuck or out of place. No misses, or CEL at all. Couold it be my head gasket? No smoke is blowing from the exhaust, no coolant loss, no strange smell when the heater is turned on. No coolant bubbling. No compression loss still.

[djdsm]

im thinking clogged cat bro the noise could be something lose in the vavle cover im not sure i would take it to get looked at and see if somethings wrong with the head you never know good luck

[Tribal_RS_96]

Ok, still working more and more on this, I will get a video going tomorrow, I'm starting to think its now transmission related as well. 99RedGs the clutch might be slipping, but the clutch was brand new when I bought the car, the receipt was a month before I bought the car 3 years ago. I might need some help on diagnosing transmission problems.

Heres what I know so far about my transmission:

With the car shut off, I can shift through all my gears.

I will check for the clutch pedal play tomorrow as well.

[necrotopsy]

if the car is off, and on level ground not moving, you should be able to put it in any gear without pressing in the clutch.

you can actually shift a car WHILE driving without using the clutch, if you know how to rev match.
the clutch doesn't lock the shiftier in place.

i want to know what you consider "slow acceleration" it's not like a 420a is quick in the first place.