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new springs

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mattspyder

15+ Year Contributor
1,046
2
Nov 2, 2004
del taco, Wisconsin
I got tokico shocks and springs right now but my car is sitting to low. I want to keep my shocks but I was wondering what springs would be good to raise it up alittle bit for a nice daily driver in the summer time... The car sits way to low right now. i scrap on every bump and its started to piss me off. Anyone got any ideas for me?
 
Well I dont know exactly but I cant put my foot under the car on the sides. I'd say its like 2.5-3 inchs from the ground to my car in the middle. I have 18" rims on right now and its so low that my back tire blew out from rubbing on the spring to much. And on the back I cant even put my hand in between the tire and wheel well.
 
Sounds very very low.
Prokits drop more than 1" btw, closer to 1.25" or slightly more in some cases.

I just installed some Prokits last week sometime and I like them. Car has an aggressive stance without being soo low as to make the car undriveable in certain parts of the city.

I'm skeptical that the H&R's have the stiff springs rates that have been posted on in this forum, but I'm sure those too, while having a 1" drop would be very nice, if not nicer.
 
Well I dont know exactly but I cant put my foot under the car on the sides. I'd say its like 2.5-3 inchs from the ground to my car in the middle. I have 18" rims on right now and its so low that my back tire blew out from rubbing on the spring to much. And on the back I cant even put my hand in between the tire and wheel well.
If your tire was rubbing the spring, you have more problems than ride height.
 
I'm with Wret. On a 2G, wouldn't you hit the control arm first?

I run the H&Rs with Koni Yellows. They are a tad bit stiffer than the Prokits, but it's much appreciated at the track. In my case, when the Konis are on full soft they match perfectly for the street. And Houston is no F1 track either, potholes and cracks everywhere.

*The H&Rs settled in around 1-1.25"
 
I'm curious: how many of you who talk about springs "settling in" actually loosened and retightened all of the suspension points when installing the new springs?

- Jtoby
 
The problem is all of the vulcanized, sleeve-rubber-sleeve bushings that you didn't touch during the install. These should all be reset for the new ride height. If you don't, then they will only reset very slowly (if at all) or rip (e.g., the upper knuckle bushing in the rear), which will cause the car to "settle" (or worse) and force you to get a new alignment.

I doubt that decent aftermarket springs (e.g., Eibach, H&R) really sag that much, as many would have you believe. I'll bet that at least 50% of this is coming from the bushings, instead.

- Jtoby
 
I see your point. Well I'm replacing all the suspension bushings here in the spring, so I'll take before and after measurements and see if they change.

Driver side front is lower than the rest of the corners and when I spoke to H&R tech support they said that's normal. Can anyone measure and compare the driver's and passenger's side front on a stock suspension setup?
 
you could always get a set of twist in spacers. That way you can raise it up for street and all you have to do for a car show is just have a rachet and extension to pop them out. Granted they aren't perfect but they work.
 
Fleet farm/ tractor supply or auto parts store should have them in the suspension aisle.
THird picture down is what I mean. they work great but racetracks don't like them because they "could" pop out. I have never heard of it happening unless you changing a tire where the spring becomes COMPLETELY unloaded but with a strut type car it wont happen.
http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/susp_drive_accessories.pdf
 
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