porting the 14b?

[crash27578]

I'm going to port my turbo when or if my new eliminating downpipe from RNR ever comes in!!! I was wondering about what grit sanding tool should I finish with?

 

[jott5555]

in curious about this too i ve a 02 and 14b i wanna port and polish with a dremel or a pheunmatic grinder which is best to use and what grits? or bits to do the accual porting and polishing?

 

[Tallen]

If you want to actually port a turbo...the right way. Search Ebay and get a set of carbide bits for a pneumatic grinder. A dremel, haha, you'd be working for hours...i mean days.

 

[4pistons]

Like Tallen said, you need carbide bits to do any porting. You also need a pnuematic or professional Heavy Duty Electric die grinder (expensive!) A dremel tool just won't do it. If all you had to do was smooth over some casting flash it'd be OK but you gotta remove alot of material for the porting to be effective and a Dremel just can't do it. Besides a Dremel has a 1/8" collet and any good carbide bit will be at least 1/4".

As far as polishing is concerned it isn't necessary. The carbide bits leave a smooth enough finish.

Rick - '91 GSX

 

[jbillakdsm]

Just send it to me and I'll do it for cheap. I have an entire machine shop at my disposal. It's super easy to do when you have everything from a die grinder and carbide bits for the initial hogging out to a jig grinder that makes holes perfect within 2/10,000ths of an inch. I've done my own, some local, and a couple for guys on the board. PM me if you're interested.

 

[crash27578]

Thanks for the info.

 

[LessIsMore]

Like 4pistons said polishing isn't necessary since the carbide bit leaves a smooth enough finish. Buscher dosn't even polish his turbos, they end up coated in carbon anyway.

 

[jbillakdsm]

There is some point to doing a little bit of polishing. The more you polish the surface, the less area of resistance you are going to make inside the runner. Granted it will get covered in some carbon, but you won't end up with carbon caked on the inside.

 

[jott5555]

what type of bits do you use? i realize carbide is the type but what size, shape ect... ne part numbers r ok too

 

[4pistons]

what type of bits do you use? i realize carbide is the type but what size, shape ect

I use a rounded bit with straight sides most of the time. A smaller diameter ball tip is useful along with something with a point to get into tight places. I usually find mine at swap meets and car shows. The vendors with all the tools sell them for $5 to $10 each and have a huge assortment.

There is some point to doing a little bit of polishing.

It's not really worth the time. If you smooth everything out with the carbide there is a slight roughness but not enough to hurt flow by any measurable amount and it doesn't collect any more carbon than the stock casting. If you were doing the intake on a N/A car it might be a different story. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything to do it, though.

Rick - '91 GSX

 

[jbillakdsm]

I agree with 4pistons, the porting certainly doesn't hurt, but you're not going to get any measurable gain out of it other than personal satisfaction and good looks before install.

I've found that the easiest way to get a nice finish without doing any polishing is to use two different carbide burrs. The first one I use is a double-cut (for getting the heavy stuff out) ball-end (for reaching as far down in as possible). Next I use a single cut version of the same burr to get a smoother finish. I use both of these in a pneumatic-controlled die grinder so I can get the right speed. You can use an electric one, but you have to be careful not to push too hard and gum up the burr. The burr's shank diameter, head diameter, and length of cut are all up to you. Go to http://www.mcmaster.com and type in carbide burr. The third one down in the left column is a good one.

 

[bdropped]

I use the tree shape carbide burr. from matco tools (life time warrenty).

 

[gsx tryin' 4 hp]

i ported mine today with a pneumatic die grinder and a conical bit

but....i was just wondering how much farther to go? how much more porting should i do after taking the intial top collar off...and how far in to the housing should i go (depth wise)?

an actual to the tenth of an inch measurement from mounting plate would be great!

thanks for any help.

 

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

It looks like you did o.k. with removing the step, now you have to smooth it out as much as possible. Try smoothing it down a little more with the grinding stones and then switch to your sanding bits for the final touch. tip: i usually start with one sanding bit, use it for a while till the grit gets grinded down kinda smooth, but not completely gone. Then i switch to another grit a tad smoother then the first one, then after that gets it pretty nice, i put the first sanding bit i used that is wore down back on and it gives it a really smooth surface.

hope this help. later

 

[jbillakdsm]

An easier way to get this nice and smooth is to get some paddle sanders and use them. Grinding wheels are nice, but you have to be real smooth in your motions to get a nice finish. A paddle sanding wheel is easy and pretty cheap.

 

[1FAST2G]

I would remove the turbine housing from the turbo. You wouldn't want any small peices of metal getting in your oil or coolant holes. All you have to do is unbolt that clamp and they will separate easy.

 

[jbillakdsm]

Not necessarily, I unbolted my clamp and still had to use a screwdriver with a sand-filled hammer and about 30 hard hits to get mine to separate. I admit this wasn't the safest way to get them apart, but it was literally the only way it was going to happen. I guess after 100K it gets relucatant to separate.

 

[gsx tryin' 4 hp]

well thanks for helping me out guys.....but i should have just searched a little more like usual because two seconds after posting i searched trusty old vfaq and they came through again....http://www.vfaq.com/mods/porting-turbo.html

this page answered all of my questions and a few of crash27578 's

o well at least my porting went fine and i have a pic to show for it

also i agree with jbillakdsm about the paddle wheels they work nice and easier than a steady hand with stones


also about getting metal in the openings, i didn't have a problem with this because i had plenty of plastic cap plugs laying around my hydrualic shop

 

[jbillakdsm]

Hey, do you know if you can get any small "Y" switches that have an electronic control. I make dual-stage MBCs and use them to make an in-cabin switch. The guy who was supplying me went out of business.