Pulling the head list of parts to replace please

[L2RTSiAWD]

Hello all,

I'm pulling the head so I can get my Intake manifold bolted on properly and have no leaks. Since the head will be off I could use a list of things to replace while I'm in there.

I'm not getting it ported or anything.

 

[larryd]

Are you actually planning on building the head while its off?? If so then springs/retainers, valves/valve seals. Dont forget a new valve cover gasket when you put it all back together

 

[KenTSIII]

valve cover gaskets are normally reusable. I'd prolly take it to the machine shop & get it hot tanked, decked, & a 3 angle valve job (normally comes w/ new valve seals also). I had this done recently & it only cost $120. Well worth it in my opinion. You also might take them your intake manifold to make sure that it's flat.. since you were having issues w/ leaks.

 

[Dsmed]

John, port and polish it man. While you have it off do it. You'll be a happy camper afterwards. And yes do the 3 angle valve job, and obviously a metal headgasket.

 

[Dsmed]

Crower's new Misubishi/DSM valve springs and titanium retainers are available for the 4G63 Eclipse and Talon applications. The new single valve spring delivers 15% more pressure across the board than the factory part. Also, with a coil bind of 0.910", the Crower spring allows for more cam lift than factory springs will allow. Stock O.D., so no machine work is required to the cylinder head. Crower titanium retainers weigh in at 7 grams vs. stock steel at 14.5 grams.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

What do you guys think about ARP head studs or should I just get mitsu factory replacements.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

What I'm mainly looking for is a list of gaskets and bolts.

 

[larryd]

I think if your not already running ARP head studs you should DEFINITELY be running them. as for Gaskets I would just stick with the OEM headgasket.

 

[Dsmed]

well in that case, go with the ARP if you have the money to spare for them. If not then go with the OEM's. And it is still a tough decision on headgasket. You are looking for some nice quick times when you get the car tuned, you may be better off with a metal gasket to be on the safe side. You really don't want to do any valve jobs or porting and polishing though???

 

[Dsmed]

and obviously you know to pick up some new camgear oil seals right? If not then you need a kick in the nuts. MAKE SURE you get some!!!

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Originally posted by Dsmed
and obviously you know to pick up some new camgear oil seals right? If not then you need a kick in the nuts. MAKE SURE you get some!!!

Already got those when the new cams where installed.

Ok

ARP Headstuds
New HG
New Intake Manifold Gasket
New Exhaust Manifold Gasket (which I already have)

I already have new camgear seals,valve cover gasket ,spark plug gaskets and the half-moon gasket thingy.

 

[Dsmed]

I know this is not advanced tuning things here, but you do know to put a dab of silicone gasket sealer under the half moon plug right? Save yourself from some future oil leaks right there. Also you may want to take your TB off of the intake and clean the hell out of the intake manifold. Then clean up the butterfly on the TB, clean both sides of the butterfly. Since you aren't gonna do any port and polishing then at least clean everything really good. You will need a new paper gasket for the TB to intake manifold though when you seperate them. Can I convince you to atleast smoothly sand out the intake runners on the intake manifold and the intake side of the head? It'll be about 20 minutes of extra work and air flow will be a little smoother.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

well depending on how much a nice port will cost me I may get it ported. At least I will get the head cleaned and get a valve job.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

I already have brand new TB gaskets

 

[DSMu4ia]

Get a head job done, 3/5angle, rebuilt, hot tanked etc. Port matched to 1g manifold, and remove the casting marks. I wouldn't trust any other head shop besides the big ones with more work than that.

OEM HG is fine. Metal HG isn't to be used by everyone.

ARP studs, torqued to 95ft/lbs.

Mitsu makes an upper gasket set that contains all the gaskets you need.

 

[candela]

Hey John if you want I do have my old head laying around from my car... i only sold the block Anyhow ill sell it cheep as hell. It would be cool to have a 1g head, and just get it refreshened and slap it on, cause I know you have that 1g IM already How bout like 100$ for the complete head, I also know of a pretty good/cheap place that can do a nice hot tank, resurface and w/e else you need. i also have sent my work to another very good guy in the past, he is expensive but does excellent work! Let me know either way,

AUstin

 

[Silent2g]

100 bucks for the head?
wowies. where do i sign up

john, list of what you will need.
stock HG {good for 30psi}
arp head studs. remember they make two kinds of them for a 2g. all depends on you which ones you want.

if you already have the other new gaskets. id say thats about it

 

[NA All The Way]

