Sign of a bad clutch?

[cucumber]

I think my clutch is about done. I was out for some spirited driving, and when I shifted quick into second the clutch didn't grab...and REV...then finally grabbed. I think it was the clutch. Does anyone have any ideas what this might be? Clutch replacement recommendations?

 

[boostineklipz]

yeah, you have a slipping clutch...go get a ACT clutch!!!

 

[cucumber]

Originally posted by boostineklipz
yeah, you have a slipping clutch...go get a ACT clutch!!!

Yeah, I am. I'm doing a timing belt change this week, and will probably go ahead and get the ACT 2600...

 

[boostineklipz]

good decisions!!!

 

[cucumber]

Originally posted by boostineklipz
good decisions!!!

Thank you!

 

[AW4G63]

Its almost time for me to get a clutch.

 

[red91tsiawd]

i just ordered my act 2600 clutch, so much for the bigger fmic

 

[Rob]

Whats the deal i keep hearing about geting crank walk with the 2600???
Is this true and if it is should i go with the 2100? im needing a clutch soon =0(

 

[mavisky]

most fwd'ers will never outdue a 2100. you it'll take alot of power to spin a 2100 in the higher gears and you obviously can't stress it on the launch like an awd can. also the pedal pressure is closer to stock and engages slower. should allow for easier slipping off the line and a smaller learning curve between the two clutches.

 

[cowan]

I have the same problem -- clutch slipping. I can't believe how much labor is to put a clutch in my car. I got two quotes of 600 dollars and one of 461.00. Does this sound about right? What causes the AWD to be so much more labor than the FWD?

 

[Rob]

thats about right on an all weel drive on my brothers 3000gt VR4
He payed 1,000 and that was someone he knew.
i payed 700 something with a stock clutch put back in there parts and all.
Your going to have to pay alot theres alot involved in geting the clutch out and i beleave its anything like the 3000 you have to drop the suspension im not sure but i know you have to drop our engine a bit to get the clutch out

 

[mavisky]

Originally posted by cowan
I have the same problem -- clutch slipping. I can't believe how much labor is to put a clutch in my car. I got two quotes of 600 dollars and one of 461.00. Does this sound about right? What causes the AWD to be so much more labor than the FWD?

two words - transfer case.

the awd cars are a #@%#@%#@%#@%#@% to work on. not only do you have to dro pthe tranfer case off, you also have to remve the passenger side chassis brace.

 

[90GSX]

Originally posted by mavisky


two words - transfer case.

the awd cars are a #@%#@%#@%#@%#@% to work on. not only do you have to dro pthe tranfer case off, you also have to remve the passenger side chassis brace.

T-case is just 5 bolts; 2 minutes with an airgun. Though you do have to remove the DP to access the bolts, so add another 2 minutes with the afore mentioned airgun to remove the DP. T-Case removal shouldn't take more than 5 minutes, as long as the DP comes apart easily.

They're not that much harder than the FWD's. I've pulled trannies in FWD's and AWD's (as well as a RWD truck, that WAS a Biatch!)

After you do it a few times it becomes a very simple list of parts to unbolt. I have tranny removal down to about 30 minutes on my garage floor, but I won't be satisfied until I can round-trip it on the trailer in under 1 hour!

 

[Rob]

so do you guys recomend me to go with the 2100 act clutch .....i dont want crank walk on the 2600 and i only plan on 350 hp with the a T28 so im not haveing crazzy hp with this turbo be enough ?

 

[boost]

Buy a clutch masters clutch, alot easier on the crank and your foot.

 

[Rob]

yeah but do they hold up on an AWD and with 350 hp ?

 

[boost]

Ive got a stage 4 and it will good enough that if I wanted to grenade my trans I could.

 

[cucumber]

Originally posted by mavisky
most fwd'ers will never outdue a 2100. you it'll take alot of power to spin a 2100 in the higher gears and you obviously can't stress it on the launch like an awd can. also the pedal pressure is closer to stock and engages slower. should allow for easier slipping off the line and a smaller learning curve between the two clutches.

Kyle, do you have the 2100?

I was thinking of going with the 2600, but RRE has that little table saying it is more likely to cause crankwalk.

I plan on making some big power, will the 2100 be substantial for my needs? I don't want to get a 2100 then HAVE to upgrade to a 2600 because the 2100 just wasn't enough.

Please enlighten me.

 

[mavisky]

personally i have a 5 puck from www.capclutch.com . i've known a few guys with a 2100 that are around the 20g hp level with no major issues yet. the more you launch the car the more it'll damamage it since a good fwd launch will have you slipping the clutch almost all the way through first and into 2nd. the 2100 in that situation will need some time to cool down between passes. but you shouldn't have any issues in the higher gears.

 

[cucumber]

Originally posted by mavisky
personally i have a 5 puck from www.capclutch.com . i've known a few guys with a 2100 that are around the 20g hp level with no major issues yet. the more you launch the car the more it'll damamage it since a good fwd launch will have you slipping the clutch almost all the way through first and into 2nd. the 2100 in that situation will need some time to cool down between passes. but you shouldn't have any issues in the higher gears.

Yeah, Kyle, but I'm going down the 1320 almost all the time now. I think I need a 2600.

 

[CyberDSM]

Hey guys, don't mean to invade this post but I have a sort of similar problem and I just wanted to make sure it was the clutch. What happens is usually around 4th or 5th at about 3500, when I floor it, my engine kind of struggles, the revs go up a lil then drop while I still have it floored. Its intermittent and like i said only happens around 4th or 5th. If it is my clutch slippin, can I hold out on getting it replaced for a while if I don't abuse the clutch?

 

[J4Y5iN]

My clutch has been slipping for three months now... I'm a true broke @$$... If you just baby it, it should be fine. You'll notice your higher gears going out long before you slip in first or even second.

 

[Irks]

I have the same problem. It was getting really bad for a while, slipping in 3rd-5th any time boost was over 5psi. Now it can take it if I ease into WOT. Mabye it self adjusted? who knows... my 2100 is in the mail though. I went for a 2100 cryo-treated from http://www.ffwdconnection.com . Should be best of both worlds, as long as I don't drop it in over 5k.

 

[RetardedAWD]

Originally posted by Irks
I have the same problem. It was getting really bad for a while, slipping in 3rd-5th any time boost was over 5psi. Now it can take it if I ease into WOT. Mabye it self adjusted? who knows... my 2100 is in the mail though. I went for a 2100 cryo-treated from http://www.ffwdconnection.com . Should be best of both worlds, as long as I don't drop it in over 5k.

I just ordered one yesterday.. I had a BRAND NEW(well about 2k on it) stock clutch in my 96 and when it comes on boost in 1st 2nd etc...etc...
it friggin smoked the clutch.. it sucks not being able to accelerate... stupid glazed awd clutch. Its going to be nice to be able to hold boost in third and fourth gear..
Its going to feel like a new car!

 

[mavisky]

Originally posted by cucumber


Yeah, Kyle, but I'm going down the 1320 almost all the time now. I think I need a 2600.

actually i just eclipsed the 279 lb/ft barrier on my clutch so i'm sol right now til i find another that can hold the power.