will not go into gear

[ross41]

The master cyl. and slave cyl. are new and I've bled the clutch system. I've tried putting a small socket in between the slave cyl. rod and the fork. I've got the master cyl. adjustment rod above the accelerator maxed out. I'm thinking it's something to do w/ the throw out bearing. The problem started out by just grinding if I shifted normal, but would not grind if I babied it or slowly shifted. Then the clutch slipped quite a bit at a stop light and now it will not go into gear. I can start the car in gear and it kinda moves a little like it's partially engaged, but I can then let out on the clutch pedal and the car engages fine. Thanks for all your help!

 

[Race94]

I also foolishly replaced my slave and master cylinder, try this, start the car in first gear, be careful it will go foward so have your other foot on the brake, after it's moving shift into 2nd gear, if it shifts your clutch is prob. gone.

 

[ross41]

I've tried shifting after starting it in 1st and it doesn't work.

 

[Race94]

probably the clutch is done for or the TOB is bad, either way you need to look at the clutch to check it out.

 

[GSXTBOY]

I had the same problem and I just dropped the tranny. My clutch engaged off the floor before but all of a sudden I lost about 2" of pedal pressure.

So I replaced the master and slave and that did nothing, dropped the tranny and everything looks fine, Ill prolly replace the ball and fork because its stock and has about 200k on it so might as well.

BUT Im thining it is the pedal assembly. You guys should push your clutch to the floor and let off it then grab it with your hand and if it pulls up then that could be your problem.

I will see when i rip it out sometime next week. GGGRRRR

 

[ross41]

When I let off the clutch pedal, it returns fast and hard. I can feel it come right back at my foot w/ pressure. Is that bad? Where do you get a new fork and ball?


I put a lockwasher and a regular washer behind the pivot ball and now the car shifts but grinds/knocks in first, second and reverse. If I slowly shift, it doesn't grind though. So I'm going to put another washer or two on and see what that does. Is there any way the ACT 2100 disc could be on backwards or the O.E.M. throw-out bearing could be on backwards or broken?

 

[GSXTBOY]

I wouldnt put anymore than 1 washer on there because then your just putting constant pressure on the pressure plate and thats not good.

Its either your master, slave, fork, ball, clutch pedal assembly. Narrow it down from there.

 

[ross41]

The pedal assembly doesn't seem to be loose or anything. How do you tell if it's gone bad?

 

[GSXTBOY]

I already told you how... Push the clutch down normally to the ground, then let it back up. Grab the pedal and if you can pull it up anymore, then that could be your problem. If you cant pull it up then it should be ok. I got that info from other people, I have not proven that to be true yet becuase I havent taken out my assembly yet but that is the only option I have left.

 

[GSTicky04]

Does the clutch pedal stick to the floor? Does it leak fluid? Well I recently bought a slave cylinder when my clutch stuck to floor and it would not go into gear while car is on cuz it wouldnt read it. Mine wasn't bad and was leaking fluid. I thought it was the slave cylinder but it wasnt it did nothing, and leaked when bleed. We looked at the line from the slave cylinder (its real thin, metal) well anyway check that as well if its leaking since that could be shot, and if its not bad just 'flare' it. That's what I did and it solved the problem.

 

[1990gsx4me]

im having the same problem right now. its definietly not the master cylinder...that is the problem with it being stuck to the floor, and if you can shift into gears fine with the car shut off than its not the forks. prolly the slave or tob. problem is unless you do it yourself a shop will say its the clutch and charge u 650 dollars easily. THAT SUX

 

[GSXTBOY]

Heres some info on the pedal assembly

http://home.cogeco.ca/~djeclipse/ClutchPedal_VFAQ.html

 

[irish_love]

I'm having the same problem. When the car is off, I can put it into gear with no problem. Once I start the car it will not go into gear. I used the clutch adjustment found here. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/njdsm2/clutch.html That seemed to work. I started the car, put it into gear with no problem. Left the clutch in, shifted to a few other gears..no problem. I put it into nuetral...and hear a wierd vibration. I press the clutch again and tried to put it in to gear and couldn't. So I got under the dash and adjusted some more. Same thing happens again. I tried one last time and it happened again. I have a new master cylinder. Should I keep try to adjust it till I can't adjust it anymore, or do you guys think something else could be wrong. I was able to drive a little...just backed up and pulled forward, but never fully released the clutch. Once I fully release the clutch it acts like I never adjusted it.

