Hello guys me, and a dsm buddie of mine have encoutered a problem on his dsm, He has bough 3 different transmissions because his mechanic told him that the transmission was out, but appearently that wasn't the case! Just today we started up the car(car has all 4 wheels raised) and we put the car in 1st gear..... AS SOON as the clutch starts to grab a little we start to hear a weird LOUD grinding noise from the center of the car(prob X-case??), so we step on the clutch pedal back in. THEN, we put the car in REVERSE and we don't hear any griding noise at all. The grinding usually accurs for some reason when the car is put in gear to move foward. Are these symptoms of a bad x-case? What can I do to make sure its my rear differential or the x-case? ANY help will be greatly appreciated!
Hello guys me, and a dsm buddie of mine have encoutered a problem on his dsm, He has bough 3 different transmissions because his mechanic told him that the transmission was out, but appearently that wasn't the case! Just today we started up the car(car has all 4 wheels raised) and we put the car in 1st gear..... AS SOON as the clutch starts to grab a little we start to hear a weird LOUD grinding noise from the center of the car(prob X-case??), so we step on the clutch pedal back in. THEN, we put the car in REVERSE and we don't hear any griding noise at all. The grinding usually accurs for some reason when the car is put in gear to move foward. Are these symptoms of a bad x-case? What can I do to make sure its my rear differential or the x-case? ANY help will be greatly appreciated!
Well, since the car is up on jack stands, disconnect the transfer case (5-bolts) and lay it on the ground attached to the driveshaft. Then you can easily rule it in or out for damage by doing the same thing as you did above. Then you are left with the transmission only. If the problems go away, then you know you need to replace the transfer case. Also, since it is disconnected, you can drain it and see what comes out of it.
____________________________
Tim Zimmer
2.3L Stroker, GT4088R, AEM EMS, etc.
Well, since the car is up on jack stands, disconnect the transfer case (5-bolts) and lay it on the ground attached to the driveshaft. Then you can easily rule it in or out for damage by doing the same thing as you did above. Then you are left with the transmission only. If the problems go away, then you know you need to replace the transfer case. Also, since it is disconnected, you can drain it and see what comes out of it.
Drain the fluids from the transfer case and see what it looks like. If theres any silver color in it then it means your transfer case is bad. If not then drains your rear diff and see what it looks like.
Considering the number of transfer case-related problems that the DSM community has had since the early 1990's, I would likely bet you have a transfer case failure on that alone. What you can check is the fluid still in the transfer case, and if there has been any leakage out of the driveshaft yoke connection to the transfer case -- the seals were always an issue with these and caused the transfer case to leak and fail prematurely. You would usually see gear oil all over the driveshaft tunnel above the transfer case if the yoke seal was leaking. Otherwise, look for wear or damage to the splines on the output shaft of the transmission that the transfer case attaches to, along with the splines on the Input shaft of the transfer case.
While you are under there, drain the rear differential and see how much gear oil comes out, and the condition of the oil.
When you come to the time to replace the gear oil in your transfer case and your rear differential, go with Redline Heavyweight Shock Proof Gear Oil (RED) -- it has been a proven favorite in these cars to handle the shockload without degrading over time and abuse.
Has your car been to a dealership to have the transfer case recall done to it? The transfer cases were a recallable item for a while, because if it failed prematurely, it would lock up the transfer case, and pretty much put you in a really sticky situation -- especially if you were doing freeway speeds when it locks up.
Good luck,
____________________________
Tim Zimmer
2.3L Stroker, GT4088R, AEM EMS, etc.
If you pulled the tc out, check the spindal that would attache to the trans both ways, feel it out and see if there is a lot of play. Also, if it doesn't rotate, thats an issue.
The fluid color may or may not help. Mine wasn't silver, but was not functioning correctly.
There is also a plate on the top side I beleive that you can inspect the gears to check for damgage or chipping.
part #3 http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/v/vsp...MD758205-2.gif
Found this while looking for the image, could be useful as well
This is what happened, my buddies wheels would lock up sometimes, so he took it to a "MECHANIC". The mechanic told him it was the transmission that was bad, my friend ended up buying about 3 OF THEM. He took his car home and there I installed the last transmission he bought. After we were done I checked the rear seal of the case (WHICH BY THE WAY WAS REALLY BAD)because underneath the frame there was oil all over... The seal on the case was bad and made a huge leak without my friend ever noticing anything(which cause the gears to grind maybe). I really don't know if the dealer can do it because I took the seal out and put rvt on the outside and installed it back in place. time to look for a t-case guys...
Bad Center Diff? OR TRANSFER CASE????
