clutch problem slowboy 3500

[Spike3099]

hello, I fixed alot of kinks I had to change the master and slave cylinder, clutch was fine for a day but now it picks up at the top right at the top actually used to be at the buttom I have adjusted that rod clockwise alot of times and it has not moved. any ideas as to what it might be? also I know the 3500 is only 2500 pounds but if i shift hard engine shackes alot you think I should get polyurethane mounts? thanks

 

[Spike3099]

I think I know my problem, I know alot of 1g if they put a high pressure plate on there car they have to change th slave rod. Do you have to do that on the 2g? because I have a new clutch, flywheel, braided line, new slave and master and my car was fine it engane at the end but now its at the top and I moved th rod till it fell off . do you think I have to change the slave rod?

 

[red91gst]

There are a few things that can affect clutch disengagment points on all dsms. The easiests (band-aid) for this is a longer slave cylinder rod or a washer under the pivot ball, however the point can best be adjusted under the dash at the assembly. Give me a call and I'll be glad to help you out, 724.349.8417 ext 18.

Also, check out www.taboospeedshop.com for a nice technical writeup on the DSM clutch system and adjustment.

Nate
Slowboy Racing

 

[Spike3099]

thank you, I will i tried everything my next step is the rod from taboo.

 

[titogs95]

I am thinking about doing the same thing!
But where can I get a longer slave rod? (1/4")??

 

[Turningturbo25]

thank you, I will i tried everything my next step is the rod from taboo.

Dont waste your money, taboo is MIA he hasnt sent out parts in over 7 months. He will take your money and run. I made a rod its easy as hell. My is adjustable but if i where you i would just go to the hardware store find a hardend bolt of the same diameter and a little bet longer lenth cut of the top of the bolt and round it over. Wala you have a 2 dollar rod

 

[The Foos]

A longer slave cylinder rod is the easiest solution, but not the best by any means. If you have lost stroke for some reason, short of getting a new and beefier clutch fork, the best fix is shimming out the clutch fork fulcrum.

It isn't the easiest solution, but it stands the best chance of maintaining good geometry. That's my 2 cents.

Scott

 

[titogs95]

Well my biggest worry about put a long slave rod (1/4" longer) is: It will make the engagement short, that is good. But what happens when I release the clutch, Isn't the rod going to be long enough that might leave the clutch engaged even thought the pedal is all the way out? so, it will be burning my clutch

My other question is even thought if I install the rod DO I NEED to adjust the pedal from inside of the car?

If I have I worn pedal will affect the engagement position?

 

[titogs95]

Well my biggest worry about put a long slave rod (1/4" longer) is: It will make the engagement short, that is good. But what happens when I release the clutch, Isn't the rod going to be long enough that might leave the clutch engaged even thought the pedal is all the way out? so, it will be burning my clutch

My other question is even thought if I install the rod DO I NEED to adjust the pedal from inside of the car?

If I have I worn pedal will affect the engagement position?

Well Nobody answered the question and I think I found out the answer!
Well seem that my clutch is slippering already in Third and sometimes in Second gear
I am normally cruising and I want to be at WOT but before that happens My RPM get stock in 40K for a couple of seconds then the car engage and the bullet kick in ( I have full boost and no boost leak). after all that happen I smell the clutch .
I am so mad because I think I should-ed not buy the 1/4 " slave rod and I should-ed get under the#$%^$ dash and spend all my day trying to adjust the high of the clutch. Now I have to pay for it, Another clutch Disk!

Also I don't know if the pedal Assembly has something to do with it. I just want a normal setup without adjusting to many stuffs!

SO I am planning to get another Disk, Maybe a clutch assembly and at the same time Adjust the pedal under the dash. I hope that help me!!!

What do you think? BTW I don't think it is related to the SBR Clutch at all!!

Well later, Tito

 

[Justins99GSX]

i bought the same clutch for my 99 gsx and love it..... i did notice the shake at the beginning but break it in....it goes away... i was thinkin about changing mounts too, at first, but i beared with it and now i am glad i didn't (don't want the shake inside the car).....good luck and stick with it, its a awesome

Justin

 

[DNTBLNK]

Why did you put in a 3500 pound pressure plate?

 

[liquordrunk]

Well my biggest worry about put a long slave rod (1/4" longer) is: It will make the engagement short, that is good. But what happens when I release the clutch, Isn't the rod going to be long enough that might leave the clutch engaged even thought the pedal is all the way out? so, it will be burning my clutch

My other question is even thought if I install the rod DO I NEED to adjust the pedal from inside of the car?

If I have I worn pedal will affect the engagement position?

When we put my buddies shep tranny in we were having engagement problems and shep said not to extend the slave rod! that it was a bad idea.. our problem was we jsut needed to break in hte new throwout bearing by shifting through the gear while it was running and now it is fine

 

[titogs95]

Yeah but still have clutch problem , Now I swapped the stock slave rod and the clutch won't disengage until the end of the floor. shift horrible. I can't shift as usual! (with th 1/4 " rod). I don't feel any pression at all on the pedal. I know the system is fine. no air on it.
But at least I can step on the gas and handle in some how better than before.

BTW the reason why I bought th SBR 3500 is because I didn't want to deal with the ACT problems!

 

[Justins99GSX]

Why did you put in a 3500 pound pressure plate?

its not a 3500 pound pressure plate its more like 2500 3500 is just their name for their clutch