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Head and timing issues

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chowda633

15+ Year Contributor
169
3
Dec 31, 2003
Newport, Rhode Island
I just picked up an AWD 95 talon with a 4G64 in it. Built bottom end, 60-1, stage 5 head, 880's, and the list goes on. Got it for almost nothing. Putting it back together now having a few difficulties though.

Here is the main thing... I put the timing belt back on assembled everything properly and went to check the timing by turning by hand and it seems to be hitting the valves. But marks are all aligned I ran out of time to try anything what is the reason for this?

Now the cams were out of the head over a year and I did not use a torque wrench to put the caps back on. Someone mentioned the lifters need to be bled? Could this be the cause? The head had bent valves originally motor got 50 miles before T belt broke. Head was repaired and the guy quit dsms right after that and a year later I bought it now. Any ideas or help is appreciated!

Thanks,
Josh
 
If the lifters were previously pressureised, then yes it could be a fatcor. When you were tightening the cam caps down you would have noticed this if you were looking for it. Generally you can overcome this by positioning the pistons (all of them) so that they are all at a mid stroke position. By doing this you can ensure that no piston to valve contact will occur. Then without the timing belt installed you can rotate the cams (one at a time) slowly (note: you need to pay attention the the position of the valves on the cam you are not turning to ensure that you don't get valve to valve contact) (this is easily done with a pen type light & mirror through the spark plug holes) rotate the cam several revolutions. Next due the same to the other cam (again watching for valve to valve contact) Generally this will bleed most of the lifters back to a normal installed position.



You should use a torque wrench and tighten the caps to the specified value. 14 to 15 ft/lbs.
 
Could be hitting the valve's but if everything line's up like you say then it should be ok. If the lifters aren't bled they can get freeze open and not compress causing the motor to more or less sieze. RRE says to either let the car sit for about 3 hours to let them bleed themselve's out or you can always disable the ignition and turn the motor over to prime it. But I wouldn't recommend that.
 
Turns out the timing mark was off on the bottom crank. On the 2.4 the tdc mark is at the bottom not at the top left like on a 2g. Moving on to other problems now LOL. Thanks for the help!.
 
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