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2G 2G Bad electrical draw

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Dstratt01

10+ Year Contributor
42
0
Sep 1, 2012
New Haven, Indiana
I am having one hell of a time trying to diagnose this electrical draw. Been doing it since I bought the car (about 9 months). New battery and alternator (they tested bad) and starter tested good. Pulled fuses under hood with volt meter on battery and found nothing with all fuses pulled. Gonna start in on the interior fuses but the draw is bad enough that i can watch tenths of a volt drop every few seconds. After a full charge last night I only had 2.64 volts tonight. The car is not a d.d. I am beyond stumped at this point. No clicking but the headlights are pretty dim/ flicker at low idle. Anyone with insight?
 
Best for electrical draw test would be your test light for inside fuse box. Then go out under hood at the engine fuse block and re-do that test again with a test light. When doing interior remember to pull the fuse for the door/floor lights fuse first. If the fuse box checks out all good to go then start by first unplugging the wire going to the alternator,starter and cooling fans,blower motor, etc. Basically at this point if it has an electrical connector of some sort unplug it! Unplug the E.C.U, radios, aftermarket gauges, alarm system, i.pod...disconnect those. If your unsure of how to how to use a test light for doing a draw test, P.M me and I can explain more in detail if needed. You dropped 9.96 volts overnight and there wasn't an electrical fire, that is an impressive battery draw!
 
Yeah thats why I am so stumped as to why fuses and relays arent blowing left and right while starting, driving, or just sitting. And for the test light you just go fuse to fuse, but will they still need pulled to check voltage at the battery?
 
This is how I do it. I connect the test light in a series circuit with the positive battery cable. Series circuits is an simple configuration and essential in electrical troubleshooting; the interior lighting is an example of a series circuit configuration. A flashlight is also an example of a series circuit diagram. This is why we use a test light in this case because it will do something that the multimeter cannot. Invest in a good test light because they are very nice to have around and is the best tool for electrical troubleshooting.

Since you have current draw you will notice once you attached the test light, the light will illuminate. The greater the battery draw the brighter the test light will illuminate. You pull fuses one by one watching the test light after each pull. If the test light goes off or slightly dims, then you have found a draw source.

If you run out of fuses, start pulling relays and start disconnecting what I had mentioned in my earlier post.
 
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