The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

tranny and transfer case removal

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

o0ohaviko0o

15+ Year Contributor
34
0
May 30, 2004
Houston, Texas
my tranny got messed up and i bought a used one. can someone post a site where it shower how to remove. 23 spline awd tranny on a 93 awd talon.
 
well havik i don't have the site for you but i can tell you how to do it as i am in the process of removing mine as we speak in my tsi......

first thing i would do is start removing the items that are in your way under the hood...............ie battery.....upper intercooler pipe..... air intake pipe etc....

wiring harness..... disconnect anything that looks like it will be in your way ...ie the sensor connectors on the thermostat housing.....make sure all the wires are all tucked out of the way.... but be sure not to break the wires.....i am pretty sure they will be brittle and can break quite easily if not handled properly......

next thing i would remove is the shifter linkage on the transmission....first remove the little cotter pins holding them on in front of the bushings....

next look at the bracket for the linkage......there should be 3 bolts....BUT you only need to remove the bottom two....they are 12mm guaranteed..... then tuck that out of the way usually get it to go a lil behind the intake mainifold..but get the wiring out of the way before you pull them up so you don't damage the wires to the coolant temp sensor.....

now get the car up on some jackstands if you havn't already done so.......the best place to put them is right on the subframes ........(try to get them as close to the front as possible) .....use your jack on the pinch welds to put the car up so it leaves you enough room to put the stands under safely ....... use those sub frames for the jack stands

next thing would be to remove the two bolts to your downpipe...mine were 20mm but they could vary........

let it sit our of the way the radiator core support seems to hold it up nicely out of the way.....

next look at your transfer case.....i don't usually drain it first i just take out the 6 bolts and slide it off....but some people like to drain the transfer case which can be done...by removing the bottom plug....(really big looking bolt head....i believe it is a 24 mm bolt a oil drain pan should work nicely..... might as well pull out the drain plug on the transmission as well while your at it...so by the time your ready to pull out the axles it will be somewhat empty.....it is also a big headed bolt and its a 24 mm also if my memory serves me correct.....

remove the six bolts to the transfer case....there is one bottom bolt that you will need to push the downpipe up to fully get at unless you use a wrench ......17mm for all six bolts....(note feel your hand around on top of the case and you will find the bolts 3 on top 3 on bottom....

slide the transfer case out.... you might need to pry it a bit...because it sits on a pin looking spline that the transfer case slides into.....shouldn't be too much of a problem to remove......one you get it free bring it down slowly and try to hold it with one hand and gently slide the drive shaft out and place it on the ground try not too let it fall....shouldn't hurt it if it does but you never know.....i like to use a jack stand to hold the driveshaft up so its not on the ground collecting dirt on the splines....

next you can pull off the wheels....once done it is time to remove the big cotter pins located right in front of the axle nut ( can't miss it) pull them out they can be difficult at times but you shouldn't have too much of a problem.....

next is where an impact gun comes in handy....but if your like some who don't have one all you need to do is have someone apply the brake firmly and use a breaker bar to remove the axle nuts.....once you got them off....it time to remove the ball joint nuts.......

now get under the car and look from the back side of the wheel well and you should be able to see it.....19mm nut for both sides...... if you get to a point while removing them that you can't get the wrench on them then pry down on the control arm with a pry bar to get a lil extra access.......

once they are off.... it pays to have a ball joint splitter here...but a sledge should work....if using the sledge hammer give some nice accurate blows to the fron of the control arm and the ball joint should pop out........

use a pry bar to bring the control arm down......and pull the spindle away from the ball joint stud.....

once done for both sides... you can remove the axles.....pull the spindle back and slide them out of the spindle.....then make sure your transmission is in neutral so they come out easy.......don't forget about the caiiier bearing bolted to the block for the driver side axle.....two 14mm bolts and its out ...........a small pry bar can help to remove the axles from the transmission itself

this should get you on your way........i will post the rest as soon as i get a little more time.... two things i forgot to mention.....that your need to remove the crossmember and the right side control arm brace....once you look underneath you will know exactly what i am talking about just follow it back and you can't miss it.......hope this helps you :thumb:
 
Ill give my 2 cents to help out. If you have access to a engine hoist and some rope, its easier to remove the transmission and to put it back in with the hoist then with a jack or straight brute force. When you use a hoist, it allows you to turn the transmission in any direction you need to get it back in place. Easily done by one person. Just make sure you know how to tie a knot.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2g Talon drivers side airbag
    Drivers side 95-98 Talon airbag. Excellent condition. Can ship UPS ground. Message...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 2g 2g Talon tail lights.
    Pair of 2g OEM Talon tails. Decent condition. Not show quality. Right has a section on bottom...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted [WTB] Hyundai 4g63 inner valve cover bolts
    Looking to source inner valve cover bolts for a Hyundai 4g63 valve cover
    • TheDude236
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g VRSF 2g FMIC.
    Bar and plate. 28x10x3.75. 2.5 inlet and outlet. 36.5 on center inlet and outlet Pretty...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 2g Eclipse/Talon Passenger Side Fenders
    95-99 Eclipse/Talon Passenger Side Fenders
    • Sdcryan1
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top