front facing oil filter

[KeelesKustome]

on my 6 bolt swap the engine has the balance shafts deleted and a forward facing oil filter.....
what is the purpose of this? to me it looks like their isn't a oil cooler on it anymore..
is their a way to apply the 2g oil cooler to this setup?

as my old 2g had a few oil lines coming from the cooler, and now this 6 bolt setup doesn't seem to have any spots for them..I"ll get photos today if neede.d... i am kinda lost though.

 

[brian9397gsx]

i dont believe you can use a stock 2g filter housing on a 6bolt. im looking for a forward facing housing but i have the 90 style so you can use an external cooler ill trade you i just dont have lines or a cooler

 

[KeelesKustome]

alright here is my old 2g filter and housing,
you'll see it has alot coming off of it... what all it is idk... and do i need it?

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the 1g has this......... whats the differenc in this setup and why? what do i need to change to make everything hook up correctly?

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[9!'clipseDOHC]

That is the oil cooler ring used on 1991-1994 turbo 1gs (Non-turbo 4G63's did not come with the cooler). It is in internal oil cooler which runs coolant though itself to cool the oil down. The 1990 turbo 4G63's had an external cooler. Your is the forward facing oil filter with a lot of people like because give you more clearance for a big downpipe. I do not believe that it came stock on DSM's although it is an OEM Mitsubishi piece.

You can either change oil filter housings to the stock 91-94 with the cooler ring, to the 90 with an external oil cooler, or keep the forward facing housing and eliminate the oil cooler all together.

Check out FFWD for more info on the Foward Facing Oil Filter housing: http://www.ffwdconnection.com/filterbracket.shtml. Here is a quote from their page: Note: Our filer brackets do NOT have facility for oil cooling. Unless you're pounding on the car doing some canyon racing or Auto-Xing, we believe it isn't necessary to use coolers. None of our drag cars has ever used them.

Hope this helps!

 

[burkgonzo]

I think they came on Mighty Max trucks.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I think they came on Mighty Max trucks.

I was just looking that up and you are correct, it came on the Mitsubishi Mighty Max trucks: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Oil Filter Bracket Assembly (Mighty Max) Front Location - Mitsubishi Eclipse 6 Bolt. It is part number: MD122260

Hope this helps!

 

[KeelesKustome]

kinda..........

my old one has 3 lines and a pressure sensor maybe?

do i need to remove the thing off the bottom and put in my oil line?

I'm confused on how i need to run those old lines with this setup.. I'd preffer to just leave this on, i just need some way to rehook all the lines.
but now i know what this is so it did help a lil thanx

photos would be great

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

kinda..........

my old one has 3 lines and a pressure sensor maybe?

do i need to remove the thing off the bottom and put in my oil line?

I'm confused on how i need to run those old lines with this setup.. I'd preffer to just leave this on, i just need some way to rehook all the lines.
but now i know what this is so it did help a lil thanx

photos would be great

Lines and sensors: There are 2 oil lines for the turbo, feed is from the side of the head and return is to the oil pan. There are 2 coolant lines that run to the oil cooler ring. With the forward facing oil filter housing, you will have to block off the coolant lines as there will be no oil filter cooler ring. Then there are 2 sensors, the oil pressure sensor, and the idiot light sensor. With the forward facing filter housing there should be no lines running to it.

Here are some pictures for you:

Here is the forward facing oil filter housing:

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Here is the Oil Pressure Sensor:

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Here is the Idiot Light Sensor:

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[KeelesKustome]

will i be able to turn the idiot light off my dsmlink? the pic's did help, leave them up for me.
also the wire running to the pressure sensor.... do i modify my 7 bolt to work with this or how does that go?

oh and where on the head is the oil line?

thanx for the quick replies.

 

[whe3ls]

its on the passenger side, its a bolt just under the valve cover,

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

will i be able to turn the idiot light off my dsmlink? the pic's did help, leave them up for me.
also the wire running to the pressure sensor.... do i modify my 7 bolt to work with this or how does that go?

oh and where on the head is the oil line?

thanx for the quick replies.

