Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit question

[nazthug]

Mine is leaking inside the cabin

I just went to pepboys and got a reybesto master rebuild kit

It was only like $9 though, wtf?

But it looks complete

Part number cmk1271

just a simple rod with a slot in it, rubber bushings at both ends, a spring, a clip and a rubber boot

thats all i need?

 

[Colossus]

As far as I know yeah it's pretty simple. But, the entire thing sells for like $80 from the dealer

 

[nazthug]

the same part at autozone was $20

so maybe i just got lucky

cool, will do it tomorow and see if stops leaking, and gets me better pedal pressure and easier shifting

 

[2GeNTSi]

After looking through these directions: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/masterc.htm it seems simple enough, just tight space to work in. On my car, it's leaking in the cabin from the boot, not much though. I'm planning to buy a rebuild kit on my next pay check, I'm glad it won't cost much.

 

[peanotation]

why don't you just buy a brand new one from NOPI Online? it comes out to like $30 i think, and nothing beats a nice new master cylinder

 

[azkikr10]

a new one is the way to go. i just replaced mine a week ago along with a ss clutch line. the difference is amazing. but then again, mine was leaking for over 6 months

 

[GRNDSM]

I have tried $30 rebuild kit from the dealer, back in ‘01 which failed with–in a week. But since then, I have been using a new $40 unit from Advance Auto without any problems.

 

[RayH]

While you have the master apart, it's also a good time to disassemble and clean out the slave even if you're not rebuilding it. Alot of crud collects in there that can not be flushed by just bleeding.

 

[2GeNTSi]

hmmm maybe I'll try dissambling the slave too, I don't want to do this now cause I still need my car to go to school. I'm off after this week so it shouldn't be a problem once I start doing this stuff.

 

[Waredtalontsi]

Just buy both of them new at nopi. I bought both of them for a little over 60 bucks, and Iam not talking about the rebuild kits it was a whole new slave cyl, and a new master cyl. That way you dont have to worry about an other rebuild down the road.

 

[jfdid]

If you have the time, take apart your cylinders before you buy anything. Check the walls of the cylinder for damage, scuffing, or roughness. If you find any, just get a new cylinder as this damage will wreck a rebuild kit in no time. If the walls are smooth, a $9 rebuild kit is a cheap way to get back up and running.

 

[crazyboost]

So i found out that the culprit of my late clutch troubles is a leaking master cylinder. Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding or replacing it with a new one? i'm pretty much just seeing if the rebuild will be sufficient because it will save me $50. Any links on a guide or how to about replacing it on a 1g would also be nice. Thanks

 

[No_Skillz]

http://www.prostreetonline.com/oem/...WD-001&category=I&part=Clutch+Master+Cylinder

PBR has a great price if you don't have cash to throw around. At first I thought they made cheap pep-boys brand stuff but prostreet has convinced me otherwise.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

or mitsubishiparts.com

 

[crazyboost]

i think im gonna try to rebuild them on monday, the kit was only $19 so if that doesn't work its not really that much of a loss.

 

[No_Skillz]

Write up a tech guide w/ pictures!

 

[crazyboost]

So i rebuilt both my master and slave cylinders, i put them back on the car, and prepared to bleed them. So I filled up the resevoir with brake fluid, found someone to pump the pedal for me. I had him push the pedal down while i cracked the bleeder valve (which had a vacuum hose over the nipple going to a bottle with more brake fluid) then when the pedal was to the floor i tightened the valve and he lifted the pedal off the floor with his hand. We did this probalby about 20 times but nothing happened. There were a few air bubbles that rose to the top of the reservoir but the level didn't seem to go down at all. Does anyone know what i might be doing wrong? I want to get this figured out so i can go test out my new fmic setup. THanks

 

[No_Skillz]

I just did this yesterday and had a similar problem. Mine turned out to be my master slave cylinder adjustment rod. When I threaded the rod back on the pedal, I did so too much. I backed the rod out of the pedal and everything worked fine.

 

[crazyboost]

ill try that and see if it fixes it. Thanks no skillz

 

[Quasimondo]

Buy new. At least it'll be under warranty if it goes again.

 

[crazyboost]

So i backed out the adjustment rod a little and it started to bleed. I got it so no more air came out of the vacuum hose which went from the bleeder valve to my bottle with brake fluid, i did it a few more times until i saw nice clean brake fluid coming out. and then tightened the bleeder valve and removed the vacuum hose. THe pedal feel isn't quite as stiff as id like it to be. Its still a little mushy and the pedal won't come all the way up. Is this because i have to do something with the slave cylinder? Do i have to bleed that too? How do i do that? thanks

 

[crazyboost]

so i looked up how to bleed the slave and did that. took it for a spin the car drove fine and everything, but the clutch still feels weird. The range is a lot shorter. It will go down with good pressure and come back up fine but it doesn't come all the way up, i have to pull it up wiht my hand. What does this mean?

 

[No_Skillz]

How far does it come back up by itself? When you pull it up with your hand, does it stay there? When it's pulled up, is there pressure during that section when you press it down again? Where the clutch engaging and is it at the same place even after you pull it up with your hand?

Check your adjustment rod first, you might have to back it out some more.

 

[crazyboost]

It comes almost all of the way up. I can just pull it up an inch or two further and it will stay there until i press the clutch back down to the floor and then it will do the same thing. yea the clutch will engage in the same spot every time, it doesn't engage right off the floor and the clutch adjustment rod is backed out pretty far so i think that is at the right spot. Could i have messed up something while bleeding it? thanks noskillz

 

[No_Skillz]

Explain your bleediing process to me as detailed as you can. Also, you mentioned something about bleeding the slave cylinder? I was under the impressioin that the slave was the ONLY place you can bleed it. If the clutch hydraulics are that much different than that on a 2g, I will stop giving you bad advice.