Solid lifters to degree cams?

[Demon33]

Does anyone know where I can buy solid lifters to degree my cams with?

 

[RipperXX]

BLE makes some. And I know there listed on extremepsi's website.

 

[kimcheefists]

You don't need solid lash adjusters to degree cams. I'd just stick with the stock hydraulic lifters if I was you unless you want to keep checking for zero valve clearance.

 

[turbo90gsx]

You can disassemble a stock lifter and use shims to set for 0 lash.

 

[Demon33]

You don't need solid lash adjusters to degree cams. I'd just stick with the stock hydraulic lifters if I was you unless you want to keep checking for zero valve clearance.

I beg to differ. A solid lifter is absolutely necessary in order to degree a cam properly and accurately.
http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/4g63-c...degreeing.html

Also, I won't be using these solild lifters to drive my car with. I'm just looking for a pair to degree my cams with. My 3G hydraulic lifters are perfectly fine and I don't plan on replacing them anytime soon.

You can disassemble a stock lifter and use shims to set for 0 lash.

Ya, I saw that in the link I posted above, but just before step 4 they go on to say, "The preferred method is to use solid lifters(nut adjuster type). You can accurately adjust the lifters to have .001" preload, which can not be easily done using shims. So I'm looking for a pair of adjustable solid lifters with a jam nut as mentioned.

I received information that Extreme PSI sells them, but looking at their site, they sell a set for over $300! I only need 2. I emailed them asking if they would sell me a pair, but I haven't heard back yet.

If anyone knows where I can buy just 2 adjustable solid lifters or has a pair thtat I could borrow or buy, please PM me. Thanks.

 

[kimcheefists]

I beg to differ. A solid lifter is absolutely necessary in order to degree a cam properly and accurately.

Like I said, you don't NEED solid lifters. As what Turbo90gsx and that link explained, you can also use shims which is cheaper than buying solid lifters that you'll use as a tool. And if you're really set on getting solid lifters, I don't think BLE sell their lifters individually. You might as well use the shim method unless you want to spend 300 plus dollars.

 

[Demon33]

Like I said, you don't NEED solid lifters. As what Turbo90gsx and that link explained, you can also use shims which is cheaper than buying solid lifters that you'll use as a tool.

Shimming a disassembled hydraulic lash adjuster is in essence, a solid lifter, i.e. uncompressable.

Why do you assume that I'm looking for the cheaper option as opposed to the BETTER, easier to use and more accurate option?

Maybe I wasn't exactly clear in my original post, but I'm looking for ONLY 2 adjustable, jam-type (no shims) solid lifters to degree my cams with.

 

[defrag010]

If you have the .002" valve events of your cam, you don't even need to mess with changing lifters. Bleed down the two you are using to check and stick your indicator on top of the hydraulic-side of the rocker. .002" valve lift is roughly equivalent to .001" lifter movement, so degree by watching for the lifter to move down .001". The lifter being bled down allows the internal spring to keep lash but it will also travel before the valve will move. Go slowly. I have done this back to back using valve events against a threaded adjustable lifter measured off the valve and it was not even a degree off.

 

[300dollarGSX]

I made mine. I'll take some pictures of them if I can ever find them again. Haha! I thought they were in the box with my degree wheel and dial indicator, but they weren't there. Basically, I took some old lifters apart. There is a thin metal cap type piece in the top part of the lifter. I pulled it out to make enough room to fit a small bolt in the base. I wanted to be able to fit the top over the bolt and down into the base. Then I used two thin nuts (to lock against each other) to adjust the overall height of the lifter. The nut must be small enough to fit inside the lifter base, but large enough so the lifter top can sit on top of it.
So, basically:

1. Find 2 old lifters.
2. Completely disassemble them.
3. Find 2 bolts that can fit in the base of the lifter with the threads facing upwards.
4. Find 4 thin nuts (or cut some down) that will fit your bolts and fit inside the lifter base.
5. Cut the bolts short enough so the lifter can compress to smaller than stock.
6. Put the nuts on the bolt and tighten them against each other.
7. Place the lifter top into the lifter base so that it rests on the top nut.
8. Adjust as necessary.

If I can find mine, I'll post some pics.

 

[turbo90gsx]

Yeah, the shim method was pretty tedious, however you can get them very close, just remember you don't have to use washers, anything non-compressible to compensate for clearance will work. I would never run a solid adjuster in my 4g63 so i really couldn't justify spending that much for 2 lifters. I really don't think you'll be able to buy just 2, that would be really nice, and I would buy them too if you can find them. I degreed my BC 280's in to what I would think is really really close to card specs with using shims in a hydraulic lifter.

 

[Demon33]

I really don't think you'll be able to buy just 2, that would be really nice, and I would buy them too if you can find them.

If you have access to the ECMLink forums- ECMTuning User Support Forums

Otherwise, Darren at FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain probably still has a few pairs left. He parted out a used set and sold me just the 2 I needed. Great guy to deal with and fast shipping too.