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New rings, what else?

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tsunari

20+ Year Contributor
1,030
34
Feb 12, 2003
Jessup, Maryland
Ok. . . looks like I'm going to have to drop the oil pan and put a new set of rings in. Question is. . . while I'm down there, what else should I do??

So far, I'm thinking of :
+Balance shaft eliminator
+Hone cylinders
+Belts

Anything else? Pistons perhaps?
 
ahh? WTF are you smoking. Drop an oil pan and put a new set of rings in it? I don't think anybody will get back at your at that one because it makes no ####en sence!!!
If u are talking about replacing rings on your pistons that's going to be a different story. You might be suprised how much shit you will actually have to take off. OIL PAN LMFAO. So yeah, I will get back to you when you figure out what you want to do
 
I did all of your list & the front seals - harmonic balancer, tensioner & pulleys - P/S return hose re-routing - ditched the water to oil cooler - new water pump, etc, etc... No better time - you have to rip out most of that as interfence anyway... about $2K in parts but I bought new rods, new pistons & 2G Exhaust manifold.
 
Originally posted by ABK
ahh? WTF are you smoking. Drop an oil pan and put a new set of rings in it? I don't think anybody will get back at your at that one because it makes no ####en sence!!!
If u are talking about replacing rings on your pistons that's going to be a different story. You might be suprised how much shit you will actually have to take off. OIL PAN LMFAO. So yeah, I will get back to you when you figure out what you want to do

First of all, I'd like to apologize for being both human and for not being omnipotent. As for the dropping the oilpan idea, I thought the rods and pistons could be snuck out the bottom, but I guess the crank inevitably gets in the way. :rolleyes:

Buck -- thanks for the response ;)
 
unfortunately.. Your are going to have to unbolt the head to get to piston rings. Unless your rings are shot, I wouldn't do it now, and just do a rebuild later when you save up some more money to do a complete rebuild (with some aftermarket parts, if you wish). But then, If you are burning oil, I would take my head off to change out some rings too...
 
Originally posted by ArticNemesis
unfortunately.. Your are going to have to unbolt the head to get to piston rings. Unless your rings are shot, I wouldn't do it now, and just do a rebuild later when you save up some more money to do a complete rebuild (with some aftermarket parts, if you wish). But then, If you are burning oil, I would take my head off to change out some rings too...

Well the problem I'm having is not visibly burning oil (losing maybe 1 qt every 3k miles), but compression problems. I have 160, 187, 185, 183 (1-4). I'm going to try the MCCC cleaning this weekend to see if that helps anything out, but with that big of a difference between highest and lowest cylinder . . . should I really be driving on it?:confused:
 
noticed any driving problems lately.? usually, rings will go out relatively at the same time.. Are you sure there is something wrong with your rings.?

Other possiblities to low compression in a cylinder are headgasket and bent valves... Have you checked either of these yet.?

(I would hate for you to go buy new rings, when you pull the head, and see a chunk of your headgasket missing. or worse yet, you replace the head gasket and rings, and it turned out to be your valves causing the compression problem.)
 
Originally posted by ArticNemesis
noticed any driving problems lately.? usually, rings will go out relatively at the same time.. Are you sure there is something wrong with your rings.?

Other possiblities to low compression in a cylinder are headgasket and bent valves... Have you checked either of these yet.?

(I would hate for you to go buy new rings, when you pull the head, and see a chunk of your headgasket missing. or worse yet, you replace the head gasket and rings, and it turned out to be your valves causing the compression problem.)

Hmmm- I see what you mean. How would I know it's valves? I've done a wet test and the compression in that cylinder seemed to jump up quite a bit when oil was added (up over 200psi actually). As for something wrong with the head gasket . . . I haven't noticed any oil in my coolant just yet, and don't have the equipment to do a leak-down test. And the only real 'problem' I've noticed lately as far as performance is concerned, is she seems to not be starting up as quick as before, but perhaps that has something to do with the weather . . .
 
This is how you do a compression test. You take a compersion gauge. Stick it in where the spark plugs go. If you get bad compersion, take a cap of oil and just pour it in there. Crank the engine like 2 times if you get good compersion reading then, it means that your rings a fried, otherwise it's either your headgasket or valves.

SINCE you've done the wet test it means you got fried rings, therefore replace your rings, get your head surfaced and maybe a valve job, plus you will need a new headgasket, since your are going there might as well change your timing belt. Looks like alot of money and work.
 
Well, now that you mention you've done the wet test, It does point to the rings, but it is strange how only one is at 160 and the rest are in the 180's.. They are usually right there around each other. Low compression will make it take longer to start the motor too b/c it has to build up compression before it can combust properly.
 
Originally posted by ABK
This is how you do a compression test. You take a compersion gauge. Stick it in where the spark plugs go. If you get bad compersion, take a cap of oil and just pour it in there. Crank the engine like 2 times if you get good compersion reading then, it means that your rings a fried, otherwise it's either your headgasket or valves.

SINCE you've done the wet test it means you got fried rings, therefore replace your rings, get your head surfaced and maybe a valve job, plus you will need a new headgasket, since your are going there might as well change your timing belt. Looks like alot of money and work.


Just be careful in that the oil could very well be filling up the piston dishes causing inflated compression readings. Get a leakdown tester and double check that way to be certain.
 
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