Any thoughts or answer would be great. Thanks...

Mike

 

[ross41]

I ordered a stainless steel clutch line and new fork and ball. I'm going to try that this weekend. I found out that the guy who had it before me had the flywheel resurfaced when he swapped engines and again when he put in the ACT 2100. So if this stuff doesn't work I'm going to try an extended slave cyl. rod and if that doesn't work I'm going to shim the flywheel or buy a new flywheel. Has anyone ever shimmed the flywheel (as in put a shim behind the flywheel on the crank side)?

 

[GSXTBOY]

You both probably have worn out pedal assemblies... you can try all the things you mentioned... I wouldnt shim the flywheel but thats just me.

Try a new fork, ball, slave, master and clutch line and then if those dont help get ready to dig up the dash.

I did it a week ago this weekend I will be reinstalling the assembly... but then I have to put the tranny back in so it will be a couple weeks.

 

[oldman]

I have the same exact problem. I've already tried MC, SC, sc longer push rod, adjusting mc push rod, no help. My problem problem started after install of act2600 and act flywheel about 4k ago. I'm in the middle of removing the pedal assembly from under the dash, not easy.... any ideas on how to wiggle that thing out? I will let you guys know if that solves the problem. Have anyone spoke to Act? I bought the kit from prostreet and have a local shop install it. The shop said it's a defective TOB but will charge me more money to check it b/c I didn't buy the parts from them. Hope I don't have to pull my tranny.

 

[irish_love]

Well..I figured I might as well try throwing in a new clutch. So tonight my mech and me pull the tranny out, and sure enough my clutch had a piece broke off and a spring just hanging out. While I have the tranny off, I'll replace the flywheel too. I'm also looking at replacing the syncros while it's out. Should I just by the OEM syncros?

 

[oldman]

I have the same exact problem. I've already tried MC, SC, sc longer push rod, adjusting mc push rod, no help. My problem problem started after install of act2600 and act flywheel about 4k ago. I'm in the middle of removing the pedal assembly from under the dash, not easy.... any ideas on how to wiggle that thing out? I will let you guys know if that solves the problem. Have anyone spoke to Act? I bought the kit from prostreet and have a local shop install it. The shop said it's a defective TOB but will charge me more money to check it b/c I didn't buy the parts from them. Hope I don't have to pull my tranny.

Update:
After welding the clutch pedal assembly, all is well. A lot of work but well worth the time. :laugh:

 

[ross41]

I put in the new fork and ball and a new flywheel. The problem is better but still knocks/grinds a little when shifting. I have to shift gently to get it not to grind. My M.C. rod is all the way out and if I turn it in at all, the problem gets worse. I don't understand how welding the C-thing to the rod helps because the rod is only so long.

 

[oldman]

ROSS41, did you do what GSXTBOY suggested and check for play on the pedal assembly? If so, what was the result? Focus on that point, I really think that's the problem because I've gone throught almost exactly what you're going throught.

 

[ross41]

For future viewers of this post: After trying reman flywheel, new pressure plate, new clutch disc, new TOB, new fork and pivot ball, shimming the pivot ball, different transmission, new slave cylinder, different master cylinder, stainless steel clutch line (Not in that order), I welded the clutch pedal assembly and wahlah! It shifts! yea! Good tip for welding it is make sure the dark grey lever is in the correct position, as in if you look at the assembly from the same view as if it were in the car, make sure that dark grey lever is pulled back towards yourself rather than welding it foward towards the front of the car. I forgot to check this so I now have to max out the threads on my master cylinder adjustment rod.

 

[oldman]

It's about time. Glad you got it resolved but sucks that you welded it in the wrong position, kinda defeats the whole purpose, I would suggest picking up another and do it right. Excessive adjustment on the mc will facilitate the death of your slave cylinder. Anyone who is doing this project, make sure you pull the pedal back up, you will hear a snap, so that the clutch pedal is completely leveled with the brake pedal before welding. Thanks for the update.