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not disengaging

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dsm1

Probationary Member
19
0
Dec 17, 2002
Tempe, Arizona
90 FWD, 2600, mits disc, napa TO bearing( i know, i know).......
I'm not sure if its my clutch/flywheel doing it but I'm not getting full diengagement even with no floormat in the way and the pedal mashed into the carpet, kinda makes shifting difficult.:barf: The 2600 has only been in for two top-ends (8000 miles or so), so its not worn out yet.
Now my trans makes a nasty noise in nuetral and while moving in any gear. It almost sounds like a TO bearing but doesnt change when I stab the clutch. Hoping its not tranny's main bearings but kinda expecting the worst.:cry: Please, help a brother in need!!!
P.S.. I hate trannies!
 
Seems like you just need to adjust your clutch master cylinder. It is located near the clutch pedal, just cram your way up there. Be careful, just turn the bolt out just a tad bit and check to see if that makes a difference. That should solve your problem. Hopefully it helps.
 
Its already adjusted to the maximum amount, still not full disengagement. Damn, I'm gonna kill my tranny if this crap keeps up!
 
It could be the pivot ball and clutch fork are worn down. To check it, look at where the fork comes out of the trans. It comes out of a square hole. If it's good, the fork will be right in the middle of the square hole. If the pivot ball is worn down the fork will be pushed closer to the passenger side. You can unscrew the pivot ball and put a washer under it to raise the clutch engagement height. I think you have to drop the trans to do this. I never tried it with the trans on the car.
 
Ok, i've been through this problem time and time again and it sux getting the reply of everyone telling you the obvious of check your adjustment, space the pivot ball out, the fork is worn, when 90% of the time buying a new fork, slave, etc will not actually fix your problem unless you can visual see a problem w/ them. For starters, did you have the flywheel cut? Did you have it cut to spec? You say you've put on about 8k miles, have you had problems the whole time? Have you checked to make sure that both your master cylinder and slave are not leaking? If they're not visually leaking they should be fine so dont go out and waste the $200 for the slave and master if they are not leaking. Im sure you've already been informed to check to see if the pedal has freeplay @ the top of its travel, if you haven't check it, pedal assembly may be worn out. IF all the obvious are all good what i ended up doing was putting a flywheel shim bewteen the crank and flywheel and stareted w/ a diff flywheel and all problems seem to have been abolished. So check all the obvious. If its not any of the above you might wanna try using a diff flywheel and then shim it out. On my 90 i had disengagment problems but the master cylinder was visual leaking and that was my cause of problem.
Nick
 
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