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1st Log- Basic stock setup (T-25) just to make sure everything is alright.

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kmoore

15+ Year Contributor
1,241
13
Mar 8, 2006
St, Louis, Missouri
Here it goes. Got my pocketlogger running great finally so I decided to do a log. Mods are in my profile. I decided to turn down the boost to 10-11psi just to make sure everything is alright. I am almost %100 sure that I don't have any boost leaks. What I am most concerned about is my front O2 readings. They are way out of wack. Here it goes:

RPM------TIMING-------TPS----O2 1 BANK 1

3104.0---- 14.0------- 98.62------ 0.96
3456.0---- 7.0-------- 98.62------ 0.94
3604.0---- 8.0-------- 98.62------ 0.94
3780.0---- 7.0-------- 98.62------ 0.96
4112.0---- 8.0-------- 98.62------ 0.94
4284.0---- 10.0------- 98.62------ 0.94
4580.0---- 10.0------- 98.62------ 0.94
4740.0---- 10.0------- 98.62------ 0.92
4908.0---- 10.0------- 98.62------ 0.92
5052.0---- 11.0------- 98.62------ 0.92
5340.0---- 13.0------- 98.62------ 0.92
5484.0---- 15.0------- 98.62------ 0.9
5832.0---- 16.0------- 98.62------ 0.9
5960.0---- 17.0------- 98.62------ 0.88
6112.0---- 19.0------- 98.62------ 0.88
6220.0---- 20.0------- 98.62------ 0.86
6356.0---- 20.0------- 98.62------ 0.82
6552.0---- 20.0------- 98.62------ 0.54
6652.0---- 21.0------- 98.62------ 0.38
6736.0---- 22.0------- 98.62------ 0.28
6632.0---- 22.0------- 98.62------ 0.24

edit:
Little Rich huh?
 
Shouldn't your TPS reading be 100.0 if you are WOT? Otherwise you are not running in open loop and the ECU will run rich. I'm not sure about this so you should ask a DSM Wiseman to confirm.
 
Shouldn't your TPS reading be 100.0 if you are WOT? Otherwise you are not running in open loop and the ECU will run rich. I'm not sure about this so you should ask a DSM Wiseman to confirm.

98-100 is basically %100 WOT. It may not read exactly 100 but if it is around 100 (like 98 in my case) then I am fine. Atleast that is what I have read
 
Shouldn't your TPS reading be 100.0 if you are WOT? Otherwise you are not running in open loop and the ECU will run rich. I'm not sure about this so you should ask a DSM Wiseman to confirm.

100% TPS is not necessary for open loop. Your Front O2 voltage is falling off for some reason, not due to being lean since you have no timing being pulled, and at .24V you would be detonating.

You should get your O2 sensor checked out. Is it still the stocker?
 
100% TPS is not necessary for open loop. Your Front O2 voltage is falling off for some reason, not due to being lean since you have no timing being pulled, and at .24V you would be detonating.

You should get your O2 sensor checked out. Is it still the stocker?

Yep. In the future though I plan on getting a Wideband. But, yes Tom, that O2 sensor is the stocker. I checked out the log myself and I was a little confused.

And just to add a little something. My gas mileage seems just fine. I haven't calculated it, but it seems like I get good/average gas mileage.
 
Log a normal drive and make sure that your front O2 sensor is cycling correctly. If so, I think that it's possible you have an exhaust leak somewhere before your O2 sensor which is sucking in air and causing you to "go lean". Check for that after verifying front O2 function.

One way to do the check is to cold start the car and around with your hand for any puffs of air. Another thing you can try is spraying the manifold/O2 housing area with PB blaster or WD40 and starting the car. If you do this, make SURE you are in a ventilated area but without too much wind. When your exhaust heats up the lubricant will burn off and create a white smoke (which you should not breathe in, it will have a distinct smell). If you have an exhaust leak, you should be able to see the smoke being magically blown away.
 
Log a normal drive and make sure that your front O2 sensor is cycling correctly. If so, I think that it's possible you have an exhaust leak somewhere before your O2 sensor which is sucking in air and causing you to "go lean". Check for that after verifying front O2 function.

One way to do the check is to cold start the car and around with your hand for any puffs of air. Another thing you can try is spraying the manifold/O2 housing area with PB blaster or WD40 and starting the car. If you do this, make SURE you are in a ventilated area but without too much wind. When your exhaust heats up the lubricant will burn off and create a white smoke (which you should not breathe in, it will have a distinct smell). If you have an exhaust leak, you should be able to see the smoke being magically blown away.

hmmm... might have to try this. And that's my fault I meant to say lean rather than rich. And how long should I log from what RPM to what RPM. How do you want me to log?

Edit: Besides the O2 sensor does my timing look alright?
 
Timing looks fine.

If you're going to just verify that the O2 is cycling, you don't have to log for too long. Just wait until you're at operating temperature and get a log for like 10 seconds or something while you're cruising at roughly constant speed. Just check your log later and make sure the O2 voltage is going up and down.
 
Timing looks fine.

If you're going to just verify that the O2 is cycling, you don't have to log for too long. Just wait until you're at operating temperature and get a log for like 10 seconds or something while you're cruising at roughly constant speed. Just check your log later and make sure the O2 voltage is going up and down.

Got it. I will post back with a new log.
 
