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ebay ball joints

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Dude, they're only around $30 from online dealers. Why mess with ebay?
 
Dude, they're only around $30 from online dealers. Why mess with ebay?


Really? I have yet to fine any online dealers cheaper than ebay. Maybe I need to search harder. Can you provide a link? Thanks! :)
 
I just double checked and they're all way to expensive. Just the ball joint itself costs as much if not more than a control arm w/ ball joint on ebay.
 
http://www.frederickdodgemoparspeedshop.com/servlet/the-284/Ball-Joint-&-Lower/Detail
I bought my new lower control arms from there...
They are a Dodge dealer and all the parts are OEM Mitsu parts, not aftermarket crap. There that arm is priced at 39.99 and the charged my about 6 buck to ship to Florida.
For the upper control arm, my ball joint got fubared up there... I bought the replacement ball joint at Napa, pressed the old one out and pressed the new Napa ball joint in. The ball joint at Napa cost $15 and I pressed it in and out for free. If you dont have access to a press then a shop with a press should charge you 10-20 to do it. When I have the upper control arm off the car it took less than 5 minutes to press the old one out and the new one in.
 
Oh yha, if you lower ball joint on the lateral arm is bad.... DONT LET IT GO WITHOUT FIXING IT. THEY ARE KNOWN TO SEPERATE! Heres what happened to my car when the lower ball joint failed.

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I suppose there are some new members that didn't know ball joints separate when damaged, but that is an excellent example of how much damage can occur if you let it go.

2gAWDTalon: How much did it end up costing to fully repair that mess?
 
Well, I had a lifetime warrenty on the Central Auto Parts/Car qwest Axle, I bought a a new tie rod end for $20, a new Sway bar end link for $30 and a new Lower Control arm for $40. I cut the bottom part of the fender off and pounded the rest flat, some day I will replace it.
Mind you my car had 56K on it at the time of this incedent, want to see what ###goty ass Chrysler had to say about it?
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Funny thing is, after I fixed that I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they said the other side was way out of spec and could fail, they replaced it for free. LOL.
 

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Oh, I get it. They are responsible for wear but not failure.
 
Well, I had a lifetime warrenty on the Central Auto Parts/Car qwest Axle, I bought a a new tie rod end for $20, a new Sway bar end link for $30 and a new Lower Control arm for $40. I cut the bottom part of the fender off and pounded the rest flat, some day I will replace it.
Mind you my car had 56K on it at the time of this incedent, want to see what ###goty ass Chrysler had to say about it?
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Funny thing is, after I fixed that I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they said the other side was way out of spec and could fail, they replaced it for free. LOL.

How much simpler could it be? At the time of manufacture of the vehicle, the ball joint was an assembly sensitive component. If done incorrectly, you got excessive wear and premature failure. DCX stated you had the car in for inspection, to which they found you had no premature failure and that your car has ball joints that were installed in the manner in which they all should have been. Your car is flagged good.

Now, it's up to YOU for routine maintainence and repair. How should they be liable for your poor care??

People fail to realize that the recall is NOT a free lifetime of repair and replacement. Obviously, the only reason you got it repaired free at another dealer was that in must have been flagged for only one side in the system.
 

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How much simpler could it be? At the time of manufacture of the vehicle, the ball joint was an assembly sensitive component. If done incorrectly, you got excessive wear and premature failure. DCX stated you had the car in for inspection, to which they found you had no premature failure and that your car has ball joints that were installed in the manner in which they all should have been. Your car is flagged good.

Now, it's up to YOU for routine maintainence and repair. How should they be liable for your poor care??

People fail to realize that the recall is NOT a free lifetime of repair and replacement. Obviously, the only reason you got it repaired free at another dealer was that in must have been flagged for only one side in the system.

First of all, I was not bitching, I laughed it off and replaced it myself.
Morphius, you are wrong. They checked it when the car was pretty new with low miles, that does not put them in the clear. That just means it has not got out of spec yet. If you disagree with me please DO NOT reply to this thread because I really dont care to argue with you and even if I did this is not the place. Just go ahead and read what the NTHSA has to say about a safty recall.
The dealer that replaced them after the incedent did both sides, They gave me the drivers side one for free and marked it as replaced because the one I put in there was brand new. I still have it in my garage. Kind blows a hole in your "Flagged in the computer" thereoy huh. Even after they replace it you can still have it done again because they dont put in a revised part, they just put new lower lateral contor arm in that is subject to the same problem again. The same with the Transfer case seal, It could have been replaced in 1999 if I bring it in today and it is leaking guess what, its getting fixed under the recall.
 
First of all, I was not bitching, I laughed it off and replaced it myself.
Morphius, you are wrong. They checked it when the car was pretty new with low miles, that does not put them in the clear. That just means it has not got out of spec yet. If you disagree with me please DO NOT reply to this thread because I really dont care to argue with you and even if I did this is not the place. Just go ahead and read what the NTHSA has to say about a safty recall.
The dealer that replaced them after the incedent did both sides, They gave me the drivers side one for free and marked it as replaced because the one I put in there was brand new. I still have it in my garage. Kind blows a hole in your "Flagged in the computer" thereoy huh. Even after they replace it you can still have it done again because they dont put in a revised part, they just put new lower lateral contor arm in that is subject to the same problem again. The same with the Transfer case seal, It could have been replaced in 1999 if I bring it in today and it is leaking guess what, its getting fixed under the recall.

Please show me where on the NTHSA site is says an OEM has to do lifetime replacement.

How do you know the part is not revised? I truly find it hard to believe that NTHSA would allow an OEM to continue to put on the origional parts as a "fix".
 
http://www.frederickdodgemoparspeedshop.com/servlet/the-284/Ball-Joint-&-Lower/Detail
I bought my new lower control arms from there...
They are a Dodge dealer and all the parts are OEM Mitsu parts, not aftermarket crap. There that arm is priced at 39.99 and the charged my about 6 buck to ship to Florida.
For the upper control arm, my ball joint got fubared up there... I bought the replacement ball joint at Napa, pressed the old one out and pressed the new Napa ball joint in. The ball joint at Napa cost $15 and I pressed it in and out for free. If you dont have access to a press then a shop with a press should charge you 10-20 to do it. When I have the upper control arm off the car it took less than 5 minutes to press the old one out and the new one in.

Damn! Too bad they dont sell the upper control arms as well. Do you happen to know any other place that sells them?
 
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