Here is my 1g which shows the wiring for the idiot light and pressure sensor. Single yellow wire for idiot light and single blue wire for pressure sensor. I am not sure if the 2g wiring is the same or not.

I take it you are using a 2g head then? The 1gs are fed from the head from the factory, the port is on the passenger side of the head, near the exhaust manifold. Here is a kit you can buy to feed from the head: http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19248&cat=336&page=1 or you can get a 1g banjo bolt which is 10MMx1.25 and 2 10MM copper crush washers and put your own line together.

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[KeelesKustome]

the pix really help, and it a full 6 bolt swap.

what would i need to do to make the head oil feed work?

whats wrong with this.... it seems they are running with no oil pressure indicator...

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also can i just add an elbo and run my oil from the filter to turbo and the pressure unit?

 

[whe3ls]

get the ffwd foward facing housing

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[9!'clipseDOHC]

the pix really help, and it a full 6 bolt swap.

what would i need to do to make the head oil feed work?

whats wrong with this.... it seems they are running with no oil pressure indicator...

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also can i just add an elbo and run my oil from the filter to turbo and the pressure unit?

Since its a full swap, that makes it even easier. You can just use the stock 1g plumbing for the oil feed and return. What turbo are you going to be using?

To make the head oil feed work you just hook it up. That's how the 1gs are fed from the factory.

I do not see a pressure sensor on that seup unless they tapped somewhere else away from the housing. I would ALWAYS run an oil pressure gauge.

You can add a "T" and run both sensors or drill and tap the housing for a second port. It seems the forward facing housing only have one port from the factory.

 

[noV8undrDIShood]

those foward acing OFH's came on the Evo III's also i believe

 

[KeelesKustome]

running a bushur ported and clipped 20g in a mhi housing.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

those foward acing OFH's came on the Evo III's also i believe

Those are the 7 bolt forward facing oil fiter housings. He has a 6 bolt which would be out of a Mighty Max truck.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

running a bushur ported and clipped 20g in a mhi housing.

Is that the Buschur Racing TDO5/6 Hybrid 20g?!?!? If so, that what I am planning on getting as well

 

[manny correa]

i also have one of these forward facing OFH's, on my 6bolt 2g. does this affect performance at all? (the oil not being cooled and such..) id think not, but any one with first hand experience shime in. thanks

 

[KeelesKustome]

Is that the Buschur Racing TDO5/6 Hybrid 20g?!?!? If so, that what I am planning on getting as well

yep, so i am assuming it aught to be able to hook up to the head with no preasure regulator etc.....? (regarding the oil line)

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

yep, so i am assuming it aught to be able to hook up to the head with no preasure regulator etc.....? (regarding the oil line)

Depends on who you talk to. Many, many DSMers run a -4 AN line with no restrictor and with no problems but other members swear it's best to use the 1g factory line (with a built in restrictor) or a proper restrictor. But nobody seems to know what the proper restrictor is and it varies from setup to setup. Honestly, I would call Buschur Racing and ask them how they recommend feeding this turbo. (and let me know what they say!)

Here are some aftermarket feed kits (from the head):
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Feedline Kit (Head Location): Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 $35 from Extreme PSI
SS Oil Feed Line-Head to Mitsubishi Turbo : JNZ Tuning $25 from JNZ

Here is the OEM Feed line (MR239830):
JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts $24.40 from JNZ

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Check out this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/329317-14b-oil-feed-part-number.html

 

[KeelesKustome]

hey 9!
I got all the oil issues squared away and fixed today, last question dealing with this. the little allen head bolt on the front of the head... do i need to do something with it?
can you show me how your coolant lines are run?

and should i run my 2g water neck on the right side near the battery? the 1g neck has the little spots for tiny lines that my 2g did not have,

i am unsure how to run the lines from the neck to the turbo and to the iacv on the throttle body. a diagram or pic would greatly help.

i have another issue..how do i go about running my vacume lines to the external wastegate i have....

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this is a turbonetics streetgate.. even though not in this photo, it has another nipple directly above this one...
so how do i run this from my MBC?

do i run the bottom hose from the mbc with a T fitting leading to the bottom port of this Extwaste and the turbo intake housing?

