might be in the wrong thread but i got a launch Q

[Chipper308]

Just took the 97 gsx out to see how it would launch, held at about 5grand and pushed it a few times to run the boost up, hit it, AWD Chirped and acceled at a huge rate untill about 5-6 grand and then rev'd out, is it a slip by any chance? or is it just me paying that little attention to how far the clutch is out, did it a second time, same thing. when i seen no acceleration in first but the rpm's going up i hit second and it grabbed all over again????

Thanks!

P.s- i am THE newb to the dsm's just trying to educate. just sounds weird 1st wuld run out of juice like that.

List of mods:
- Custom 3" turbo back exhaust (quiet)
- 3g lifters
- Injen Recirculating cold air intake
- Megan strut bars (front and rear)
- Megan Coilovers
- Fluidamper Harmonic Balancer
- Anti-Sway bars (front and rear)
- NGK plugs and wires
- Centerforce clutch with OEM throwout bearing
- B&M Short Throw Shifter and symbroski brass bushings
- Full tint
- Evo 8 rims (Plasti-Dip Black)
- Optima Red-Top Battery

Other:
- Passenger front and rear wheel bearings replaced as of 07/19/12
- New master and slave cylinder as of 08/10/12
- New driver side tie rod as of 08/17/12

 

[hazmat6135]

Sounds like that clutch is on it's way out. Anytime your rev's go up and your speed doesn't and you are in gear it's normally the clutch slipping. Although I know 2g's always have clutch pedal adjustment issues so I'd have that checked first. If it's not the pedal it's a good excuse to upgrade the clutch goodluck!

 

[Paintballaa5]

I like how you listed window tint as a mod. haha

But anyways, that sounds like a slipping clutch. Mine is doing the exact same thing. Time for a bigger and better one buddy!

 

[Chipper308]

baaaaa shittay. was hoping that wasnt the issue. how long you think shes got with normal use untill kapuut??

 

[Paintballaa5]

Just dont boost it and you should be fine. I've been running mine like that for about a month and a half. I just dont boost enough to make it slip.

 

[Chipper308]

Just dont boost it and you should be fine. I've been running mine like that for about a month and a half. I just dont boost enough to make it slip.

i dont even get down on it that often bcuz i live in a city and 5-0 are pretty bad around here. just out to the gas station and took it on the outskirts and let it rip to see what would come out of it... i was overall happy.

 

[Paintballaa5]

Just go easy on her till you can get it replaced.

 

[Chipper308]

Just go easy on her till you can get it replaced.

guessing since you've had this problems you've considered what clutch is getting put in? mind sharing your finding??

 

[Paintballaa5]

I decided on the popular ACT 2100. What are your goals for your car?

Keep in mind some people believe in the "crankwalk" more than others. Some will tell you not to go higher than a 2100 on a 7-bolt, some will say you can go higher. I don't plan on making ridiculous power right now, so I played it safe and got a 2100.

 

[Chipper308]

that is what i was looking at as well actually, plans for the ride? maybe 300hp some day and no more than that. right now im just getting the thing on its feet, new car... doing the ful breakdown and lookover tomorrow morning till night. yourself?

 

[Paintballaa5]

Than the act 2100 will be perfect for you. Is pretty much good for a little over stock. I've got about the same goals, maybe a little higher. But it's a college DD so I can't go toooo crazy on it.

Good luck with it bud, and remember, maintenance first!

 

[H@xtGSX]

It's the window tint... It must be causing a parasitic drag. I'm pretty sure...

I have a 7 bolt that was just fine up to 108k, then I put a heavier puck clutch with a lightweight flywheel on it and it crankwalked enough to almost wreck the block. I put in a new crank, bearings, and disabled the clutch switch and it hasn't gained any end play in almost 20k miles. If you put in a heavier clutch, disable the clutch switch! and never start it with the clutch pushed in. Let it run for 15-20 seconds before stepping on the pedal. That should help prevent the thrust bearing from digging into the crank when it is dry. I think that is large contributor to thrust surface damage, and I did what everyone says not to and rebuilt a crankwalked 7 bolt... That one change, and me rounding off the bearing edges where the 2 halves meet seems to have worked well so far. Plus, I don't want a 6 bolt. The 7 bolt is inherently stronger than the 6 bolt down in the mains and maintains geometry very closely because of that huge bearing girdle the 6 bolts lack.

Don't spin that clutch too much. If you do, you'll wind up having to clean an 1/8" thick coating of clutch snot and kitty hair off of the inside of the bell housing when you pull the transmission off. I learned that the hard way.

 

[Paintballaa5]

It's the window tint... It must be causing a parasitic drag. I'm pretty sure...

I have a 7 bolt that was just fine up to 108k, then I put a heavier puck clutch with a lightweight flywheel on it and it crankwalked enough to almost wreck the block. I put in a new crank, bearings, and disabled the clutch switch and it hasn't gained any end play in almost 20k miles. If you put in a heavier clutch, disable the clutch switch! and never start it with the clutch pushed in. Let it run for 15-20 seconds before stepping on the pedal. That should help prevent the thrust bearing from digging into the crank when it is dry. I think that is large contributor to thrust surface damage, and I did what everyone says not to and rebuilt a crankwalked 7 bolt... That one change, and me rounding off the bearing edges where the 2 halves meet seems to have worked well so far. Plus, I don't want a 6 bolt. The 7 bolt is inherently stronger than the 6 bolt down in the mains and maintains geometry very closely because of that huge bearing girdle the 6 bolts lack.