Alright here is a new log with just the front O2 cycling (I don't really know what I am trying to look for here so help me out a little bit). It looks like it is cycling like you said, but like I said, I don't really know what I should be looking for. This was at about 2500-3000 RPM (for about 10 seconds):

Time O2 1 bank 1 O2 Trim 1 bank 1
0.11------- 0.68
0.21------- 0.78
0.31------- 0.4
0.41------- 0.7
0.51------- 0.8
0.61------- 0.84
0.71------- 0.82
0.81------- 0.82
0.9--------- 0.84
1.0--------- 0.82
1.11------- 0.78
1.21------- 0.78
1.31------- 0.74
1.41------- 0.68
1.51------- 0.58
1.61------- 0.56
1.71------- 0.44
1.81------- 0.32
1.9100---- 0.32
2.01------- 0.2
2.12------- 0.48
2.22------- 0.78
2.32------- 0.72
2.42------- 0.38
2.52------- 0.14
2.62------- 0.2
2.72------- 0.64
2.82------- 0.54
2.92------- 0.82
3.01------- 0.38
3.12------- 0.02
3.22------- 0.02
3.33------- 0.06
3.42------- 0.88
3.52------- 0.86
3.62------- 0.58
3.72------- 0.16
3.82------- 0.7
3.92------- 0.84
4.02------- 0.78
4.13------- 0.74
4.23------- 0.64
4.33------- 0.4
4.43------- 0.22
4.5299---- 0.1
4.63------- 0.5
4.73------- 0.76
4.83------- 0.56
4.93------- 0.24
5.03------- 0.1
5.14------- 0.6
5.24------- 0.76
5.34------- 0.44
5.44------- 0.12
5.54------- 0.1
5.64------- 0.52
5.73------- 0.7
5.84------- 0.38
5.93------- 0.06
6.03------- 0.1
6.14------- 0.12
6.24------- 0.36
6.34------- 0.6
6.44------- 0.54
6.54------- 0.08
6.64------- 0.08
6.74------- 0.44
6.84------- 0.16
6.94------- 0.5
7.04------- 0.76
7.15------- 0.74
7.25------- 0.62
7.34------- 0.4
7.44------- 0.56
7.54------- 0.24
7.64------- 0.2
8.02------- 0.16
8.13------- 0.72
8.23------- 0.8
8.6-------- 0.72
8.7-------- 0.8
8.8-------- 0.66
8.9-------- 0.4
9.0-------- 0.14
9.11------- 0.4
9.21------- 0.74
9.31------- 0.78
9.41------- 0.58
9.51------- 0.24
9.61------- 0.14
9.98------- 0.64
10.08------ 0.34
10.2------- 0.48
10.3------- 0.64
10.4------- 0.48
10.5------- 0.16
10.6------- 0.22
10.7------- 0.68
10.8------- 0.74
10.9------- 0.58
 
The oxygen sensor seems to be switching just fine. What you are looking for is the sensor to switch between .01-.99v .01 being lean .99 rich. During a normal cruise that looks good.
 
I wish I knew, I dont want to give misinformation only answer what I know. Looks like you are running out of fuel for some reason at high rpm.
 
Have you checked all the wires from the O2 sensor harness? One possibility would be that there is a short or drain on the system which is causing you to lose current to the sensor.

Other than that, it could be an alternator issue perhaps? Try logging voltage as well. Get some data at idle, during free-rev at a stop, and during a pull.

You aren't going lean. If you were actually going lean that fast, you would see knock (or more likely, hear it). Those voltages correspond to leaner than 14.7:1.
 
It very well could be an alternator issue. The reason I say this is because whenever I rev the lights will get brighter, the fuel pump will get louder, etc. and I believe this is an alternator issue. Correct me if I'm wrong.

So I should log voltage now? During a WOT pull? Or idle? Or both? Any other parameters?
 
As the rpm goes up the voltage will go up, that will make the lights get brighter. My fuel pump buzz will change pitch with the directionals. The charging system can be tested w/o removing the alternator. 14-14.5v is normal @ idle. I have not used my pocketlogger in years sorry.
 
I'm a 2g (like you) so we can't read knock. (except for reading timing curves and blah blah blah)

You could probably borrow my DSMLink for an afternoon if you really wanted to find out.

Lights getting brighter as you rev is actually fairly normal, but it means that you are getting more current, not less.

I was suggesting logging voltage to see if this is still occuring, and if so, what situations (load vs. no load, etc.). To that extent, another WOT log with voltage and front O2 voltage would show whether or not the O2 behavior from your first log was a fluke, as well as whether or not there is a corresponding freak-out in the ECU voltage.

A slowly-rev-at-idle log would show if this is just a RPM dependent issue (assuming you don't end up in open loop).
 
You could probably borrow my DSMLink for an afternoon if you really wanted to find out.

Lights getting brighter as you rev is actually fairly normal, but it means that you are getting more current, not less.

I was suggesting logging voltage to see if this is still occuring, and if so, what situations (load vs. no load, etc.). To that extent, another WOT log with voltage and front O2 voltage would show whether or not the O2 behavior from your first log was a fluke, as well as whether or not there is a corresponding freak-out in the ECU voltage.

A slowly-rev-at-idle log would show if this is just a RPM dependent issue (assuming you don't end up in open loop).

Awesome. I will do another log. And Tom, don't worry about the Link thing, I appreciate the offer but, I know you just got Link not too long ago and I wouldn't want to make another headache for you...
 
Awesome. I will do another log. And Tom, don't worry about the Link thing, I appreciate the offer but, I know you just got Link not too long ago and I wouldn't want to make another headache for you...

What're you talking about, I've had it for over 2 years now :p
 
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