The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Possibly refreshing the block, need ideas...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BorinquenEclips

10+ Year Contributor
52
1
Sep 15, 2009
Greenville, South Carolina
Alright so for the past year I have had a 95 GSX sitting in my back yard that I bought with a blown motor (crankwalked) and was just planning on swapping another motor into until I ran into a 6 bolt motor for sale, so I said might as well do the swap. Now its been over a year (can't work on it very often due to college) and when I finally gathered enough parts and had my plans down on paper, I decided to do one last inspection of the motor before I drop it in and found this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Now Im pretty sure thats not a very good sign, seems like theres a good bit of water mixed in with the little bit of oil that was in the oil pan. So it looks like I'll be doing a rebuild since I will be making this car my daily driver and need it to very reliable.

Now theres many ways I can do this and I need help on deciding on which way to go as far as what my goals are. This will be a complete learning experience. I could:

A. Just re-ring the block, replace the bearings, ARP whatever I can, OEM composite head gasket, hot tank, deck, hone the block, and then just take my head to Napa to get it checked out.

B. Get a strong set of FACTORY internals. What I mean is I was looking at the DSM Graveyard Evo 9 pistons hung onto some 6 bolt rods, ARP everything, ACL race bearings, OEM composite head gasket, hot tank, deck, hone, bore the block .20 over, and then just take the head to Napa to get checked out.

C. Fully forged set-up. Wiseco/Eagle of course with all the works of a nicely built bottom end but this time with a MLS headgasket

My original goal was to acheive 400whp with just the stock internals on an HX35 with ALL supporting mods and DSM link of course. I know being a daily driver its kind of risky but after everything I have read about the 6 bolt motors, Im pretty sure It can handle it and still be pretty reliable. I wanted to drive that set-up while I built another 6 bolt motor on the side (which I already have as well) with fully forged internals and aim for 500whp. BUT since I do have the chance of refreshing (or rebuilding) the block I thought I would ask what some experience DSMers would do in my shoes. I am on a tight budget only because I am sooooo ready to start driving the GSX, but I can always find the patience to slowly piece together a forged set-up on a budget.

So please, someone help me figure out what I should do! If I dont do the forged set-up now I WILL being building one while I drive the car which is why I feel like I can just keep it stock for now, get as close to 400hp as possible, then swap in a new motor when ready. Any opinions would help!

Thanks




Oh and by the way could I get away with just cleaning the gunk out of the oil strainer (2nd picture) or should I just replace that and the oil pump all together? Im thinking replacing it all together but anywhere I can save money helps!
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
With that much moisture in there I would suggest that the engine come down to a bare block and be inspected. You may be able to get away with cleaning and reassembling it. Or you could have some rust built up that will necessitate a rebuild.

What's in the block now, all stock?
 
With that much moisture in there I would suggest that the engine come down to a bare block and be inspected. You may be able to get away with cleaning and reassembling it. Or you could have some rust built up that will necessitate a rebuild.

What's in the block now, all stock?

Its completely stock, unknown miles but I can tell you it looks like its over 100,000 miles. I was wanting to keep it stock and push it to 400whp but not after that just came out. I can pretty much assume the bearings are done, but If I replace the bearings I'm doing a full refresh of the block ( rings bearings ARP everything etc..). But still, I need more info and assurance that what I want to do is a good idea, or if I should go with stronger internals.

Dont see any rust yet, but the block hasnt been completly disassemble. Any more input would be great!
 
OK so this is a parts list that I have so far since I am leaning towards rebuilding a reliable stock bottom end:

ARP Head studs
ARP Rod bolts
OEM Composite Head Gasket (I was told it can handle up to 28psi)
OEM Timing Belt
ACL Tri-metal Bearings (Main and Rod)
New Piston Rings

Thats it for now, is it overkill for a stock block?

Thanks
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top