The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G 6 bolt swap questions...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gob4sho89

15+ Year Contributor
215
0
Dec 31, 2006
Farmington Hill, Michigan
Hi, I will probably be asking all of my questions regarding my 6 bolt swap here, only after searching... Right now I am still sanding and painting my engine bay:boring:, and hope to have the car done and driving for the spring. Here is a list of the parts currently sitting in my basement and garage...

Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Aeromotive A1000-6 AFPR
FIC 650cc fuel injectors
AEM fuel rail (gift from older brother!)
Apexi SAFC 2
Pocket logger
HKS Turbo timer
Autometer Gauges-electric water temp, oil pressure, and egt- mechanical boost gauge-AFR
1st gen bov
Intercooler piping(made it myself)
ebay FMIC(9"x32"x3")
60 trim ball bearing turbo(internal gate)
k&n air filter with 2g maf adapter
SBR 02 housing with o2 dump

6 bolt short block 85.5mm bore assembled with
Eagle rods
Wisco 8.3-1 pistons
New mitsu crank
ARP rod bolts and Main studs

Stock 2g head, with 120k on it...
I have no idea what to put in my head. I am swapping in the 6 bolt block and keeping my 2g head. I am not going to port the head, just polish up the ports, and new everything in it. I DO NOT WANT OVERSIZED VALVES. This car will be a dd and hit the track 2-3 times a month. Mostly drag and autocross... I am concerned with spool, and don’t know which head parts would best assist with spool time while still being efficient? I plan on running 30psi.

For the first few thousand miles I will be running 12-15 pounds of boost, but once she is broken in, and my pocketbook recovers a little, I will be running dsmlink and 850-950cc fuel injectors... and of course a better bov. I welcome any suggestions or advice also, because this is my first engine build/swap. Thanks in advance for the help I know I will receive. :)
 
Are you aware you will need to have the 2G head machined to fit the 6bolt head studs? I used my 2g head with my swap and after all the crap i went through (Loooong story) I ended up picking up a nice drill bit and wacked the holes out myself...works great!

For any future questions on the swap regarding CAS wireing and such, ALOT of info can be found on the Magnusmotorsports website.
 
yes, I am aware of that...right now I am not sure about which cams, vlaves, springs and retainers, lifters and valve guides to get? What cams would help me spool my turbo quicker? And then, which of the other components will I need to support the cams? I plan on having a redline around 9500rpm... The car is a DD, but I do not mind a rough idle. Thanks, there is alot of good info on Magnusmotorsports's website.:thumb:
 
For cams it will pretty much come down to your budget. But for a DD maybe go with Forced performance FP2's (pretty cheap in price) or HKS 272's if you had a little more to spend among other brands of cams....
The fp2's will offer more low end power while the 272's will offer more high end power.
 
I decided on BC valve springs*, retainers, and cams...(got them cheap through a friend) --- I have arp main studs... Do I have to drill out the mounting hole on my new oil pickup tube, or can I re-use the one that was on my motor to begin with? The one that was on my motor before does not have the extra bracket that attaches to the main stud. Hopefully I will have time to post some pictures of my project later today... Thanks
 
Thanks... "My 2g 6 Bolt Build" and "Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild" are two threads that I have read at least 20 times each, as they are very helpfull. I can honestly say that if those 2 guys didn't write those threads, I would have probably bought a different car when my 7bolt walked/spun bearing/made metal pices the size dimes...

So I compared the 2 pick up tubes and they both seem like they would work-same shape and size tube... One tube has a flat and really wide screen on the end of it and the other one has a smaller, but much more round screen on it. Is one shape screen better than the other? Or is it just 2 different designes that do exactly the same thing? Thanks again
 
They do the same thing...keep large pieces of debris(sp?) out of your oil system. Its not rocket science now :D I don't see where one will improve flow over the other, or where one restrict's flow...its more or less just a screen over a metal tube.
 
So my turbo... It was used for less than 700 miles... very little shaft play. It says AGP L2R on the center section... I know that it is ball bearing. What oil feed line do I need and where should it feed from? I was thinking this kit...? EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Feedline Kit w/ 15 Micron Filter (Head Location): Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

Also, do I need the restrictor because it is bb?

I also have no Idea what to expect from this turbo...? Is it much bigger then a 20g? 50trim? 57trim? I will be posting pictures of my build as soon as if figure out how exactly to resize them. Thanks
 
As for the oil pickup, I tried drilling out the hole larger and it just didnt want to work correctly for me. Maybe others had success with it, but I just cut the whole bracket off, which many others have too.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top