I can't believe someone hasn't mentioned to replace your roller rockers. they get pitted and create unsmooth valve operation.Do yourself a favor and replace them if you haven't done so allready.There a little expensive ( about 250.00 ) but if you have new cams don't be stupid, replace them with oem parts. As far as your gaskets go, either get a complete top end set at any auto parts store. A metal hg is not a bad choice, it just all depends on your intentions.Arp studs, again depends on your plans on boost. But never a bad idea.I mean if you want to replace them might as well go with the best.springs,seats,retainers,keepers, all a must. Preferably I would go with crower titanium retainers and spring kit, it will cost you about the same as oem and is a lot more durable.Hydralic lifters, just make sure that they are free moving and smooth. If you have the money it's not a bad idea but not a necesity.Botom line is replace what needs it.

 

[DSMu4ia]

Originally posted by NA All The Way
I can't believe someone hasn't mentioned to replace your roller rockers. they get pitted and create unsmooth valve operation.Do yourself a favor and replace them if you haven't done so allready.There a little expensive ( about 250.00 ) but if you have new cams don't be stupid, replace them with oem parts. As far as your gaskets go, either get a complete top end set at any auto parts store. A metal hg is not a bad choice, it just all depends on your intentions.Arp studs, again depends on your plans on boost. But never a bad idea.I mean if you want to replace them might as well go with the best.springs,seats,retainers,keepers, all a must. Preferably I would go with crower titanium retainers and spring kit, it will cost you about the same as oem and is a lot more durable.Hydralic lifters, just make sure that they are free moving and smooth. If you have the money it's not a bad idea but not a necesity.Botom line is replace what needs it.

Ya listen to him and spend 4x the money you need to.

 

[GSX_RCR]

Originally posted by Dsmed
Can I convince you to atleast smoothly sand out the intake runners on the intake manifold and the intake side of the head? It'll be about 20 minutes of extra work and air flow will be a little smoother.

Personally, I would leave the IM runners just the way they are.

 

[GRNDSM]

>I can't believe someone hasn't mentioned to replace your roller rockers.
>they get pitted and create unsmooth valve operation.

What do you use for oil in your engines? Sunflower oil? . The only time that I have seen rollers go bad was on motors with failed timing belts and one motor which ran out of oil. Otherwise, they are very strong and do not tend to wear-out much. You can re-use them 99% of the time.

>well in that case, go with the ARP if you have the money to spare for them.
>If not then go with the OEM's.

He has a 2G with “stretch head bolts”, they shouldn’t be re-used on street motors. Never mind occasional race motors, which run high boost. Since you have to buy new bolts anyway ($35-$50), ARP studs on 93-99 motors are a no-brainer. 90-92 (big rod/6bolt) motors, on the other hand, can do very well on re-used stock bolts.

As for the gaskets, you should buy a head gasket kit. It comes with just about every gasket/seal/banjo bolt washer that you will need. Throttle body gaskets and injector O-rings and isolators are the only things that are not included.

Get new manifold nuts as well.

Leon
RR

 

[Silent2g]

im trying to figure out why someone you keep suggesting MHG's???

WHY????!!????!?!?


call and talk to buschar about them.

i have never had a problem with the stock hg when i was runnin 28 psi in my 95 gsx

 

[GSX_RCR]

Originally posted by Silent2g
im trying to figure out why someone you keep suggesting MHG's???

i have never had a problem with the stock hg when i was runnin 28 psi in my 95 gsx

WAS? So what happened?

j/k

I guess some people prescribe to the theory of "overkill", rather than having it fail later on down the line.

 

[DSMu4ia]

I would not run a Metal HG for a few reasons.

Unless you are expecting to blow a stock head gasket because of cylinder pressures (27psi+, and/or nitrous), then it's too much. You are risking blowing something in the motor (bending a rod, spinning a rod bearing, etc) before that metal head gasket gives. Not to mention the pain in the ass of getting it to seal (yes, some people can get them right the first time, others have to pull the head a few times to get it NOT to push water).

I know quite a few stock OEM HG's going past 130mph in the 1/4, which very very very few people on this site will ever see.

 

[NDgsx]

Torque To Yield hardward has no place in my engine, even if it's new. Get some ARPs.

My motto is do it right or don't bother. If you're just doing the intake manifold, then just replace your timing belt parts (if needed, I always replace the tensioner regardless of mileage), HG, and valve cover gasket. I don't see a whole lot of point in rebuilding half the engine when it doesn't need it.