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TimG

N/T Moderator
Moderator
1,547
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Jun 28, 2002
Aurora, ON, Canada
My FMIC is killing my engine-bay temperatures. The only way I can keep them around normal is to take out my thermostat and have both my fans running full time. That isnt even reliable. They cut in and out now for no apparent reason. They used to be reliable but one day, they decided they only wanted to work 1/2 the time.

I cut nostrils out of my front bumper to help my rad breath a bit and took the black rubber lining off from around the engine bay to let some hot gases escape. Is there any other way to keep my engine bay temperatures below 200 degrees reliably? Can I rig up slim fans to the battery being operated on a cockpit switch? Does anyone know anyone who has done this successfully or had success bringing engine bay temperatures down? How much will exhaust wrap help if I wrap my manifold?
 
Invest in slim line puller fans for the rear of your rad...they flow HUGE amounts of CFM and are great man...As well as consider and upgraded rad, they are a bit of money but do an excellent job of cooling our 4G's...those with the HiPo fans will keep things chilled...
 
When my rad has air flowing through it, the engine is cooler then a cookie. But once those unreliable fans stop (not sure if it's wiring related), the temps go sky high. Anyone have a v-faq on buying a slimfan and wiring it up to a switch and the battery? I have basic wiring abilites and believe I can do it, but I like a little guidance or instructions.
 
perhaps you should look into a supra sidemount or something like that.
 
Most people that rally talons, run either a copper or aluminum radiator
with a lower temp thermostat (160 or 180) and cut a big hole in the bumper and hood........ You can drop 20degs with a hole in the hood....

I run a cheap cfs copper rad. with a 180 thermo and a pair of 11 tripac 900 cfm fans, but I dont have a front mount for that very reason......

NO drag or street car will ever see what abuse a rally car gets....

Larry
#622 club rally
 
hey man ive had the same problem with my irc. what i did was i found a thermastate for 160*, greddy rad cap, fluydine radiator, dual fal fans, and i ceramic coated my exhaust manifold, dump tube and o2 housing
 
Check your the radiator mounted thermo switch. Check you thermostat. Check the fans......... sounds like you might also have a faulty fan?

Take the radiator out and get it flushed or cleaned. Maybe clogged with deposits.

Old school hot rid tricks...

Add some shims to the hood brackets to make the rear of the hood sit up a little. Allows more flow of air out the cowl area. You might also try removing the seal that is located on the cowl.

Run some lines off extra water ports on the heads. Personally I've done this on a 454. I ran extra lines from the ports on the sides and front of the block to the radiator. It dropped the temp 20+ degrees. Of course, there are no extra ports on the DSM heads so you'd have to drill and tap some.
 
Originally posted by Morphius
Add some shims to the hood brackets to make the rear of the hood sit up a little. Allows more flow of air out the cowl area. You might also try removing the seal that is located on the cowl.


Wrong. The cowl is a high pressure area, if you lift it up or remove the seal, air will go IN to the engine bay from the base of the windshield, not out of it.
 
Originally posted by kpt4321
Wrong. The cowl is a high pressure area, if you lift it up or remove the seal, air will go IN to the engine bay from the base of the windshield, not out of it.

Dependant upon speed. I don't have my books in front of me, but if I recall correctly, at speeds lower than 30mph, aerodynamics is considered negligable. That area won't be high pressure.

And for those conditions, I am right. My previous post is correct for low speed conditions. AND why that trick of old, was developed. Most likely, he is having issues with in city traffic than highway. Hence his post:

Originally posted by TimG
When my rad has air flowing through it, the engine is cooler then a cookie.

At speed, he will have airflow. Enough, that the fans aren't needed.
 
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