Lowering question

[RedEclipse17]

I got a 90 eclipse gs and i was wondering if i lowered the car around 2" would i have to tuck the wheels at all? or would it just be fine and not rub against the fender or in the wheel well...

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

What size wheels/tires are you going to be running. If you search you will find some people rub with certain combos above 17's with a drop like 2 inches . Also what ever you do you will be lowering with Shocks and springs or coilovers right ? if not the ride might not be what your looking for. Good luck.

 

[RedEclipse17]

Im running 17's and I need new struts so i figured i could get some new springs that lowered the ride. Plus it would look kinda cooler making the gap between the tires less.

 

[bjones18]

I got a 90 eclipse gs and i was wondering if i lowered the car around 2" would i have to tuck the wheels at all? or would it just be fine and not rub against the fender or in the wheel well...

You may have to adjust camber and toe. (F/R).

(on 2Gs it is definately required).

 

[tsi4ya]

would it hurt the DSM if i were to put a 1.2 drop on it?. . .is it true that it is bad for your shocks?

 

[bjones18]

would it hurt the DSM if i were to put a 1.2 drop on it?. . .is it true that it is bad for your shocks?

1. Your suspension provides wheel travel, including jounce(bump) and rebound(droop). Spring length will set ride height within this travel, thus "re-trimming" your suspension within it's range of wheel travel.

2. Lowering your car (shorter springs - generally accompanied by higher spring rates) reduces the jounce travel, and sets your car (exhaust) closer to the ground and speed bumps.

3. Your suspension geometry is designed to change as your wheel travels into jounce, for handling & stability. ex: Left-jounce and Right rebound is a cornering (roll) condition.

4. Due to the geometry change with ride height (travel), your static camber & toe must be adjusted after lowering your car. (staic geometry was "set" for a given ride height).

5. Your "standard shock valving" was developed to work with your (stock springs), wheel rate, sprung, & unsprung mass.

6. Less jounce travel increases the load input to the body during impact (pot holes).

7. Any combination of springs and dampers (shocks) will allow you to drive down the road.

8. A calibrated Ass & hands through multiple & different steering/cornering events will find the wheel rate & damping to acheive fast lap times.

9. F1 race cars had all bumps and corners programmed into their "active suspension" to improve lap times. I am pretty sure this was written out of the allowed rules.

10. The difficult part is guessing what wheel rates (spring rates) to use (buy). And what damping (shocks) will meet your needs. Autocross and daily driving will be different; therefore adjustible dampers are nice. I have Tokico 5-ways... you don't have to crawl under the car to adjust them.

 

[tsi4ya]

oh okay, so what your saying if you plan to go daily driven then its safe to get dampers and springs. . .hmmm tein sounds good to me. . .i would more than likely go with . . .Tokico Reds