If so do i leave the top port open?

please help asap/








these are for my refference.

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**This information should be used at your own descretion. Removal of these components may result in failure of the State Emmisions Standards**

All information was taken from Taboo Speed Shop

2g Eclipse/Talon

Normal Vacuum Diagram:
Stock emission controls and vacuum hoses configuration as found on federal 2g turbo DSM's

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After removal:
The WGS, FPS, EGRS and EVAPS ports don't need to be plugged. However, leave them plugged in to prevent the ECU from throwing CEL and plug the port of the evaporative canister hose on the turbo inlet hose after you remove the canister. The boost gauge may be ran off the "P"port of the throttle body or the FPS line.

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1g Eclipse/Talon

Normal Vacuum Diagram:
Stock emission controls and vacuum hoses configuration as found on federal 1g turbo DSM's

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After removal:
The WGS, EPS and TVV ports don't need to be plugged. However, plug the port of the evaporative canister hose on the turbo inlet hose after you remove the canister (not shown). The boost gauge may be ran off the "P" port of the throttle body or the FPS line.

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Hope this helps.

This is how I have mine ran. Red lines indicate vacuum.

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Everything is else is removed or closed loop.

more reference photos for me today.

1. Your car wouldn't start using the '95 ECU because your running a '97-'99 CAS with it, you need to swap the firing order of the spark plug wires.
   
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2. I don't know what shop your working with but if they aren't a Mitsu specialist (like the dealership) then they don't qualify to work on a DSM in my opinion, especially if its complicated which your issue is.
3. Go to a local car parts store and get a '97 Galant A/T alternator, its 90A instead of 60A and bolts into place. Quit having all these B.S. shops rebuild your alternators and troubleshoot your charging problems, your chasing your tail.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

hey 9!
I got all the oil issues squared away and fixed today, last question dealing with this. the little allen head bolt on the front of the head... do i need to do something with it?
can you show me how your coolant lines are run?

and should i run my 2g water neck on the right side near the battery? the 1g neck has the little spots for tiny lines that my 2g did not have,

i am unsure how to run the lines from the neck to the turbo and to the iacv on the throttle body. a diagram or pic would greatly help.

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#35 connects from the thermostat housing to the FIAV and #36 connects from the water pipe to the FIAV. #40 connects from the oil cooler ring to the water pipe and #'s 41, 43, and 39 connect from the oil cooler ring to the thermostat housing.

I do not know if a 2g thermostat housing will bolt up but the 1g 4g63 n/t thermostat housing and water pipe both bolt up perfect and do not have the oil cooler fittings.

Hope this helps!

I have never used a wastegate like that but I believe that the top nipple stays open to the atmosphere. I'd search and if you can't find anything, start a different thread for that.

 

[KeelesKustome]

the problem i seem to be having is that the front facing oil filter, has no cooler........... so where in the world do i connect my bottom turbo coolant hose?

can i tap into the waterpipe against the front of the block and run the bottom coolant line their?
or can i run it into where the iacv coolant hose should go instead?

i wish your illistration showed a the turbo lines

more reference photos

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looks like the bottom of the turbo line goes under the cap area
the other top hose seems to be right above it.................. is that correct?

wire tuck thread is good!

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[9!'clipseDOHC]

the problem i seem to be having is that the front facing oil filter, has no cooler........... so where in the world do i connect my bottom turbo coolant hose?

can i tap into the waterpipe against the front of the block and run the bottom coolant line their?
or can i run it into where the iacv coolant hose should go instead?

i wish your illistration showed a the turbo lines

As you wish:

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The coolant line on the back of the turbo connects to the nipple on the front center of the thermostat housing (the nipple above the 2 coolant temp sensors, beside the a/c thermoswitch).
The coolant line on the front of the turbo loops under the turbo and connects to the water pipe almost directly behind the turbo (slightly to the passenger side).

Just block off the 2 ports on the thermostat housing that the water pipe connects to or just loop them, bypassing the oil cooler. Keep the turbo thermostat housing and water pipe for your turbo coolant lines.

Hope this helps! Have a safe, happy New Year! I'm off to work.