Stroker

[Engelstine]

hey guys..i just have a quick inquiry..over the spring/summer i wanted to do a stroker rebuild project in my garage..i was wondering what all is involved in this..i know i gottaget the pistons,rods and that..but machining wise.what would have to be done..if someone has a page that has steps on how to do that rebuild that would be cool..just thought it would bea fun project to do..thanks guys

 

[Polk]

The only trouble you will run into is the rods hitting the block. Eagles hit the 1,2 and 4,5 main cap support. You just have to relieve the main caps a little for them to clear. Crowers will only hit the side of the block in one spot. It is on the #3 cylinder where the balance shaft was located.

Here is a pic of a stroker Crower rod motor and what was removed.

Polk

 

[jdmawd]

OK so what's the difference, between a 2.3L drop in and a 63/64 hybrid like what magnus offers? the cost difference is fairly substantial.

 

[nothing stock]

If your doing a stroker you will need a crank, pistons, rods, bearings, & rings. Polk is right about the clearancing issues. My engine builder had to relieve the main cap webs as well as the block in a couple places.

If your buying a block for the project the 2.4L project will be the same price or cheaper depending on the condition of the block.

A new crank runs ~$600 pistons, rods, rings & bearings are about the same between the motors as well as machine work.

Good luck, the torque is worth it.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by nothing stock
If your doing a stroker you will need a crank, pistons, rods, bearings, & rings. Polk is right about the clearancing issues. My engine builder had to relieve the main cap webs as well as the block in a couple places.

If your buying a block for the project the 2.4L project will be the same price or cheaper depending on the condition of the block.

A new crank runs ~$600 pistons, rods, rings & bearings are about the same between the motors as well as machine work.

Good luck, the torque is worth it.

That's just it I have a spare block that's in good condition. I envisioned purchasing the rotating assembly from ffwdconnection or Polk and having the necessary machining done to the block so that it all fits. Or am I missing something? will a 6bolt 4g63 block not work?

 

[dyezak]

You can get 6bolt 4g64 cranks (or 7bolt) from AutoZone for $360. I know what you're thinkin...but the cranks are good...They are stock pieces that have been checked with micrometers and sonic dillywhoo's. They do not sell ground cranks, so you know the stock nitride is still in the crank and you will not have to have the thing re-heat treated, nor need oversized bearings. I too have an extra 6bolt 63 block and will be doing the stroker build (eagle/je) this next fall. JE even makes a shelf stock piston for this application, P/N 202192 (85.5mm bore) and P/N 202193 (86mm bore). Standard eagles will work fine, and bearings and rings will be Clevite 77's and Speed Pro's. So the only crazy custom work will be clearancing of the block only.

 

[Engelstine]

i will have to get the block bored though right..how much does that usually run..im still kinda new at this, i will be getting my ASE engine repair Cert. so im hoping to get a job in the spring/summer at an engine shop, so that maybe a good thing...that would make things easier..so right now what im looking at is 6bolt 4g64 crank,85.5mm or 86mm (which is recommended?) the rods, bearings and rings?

 

[nothing stock]

There's nothing wrong with using a '63 block. I used a NT '63 block to eliminate the oil squirters. Since you already have this block go with the JE, ross or wiesco stroker '63 piston. The difference with this piston is that it moves the wrist pin 6mm higher which puts it in the oil ring. Not a big deal, but worth noting. The off the shelf JE's end up around 8.8:1 compression. You can get custom pistons for any compression you want.

I chose the Eagle rods for their H-beam design instead of I-beam. It's a whole different topic I don't feel like explaining. Do some research. There are pro's and con's to both. BTW price had absolutely nothing to do with my decision. I wasn't trying to cheap out on this engine.

Good luck, and boring your block should run you about $80. They will want to clean it too which usually runs about $50-100 depending on the method. It's pointless giving estimates, look in the yellow pages and make a phone call. A brand new crank from Mitsubishi will cost around $600, a junkyard probably has one for half that.

 

[na90dsm]

Would you need to use special tools to gain clearance for the connecting rods to the block. Looking at Polks picture, It looks like if someone were mechanically inclined they could do this themself.And what sizing on the rods is nessacary to gain this displacement.

Also what car did the 4g64 crank come in.

