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Greddy FMIC overheating

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JoeyGST

20+ Year Contributor
58
0
Sep 2, 2002
SF Bay Area, California
I installed a Greddy FMIC on the car and went driving up
some hilly roads nearby. A few minutes into the drive, I noticed
that my EGT readings were stuttering. Then I looked down at
my dash and realized that I was overheating like crazy.

I had to pull over and let it cool, then drive really slowly the
rest of the way.

Right now, I have about 50/50 coolant/water mixture. If I drain
it and adjust the mixture to about 25% coolant, 75% water,
would that help much?

Are there any other things I could try to fix this problem?
Someone suggested I fabricate somesort of deflector for the
bottom of the car to get more airflow to the radiator?

Doing 40-50mph in the slow lane, constantly monitoring the
temperature, and getting passed up by beat up old trucks and
stationwagons is not fun.
 
I have been curious as to the issues you would have with engine temps when using a fairly large FMIC such as a spearco 216 or even a 205. What problems does this cause with daily driving, and if it causes temperature problems are their any ways to avoid these by installing the intercooler or radiator in a different postition or location ?
 
Originally posted by larryd
what was the temperature out and how much boost were you running?

The ambient temperature was approximately 65 degrees, it was
night time after a hot day. I had the boost controller set to 15psi,
but I was barely running that, because I was doing part-throttle up
the hill the whole time.

Today I drove the car out on the highway, it was approximately
80 degrees. I wasn't even boosting, just driving a constant 75-80mph,
and I can see the temperature gauge rising above normal operating
temperature (rising past the middle).

I'd try Water Wetter, however, I hear that it corrodes and blocks up
water passages. The only other thing I can think of is making a custom
air deflector to try and move some air to the radiator. There was a
stock radiator shroud, I didn't put it back on the car, because I don't
think it'd fit with the FMIC in there.
 
Well, I have the Big Greddy also. I have found that if its Really hot ...like 95 degree's outside and I'm running the A/C and going like 75-80, the needle will start moving to the middle ..and this is hwy only driving. During city driving, I don't run the A/C because I don't get as good of airflow ..but this might be abit biased because right now I don't have the driver's side fan. I've posted before about temps. What actually is the normal 2g coolant temp with A/C fan on? 215? 206? Anyhow, I was thinking about cutting out the drivers side stock black piece on the front fascia and trying to route some air to the radiator. I also need to put my heat shield's back on, but I am very paranoid about my engine temps right now. This is my first summer with the Big I/C. I am running a 50/50 mix right now.

My temps with A/C on and hwy driving going 65-70 with 90 plus heat = 216-220 so as long as I never really get into boost (no more than 10psi).

My temps with A/C on and 80 heat same conditions as above 206-210.

So anyone have any solutions besides buying an expensive Aluminum thick radiator such as the Fluidyne? Before I get that desperate, I would like to try some other solutions. Also, anyone know what sort of temp dropoff's were after adding a Fluidyne type radiator were?

Thanks,
 
Originally posted by larryd
hmm, that doesnt sound right.. i had well over 80 degrees with the big28 @ 20lbs and the car wasnt overheating with the Greddy Large FMIC

Yeah, something seems to be wrong. I just talked with some other
guys who also have the Big Greddy FMIC, and they all have stock
fans with stock radiators, with no problems.

Larryd:
Do you have any custom shrouds or anything on your car leading
air to the radiator? Because right now, I have no shrouds.
The stock radiator shroud is not on the car (don't think it fits with
the FMIC in there)....theres just a huge gap where the sidemount
shroud was.

What brand of coolant do you use? And what is your water/coolant
mixture? Do you have Water Wetter in there?
 
Dude, put your fan shrouds back on, that may be the problem. You definitely shouldn't be overheating w/ the Greddy FMIC.
 
I have a same problem also. my mods are... just look at my profile... anyway, i have the big greddy FMIC... and my car almost overheats all the time... i even have the fluidyne radiator and one 12" SPAL fan (87CFM) and one 10" SPAL fan (650 CFM). but the temp only goes up when i'm going up hill or doing over 100 mph continuously in the hot days (80 - 100 deg.)

BTW, where is the stock radiator shrouds supposed to be at? and what does it look like?
 
Does the stock radiator shroud fit?

toshi128:
It's a big black plastic shroud that went in the front bumper gap.
With the FMIC sitting in the gap, I didn't think the shroud would still
fit, so that's why I just left it off and didn't bother trying to bolt it back
on.

If you have the fluidyne radiator and upgraded fans, and it still
overheats going up a hill, that sucks! I was thinking about buying the
fluidyne if it'd solve all my headaches....but I guess it's not a good bet.

tjh-dsm: Did your radiator shroud fit with FMIC in there?
 
I have a black car, and live in the middle of the desert -- 110 degrees all the time.

With the AC on at WOT, I'd hit 220 max -- I keep my fans on all the time in the summer.........

-Keep your stock fans
-get some kind of weatherstripping between your ac condensor and radiator.
-Get your radiator rodded out -- make sure there are no clogs


I have a fmic thats a little bigger then the greddy "large"... without problems
 
I have a radiator which is the same width and height as the stock one that came with my galant but it is 1 inch thicker. I do not have AC and am hoping that when I get the car put together that I wont have a problem driving around with a large FMIC like a spearco 216.
 
how high the water temp needle goes up when the car is warmed up??? and what's the temp at the moment? can you guys give me an idea of this like the needle goes to the middle line and the temp is blah blah. since i think i messed up on putting the needle back on after changing my gauge...
 