Don't spin that clutch too much. If you do, you'll wind up having to clean an 1/8" thick coating of clutch snot and kitty hair off of the inside of the bell housing when you pull the transmission off. I learned that the hard way.

How much if a heavier clutch was it? My switch is disabled and I always let it warm up for 5 minutes or so before info anywhere

 

[H@xtGSX]

2200 lbs with a sprung 6 puck and the 11 lb Fidenza FW.

 

[Paintballaa5]

2200 lbs with a sprung 6 puck and the 11 lb Fidenza FW.

Hmm, I'm putting a act 2100 and the fidanza 8.5 lb. I've always read that to best avoid it to stay under 2100

 

[H@xtGSX]

That's not really proven. There are guys running 2600+ lb clutches without any issues... And they pretty much universally disable the clutch switch. Some do little tweaks to the thrust bearing surface, block off the oil squirters, or thicken out the thrust face on the block itself... But I believe a lot of the damage comes from a dry bearing with a lot of pressure on it at a cold start. It would only have to dig in a little, and it would score itself and continue to wear.

 

[richard33]

Ya I had a high mileage 7 bolt(200k +) that was hanging in there. Once I put an ACT 2600 with a 6 puck sprung clutch it walked 2 weeks later. Oh well. The 7 bolts are trash anyways. You can try the 2100 it should be fine though. Just be ready if it causes problems to put a 6 bolt in there.

 

[H@xtGSX]

Bah! 6 bolts are for quitters.

Like I said, I haven't had any problems with the rebuild so far. I will admit I have a 6 bolt block in the garage, but it was given to me for free. That's my excuse for that inconsistency.

 

[Paintballaa5]

That's not really proven. There are guys running 2600+ lb clutches without any issues... And they pretty much universally disable the clutch switch. Some do little tweaks to the thrust bearing surface, block off the oil squirters, or thicken out the thrust face on the block itself... But I believe a lot of the damage comes from a dry bearing with a lot of pressure on it at a cold start. It would only have to dig in a little, and it would score itself and continue to wear.

I know it's POSSIBLE to run higher pressure plates, but from what I understand is the general consensus is not to go over 2100 if you don't wanna risk it. It's completely possible it won't walk with a stronger clutch, but for the OP's goals, (and mine) the 2100 will be fine, and without adding extra risk of crank walk.

 

[Chipper308]

I know it's POSSIBLE to run higher pressure plates, but from what I understand is the general consensus is not to go over 2100 if you don't wanna risk it. It's completely possible it won't walk with a stronger clutch, but for the OP's goals, (and mine) the 2100 will be fine, and without adding extra risk of crank walk.

agreed, no intention of going overboard. money in the bank doesnt need to seemingly go missing either 2100 should offer me the perfect balance imho

 

[Bud92gsx]

You also might want to look into launch control..

And how to launch my 5 speed dsm.

 

[Chipper308]

You also might want to look into launch control..

And how to launch my 5 speed dsm.

looked into it, i got a t.a with a 400 in it, but they are completely different animals. i didnt have any issues. i actually ran it again today and didnt have any issues... idk... time will tell.

 

[cl1ckclack]

If your still looking into clutches look into South Bends, I have an ACT right now, and dont get me wrong, its a great clutch, but the pedal is VERY heavy for daily driving. Ive heard from multiple people that the south bends have a OEM feel, but grab like a heavy clutch

 

[Chipper308]

If your still looking into clutches look into South Bends, I have an ACT right now, and dont get me wrong, its a great clutch, but the pedal is VERY heavy for daily driving. Ive heard from multiple people that the south bends have a OEM feel, but grab like a heavy clutch

Sweet, thanks for bringing that up, deff be researching comparisons and such

 

[turboglenn]

I converted to AWD on my 97 and still run a ACT 2600PP (autozone friction disk - full faced) and a stock "jdm" flywheel (was the only AWD one i had during the swap - and is known to be less than optimal for these uses)

Anyway, with the 2600 a little too much slip and its' useless after the launch with an organic street disk. but dumping it is NOT what you want to do either.

Although this isn't the best way to get a killer 60foot, the best way i've foubnd to launch without burning the hell out of the clutch (and i usually leave the line spinning all four - or technically 3 )

but i have my 2 step set at 4850, then when i get up on the 2 step i let the clutch until i feel the first sign of of engagement (car just starts to roll the slightest bit) at that point i go Wide Open on the gas, and as that foots going to the floor i'm letting the clutch the rest of the way out as fast as i really can without side stepping the pedal.

using this method i went from damn near impossible to have a gripping clutch after a launch, to having a rather weak by most AWD standards setup, that can launch and get me to 4th with no issues time after time (i've launched and pulled about 5 times back to back without issue)

pressure p[late isn't as important as the friction disk, I could probably be more agressive with the slippage and pull better 60 foot times with soemthing like a south bend ceramic/feramic friction disk and next swap that's what will be going in (hopefully with a better flywheel and possibly PP)