 

[dangerous dave]

I am also building a stroker. I was considering using a non turbo block, but I'm nervous about not having oil squirters. The car is mostly street driven. Has any body had any problems with eliminating the squirters in a street application. I can get a complete nt for 50.00 and the head castings are the same.

 

[sophat34]

from what I have heard the oil squirters are not a big issue. akdsm has the 4g64 with a crank for 90. of you smarter then me you will take it out of the box ans coat it with some oil too, other wise you end up buying a new crank. If you need to talk to some one abotu it marco at magnus was a great help, got me my pistons. also he sold me on a set of paulter rods. the crower rods work with out clearencing on the 4g64 but the paulters are lighter, story goes it will help the crank stay alive a little bit longer. you need a diff set of cam gears for the 4g64 also.

 

[na90dsm]

The crank bolts right up in these setups, correct. Other than having to clearence the block.

 

[Polk]

The crank bolts right up in these setups, correct. Other than having to clearence the block.

Yes.

Polk

 

[talonted_one]

Hey all... I have recently come down with a bad case of a spun rod bearing. Since I have to have the motor rebuilt I want to get rid of the 7bolt crankwalking demon that I have and replace it with the 2.4l engine.

Since this is still relatively new to me can someone point me to a vendor or vendor that has good prices on the parts that I need.

I have a list of parts and so far I have a few things that I might need. Any direction would be much appreciated.

 

[NosLaser]

I've not looked too deeply into the stroker motors, but I have a few concerns. Has anyone done anything to address rod/stroke ratio, and does the re-positioned wristpin do anything to change the upper ring land?

Regards,

 

[Tevenor]

Originally posted by NosLaser
I've not looked too deeply into the stroker motors, but I have a few concerns. Has anyone done anything to address rod/stroke ratio, and does the re-positioned wristpin do anything to change the upper ring land?

Regards,

Custom pistons.

 

[talonted_one]

there are several vendors that carry custom pistons for the 4G64 hybrid.

 

[na90dsm]

Can it be done succesfully with a non-turbo application. If so, can anyone shoot me a link to where i can get these pistons.

 

[talonted_one]

if you can swap a 4g63 into a N/A I dont see why not...but I could wrong. do a search on the 4G64 you will find more than enough info

 

[na90dsm]

I have the 4g63 motor in the car now. I was just wondering if it could be made into a stroker motor fairly easy. Im gonna run this motor n/a and want to up the stroke for the gains from it. I just wanted to know if anyone had a link to buy the 4g64 crank and where i could get the pistons for this application.

 

[NosLaser]

Come on Tev, I expected more than that. Enter Devil's advocate mode: Since you need to push the pin up higher with any stroker application, you begin to interfere with the oil control rings which can cause premature wear, although oiling may be slightly improved. Once you push the pin up, it usually means pushing up all three rings including the upper ring land which you really don't want too close to the heat of combustion anyway. Remedy? Taller block deck. Wouldn't that be nice. The rod stroke ratio on our cars is pretty good (roughly 1.70) and it's ideal to keep a good rod/stroke ratio on a turbocharged car. With just a custom piston and the same length rod, DISPLACEMENT ASIDE of course, you would have to run more timing to make the same power. I would think that a longer rod would be more beneficial from a rod/stroke ratio standpoint. With a longer rod, you would have more piston dwell at top dead center thus allowing more time for cylinder pressure to act on the piston, and wouldn't require as much timing to make the same power. I'm very interested in the stroker motors, just trying to see both sides of it. I'm curious as to what changes in tuning had to be made, and where the car comes on power, and if there have been any notable drawbacks to the strokers with regards to reliability, power potential on pump gas, wear and tear, etc.

Regards,

 

[na90dsm]

I find this interesting too. I would like to see the rod specs and so forth of the stroker conversion. I would also be interested to see what exactly they changed and what benifits they got from them.

 

[talonted_one]

I have been ALOT of research on the questions that you have just asked. To date NO ONE has been able to tell me from first hand expeirence on the bad parts of the swap. The ONLY con to the swap is the possible cost of the project, but then if you think about it what built motor is cheap.

I have heard all the good I want to hear the bad. So far any bad things are theory. Enough theory I want evidence to substantiate any claims.

 

[na90dsm]

Very tru. i have done some reaserching myself and found only good thing and a few theorys about the bad.

 

[talonted_one]

does anyone kow who on tuners has the swap done? I know a couple people are in the process of it now.