warped clutch disk?

[1stGenRocks]

ok i have a 95 tsi awd with act2600 and act streetlite flywheel.

Having problems with my disengagement. It'll work fine for awhile I can set the disengagement up to halfway up the pedal if I turn the master rod out far enough. but after I drive for awhile if im shifting a bunch it will just start to drag and not disengage. Pedal still feels the same.

so far I've changed the master and slave, extended the slave cylinder rod, I have a ss clutch hose and I've eliminated the accumulator. I've also vacuum bleed it numerous times and backed out the cruise control switch on the pedal assembly the whole way to get as much travel as possible out of the clutch pedal.

Usually when it stops working if I let it sit for a little while it works fine again. Im planning to measure the travel at the clutch fork the next time it does it to see if I'm still getting full travel or not. Friend of mine thinks I might have warped the clutch disc.

Anybody else have any ideas? Oh and it is a 6 bolt swap so don't say crankwalk. It's really bugging me since everything else on the car is finally working and it runs like a champ except this clutch problem

 

[1stGenRocks]

Well I guess I don't need to worry about this anymore until I get the trans out. I was driving the other day and it decided to completly stop engaging. So i'm guessing I broke the disc somehow. We'll see once I get it towed down to the shop and pull the trans. PTT twin disc and a totally empty wallet here I come...

 

[Highwayrun]

--The following solution is still being evaluated by me, so attempt it at your own risk!--

1) Thread master cylinder rod all the way INTO the pedal;
2) Using a screwdriver, pry off the small rubber plug on the pedal that the cruise control switch presses on;
3) Cut a small, square, thin sheet of aluminum (approx .20" x .20" x .020" thk) and affix it to a piece of aluminum duct tape;
4) Stick the assembly from step 3 to the pedal so the aluminum square covers the hole from the rubber plug;
5) Thread the master cylinder rod back out. The pedal will now have extra travel.

Note = Instead of steps 3 & 4, you could also remove the cruise control switch completely. Again, try this at your own risk. (You'll still be able to disengage the cruise control with the brake, steering wheel mounted switch, and the dash mounted switch. However, what will happen when you forget to use one of those methods, I do not know.)

To get even more travel from the master cylinder, you could also thread the clutch switch out. The clutch switch sits near the firewall. (I haven't evaluated this option as yet, since I'm still evaluating the first one, and it doesn't seem necessary for my case. Try it at your own risk.)

 

[RipperXX]

Can't that break a fork?

 

[1stGenRocks]

i found the problem. after about 2 weeks of randomly acting up it decided to not engage at all. pulled the trans and the clutch hub is broken out of the disc.