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hard pedal when warm, soft in the morning

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lowridin2g

20+ Year Contributor
904
2
Sep 5, 2002
Pembroke, Massachusetts
my clutch is good in the morning and hard as fawk in the afternoon or once the car is warm. gets really hard to shift too. i jusdt bled it and no air was in the lines. i recently replaced my slave and master in april of this year and the hydralic line that attaches to the slave. my last conclusion is that my throwout bnearing is not functioning right or, this................. in the pic below what is that? some type of clutch hydraulic pump? if so that couls be my problem too. can anyone tell me what thet is mounted on the front of my tranny in the pic and if it could be my prob?
 

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didnt mean to post 3 times. every tinme i try to post a pic on this site it takes like 6 years and then it says error. but it really works i guess. sorry agaiun my comp sucks i guess.
 
That's like a shock absorber for the clutch system. It's frequently removed and replaced with a single stainless steel line. This allows for a more accurate feel as to how the pedal feels. As for fixing your problem, this may or may not do it. But alot of people replace this and they like it so you may want to do the same to see if you make a difference in the way it feels.
Doug
 
Actually that is a pic of the FCU (fluid collection unit) it acts as a buffer and pools clutch fluid for smooth engagement. But in performance application has no real purpose. Here is a link to remove the FCU

FCU removal
 
Your clutch pedal is "pumping up" which is really bad. Either increase your freeplay or move the stopper at the top of the clutch pedal further back.
 
Originally posted by 98GSXHKS
Actually that is a pic of the FCU (fluid collection unit) it acts as a buffer and pools clutch fluid for smooth engagement.
And I'd still like someone to explain to me how this stupid piece of pipe is _doing_ anything. There's no air in it (supposedly, if properly bled), there's no orifices, it's nothing but a fat spot in the tubing. Hydraullically, it shouldn't do, and shouldn't be _able_ to do ANYTHING.:mad:

Anyways, RoadRace has the SS line to replace it, $20. Someone else makes one as well (it's just a piece of stainless-wrapped tubing with a banjo on one end and a threaded fitting on the other), but I don't know who.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/2gclutchlineinstructions.htm
 
Here is alittle more info,


2G Pedal "Pump Up"
If you are fighting an inconsistent pedal adjustment in a 2G, adjust the upper pedal stop adjuster so that you gain additional free play at the top of the pedal travel. If this is your problem, you will notice that the pedal suddenly gets very tight and the release point will suddenly move up a lot, this is the cause.


2Gs need free play at the top of the pedal travel. If it is close to no travel and right on the edge, then it pumps up. Only 2Gs have a relief valve in the master cylinder that needs to be uncovered so fluid can go back into the reservoir on the clutch release. If not, it gets tighter and tighter and tighter. Then it may slowly relieve the pressure and it is back to normal. Just a 2G thing. You need more free play at the top of the pedal travel.

Left unchecked, the pedal will pump up more and more. The clutch will begin to slip since it is as if you are driving around with your foot on the clutch pedal. Also it plays hell on the crankshaft thrust bearings. The constant pressure pushes the clutch release bearing onto the clutch and flywheel. When centrifugal force throws the clutch release fingers outwards, they make additional pressure on the thrust bearings of the crank. This is an additional factor in short lived crankshaft release bearings and an additional potential cause for crankwalk

This comes from the RRE site
 
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