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Solved Crank Walk on 7-bolts? BS?...

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Sk8er07999

20+ Year Contributor
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Oct 30, 2003
Denver, Colorado
I didn't know where to post this question but I wanted at least some decent educated responses so I decided to post it in the intermediate section. Well I did a 4G63 search on ebay and just out of curiosity clicked on an add for a "2.0 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE TALLON 4g63 TURBO". It says in the description that they offer both 6 and 7-bolt motors but what intrested me was what it said a little further down.

"2.0L DOHC 4G63 TURBO MITSUBISHI REMANUFACTURED REBUILT ENGINE-I ALSO HAVE THE NON TURBO IN STOCK TOO!I HAVE BOTH 6 AND 7 BOLT, AND WE HAVE SOLVED THE CRANK WALK PROBLEM ON THE 7 BOLT".

Here is the link to the item: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=2448436020

So I decided I would send this guy an email and see what he says. Just out of curiosuty I acted like I was really intrested in getting a motor from him so I would get a faster response. This is the email I sent him:

"How have you solved the common crankwalk issue associated with the
7-bolt 4g63's? I am interested in a 6-bolt motor would you accept
a 7-bolt as a core exchange? I noticed you offer a 3 year warranty
can you please explain more? If something happens to the engine
do I have to pay to ship it back and forth to you? What's all covered
in the warranty? The most important question I would like answered
is how you may have solved the crankwalk issue. I am only intrested
in the answer for my personal experience. I still don't trust the
7-bolts and intend to buy a 6-bolt no matter what. So I would like to know what you think."

As soon as I hear back from him I will post his answer to the question. I think it's BS and I wanted to see what you guys think of it. I can't wait to see what he says about the crank walk. Anyone else know of a possible fix for crank walk?
 
Interesting ebay post. I looked at some of his other motors too. See the pics of that plant they are working in? Wow..

Regardless I still don't think I would be trusting a 7-Bolt motor. The only cure to crankwalk is a 6-bolt. Your chance of running into a problem with a 6 bolts are slim to none.
 
Here is his answer:

please call the plant 1.866.364.4630

mark
 
Originally quoted by dizzygsx<br>BUCK's link is to my recent post. I'm telling you from experience that a reman 7 bolt will crank walk. Don't believe anything else. Mine only last for 6k miles.

So someone ####ed up on your block again.. I've got almost 4000 miles on a block I rebuilt by hand with the concept racing crank alignment kit..

Crankplay has not moved past .0036" in almost 2700 miles..

So your stubborn ass can believe whatever you wish, but my engine is living proof that blocks that walk can be rebuilt and not walk again.
 
2700 miles isnt enough to prove anything yet. Make it to 27000 miles without it walking and then we might have something.
 
I haven't read much into crank walk as I have a 6 bolt engine, so dont flame me on this. But couldn't you just put shims in like you can on older engines?
 
Originally posted by DSMJim
The only cure to crankwalk is a 6-bolt. Your chance of running into a problem with a 6 bolts are slim to none.

Wrong. I know lots of people who have crankwalked 6-bolts. The illusion that they are perfect is wrong.
 
Originally posted by kpt4321
The illusion that they are perfect is wrong.

I wouldn't consider the six-bolt perfect, just FAR superior to the seven-bolt. A seven-bolt is manageable if you are car-savvy...just replace the thrust bearing when things get out of spec, its cheaper and easier than swapping in a six-bolt! mike
 
Originally posted by kpt4321
Wrong. I know lots of people who have crankwalked 6-bolts. The illusion that they are perfect is wrong.

In comparison to a 7 bolt they are perfect, and are also the perfect replacement for a crankwalked 7 bolt, so your opinion of what is and what is not perfect is subjective.

The fact is, 7 bolts have a very high chance of crankwalk vs. a 6 bolt with a very low chance so for somebody like my self who will likely be forced to swap in a 6 bolt next year, it's close enough to perfect for me.
 
Well, the way I see it, this "alignment kit" might be useful in buying time. I was looking for something like this since I don't have enough money to do a 6bolt swap. So thanks!:thumb:
 
Originally posted by kpt4321
Wrong. I know lots of people who have crankwalked 6-bolts. The illusion that they are perfect is wrong.

Whats lots?? 2?? Give me a break, he was saying the chances of running into a huge problem like w/ the 7 bolt is significantly decreased by throwing a 6 bolt in. And out of the two that you can swap in, what motor would be the perfect choice :|
 
eliminate the piston squirters and solve your crankwalk problem.

i have 36 000 on my engine and no problems.
 
Overhyped crap...any engine can walk...doesnt matter what brand or model. If the machining process for 7 bolts didnt have sand or whatever someone dropped in it 6 bolt drivers would be swaping for our blocks. enough said
Andrew
 
Originally posted by 96TSi_Chris
Whats lots?? 2?? Give me a break, he was saying the chances of running into a huge problem like w/ the 7 bolt is significantly decreased by throwing a 6 bolt in. And out of the two that you can swap in, what motor would be the perfect choice :|

Actually, there is a member of this board who has crankwalked 2 or 3 6-bolts JUST HIMSELF.

And another friend of mine has crankwalked one or two.

Yes, the 6-bolt is much better. The point is, it's not perfect. End of story.
 
Originally posted by stock1g4g63
Well, the way I see it, this "alignment kit" might be useful in buying time. I was looking for something like this since I don't have enough money to do a 6bolt swap. So thanks!:thumb:

:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
www.crco.com

Best $54 I've ever spent on this car. All this elminate the oil squirters and other "answers" haven't done anything to help the 7bolt owners.
 
i believe first gen squirters are fine. the reasson being it is right after of the oil pump sending passage. the 2nd gens squirters get the oil from the passage that supplies the crank and rod bearings oil. to me after testing the squirters some opened at only 12 psi of oil pressure. too low others opened at 25 psi which was the psi of a brand new one i had tested. there is a ball valve in there with a spring on the 2nd gen squirters and to me they tend to act differently. all seemd to be openning at different psi. it is my opinion only
so slap me down if you want yes i am a nooB but i have been around a while and keeping my mouth shut.

thanks

IW,
 
1st gen oil squirter.
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2nd gen location, notice where it is and how it is fed oil.
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here is a 2nd gen squirter
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it is supposed to open at 25psi +or - a few psi. but if it opens at 14 psi or less the crank does not get enough oil to stay off of the bearings and causes premature wear.

just an opinion.
 
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