Well... on my peice of crap when it's at the top of the little symbol it's at about 222......

although, my car is weird all toghether :)
 
I Will have to go and look, but I don't think I have my shroud's in either because just a pita to make them fit. I would say that when the line hits the middle, then you are around 227-230 temps. AC fan will shut off at 230. Car will pull timing when you temp gets like 216 Plus ..I can't remember the exacts, but its like 1 degree up to a certain point, then it will pull another degree after that. After I get my other fan wired tonight, I'm going to see how it cools.

BLACK95GSX: So you don't have any problems in town and stop and go traffic? I really don't have any problems at night once the temp has gone down to like 80F outside, I can drive 80 no problem and don't even bother running the A/C then. What is your typical coolant temp with A/C on driving 70 and in traffic?

Thanks,
 
one more question... when you turn on your engine.. and when it's warmed up... how high is your gauge? lower than middle? and how much lower?
 
Originally posted by Violater101


BLACK95GSX: So you don't have any problems in town and stop and go traffic? I really don't have any problems at night once the temp has gone down to like 80F outside, I can drive 80 no problem and don't even bother running the A/C then. What is your typical coolant temp with A/C on driving 70 and in traffic?

Thanks,

205-215 depending on humidity.

No problems in stop and go traffic when it's 110+ out.

Only time I have a problem is if I'm ragging on the car hard -- for a few min (not just 1/4 passes). At which point I realize I forgot to turn the AC off -- once I turn it off I'm fine.



What I find funny is when a lot of people complain about over-heating there cars -- they have the AC on.

Who the hell races with the AC on :laugh:


My temp gauge stays in the middle almost all the time.
 
haha... no one races with their AC on... i dunno about others.. but i need AC... i can't stand the heat... it's cool when it's warm.. but i can't stand the heat in So Cali.... or in the valley.... too hot for me...

What is the range of normal operating water temp?
Why does AC fan shuts off at 230 deg?
 
The AC fan doesn't shut off -- the AC compressor shuts off.

Your AC system adds heat to your cooling system -- it shuts off at 230 degress to save your motor.-- allows the car to work harder cooling the motor off vs the motor and the passangers
 
Compressor shut's off...that's what I meant. Also, agreed .who races with there A/C on. Whenever I notice that I might be running a tad hot, I just turn off the A/C and turn on the defroster and watch the temps go down. I doubt I will have any problems in town once I get the Spal hooked up tonight. We don't have 110 heat, but we do have 98 heat with High Humidity. Its a totally different sort of hot if you know what I mean. My old job relocated to Phoenix and I had to go there a few summer's back so I know what its like there.

On a side note, i'm also thinking about buying a front lip which is supposed to direct air under the car better. There like 165 bucks or so I think from MachV. Plus they don't look half bad :) LOL

I don't know what else you could do with a front mount like that that covers the entire front of the car. I suppose some allow more air to pass through than others.
 
defroster? as in the rear windshield defroster?
hrm, i wonder if it'd be a better solution than blasting hot air to my face??? :confused:

ya, i bet it gets hotter than hell in texas... and humided... i hate that nasty feeling of humidity... since i'm originally from japan, and the summer there is horrible... the temp itself isn't too bad, but the humidity there is worse than here.

I have the fluidyne radiator plus 12" and 10" spal fans, the city driving is cool, but when i'm driving on the uphill and freeway... it's not cool...

which front lip are you talking about? the RM spoiler? i thought it doesn't direct any air but to keep the front of your car lower...
 
Originally posted by Violater101
Compressor shut's off...that's what I meant. Also, agreed .who races with there A/C on. Whenever I notice that I might be running a tad hot, I just turn off the A/C and turn on the defroster and watch the temps go down. I doubt I will have any problems in town once I get the Spal hooked up tonight. We don't have 110 heat, but we do have 98 heat with High Humidity. Its a totally different sort of hot if you know what I mean. My old job relocated to Phoenix and I had to go there a few summer's back so I know what its like there.

On a side note, i'm also thinking about buying a front lip which is supposed to direct air under the car better. There like 165 bucks or so I think from MachV. Plus they don't look half bad :) LOL

I don't know what else you could do with a front mount like that that covers the entire front of the car. I suppose some allow more air to pass through than others.


Humidity does suck -- we know it well here, it's been 70+% for the past month.

A friend of mine had some overheating problems with his apexi fmic setup (for an eclipse... the smaller core)-- we used weatherstripping between his ac condensor and radiator, put in a 16lb rad cap, new OEM thermostat, a 13" pusher fan mounted infront of the condensor and removed allt he factory plastic ducting -- that was being crushed by the FMIC piping and hurting flow.

When we were done, we noticed the car wouldn't go past 210 no matter how hard we beat on his car.... I mean we literally beat the living $hit out of this car for a good half hour trying to make it heat up -- long as the AC was off, it didn't ever go above 215.

one thing that I think helped a lot is removing the factory ducting that was hitting the fmic -- this allowed air to flow OVER the top of the FMIC and go to the radiator -- whereas the air was just beign blocked from that part of the radiator all together before -- prior to that only the bottom of the radiator was getting any decent air flow
 
I need to clean up my front fascia in teh front from when I cut it originally to fit. I might take it off this weekend and look for some things I can do to direct some air to the radiator.

Anyone know out of curiosity which blue wire is the best source for power on the stock plug that connects to the fan? There are 3 blue wires with various stripes and a black wire which is ground I am assuming. My spal only has a power and ground.
 
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