2.3L Shortblock ok for Daily Driver?

[Gooberlog]

I was on DiamondStarSpeacialties site and they sell a 2.3L stroker motor for less than most companies are selling stage 1 2.0blocks that are stock rebuilds, would the stroker motor work fine with my basic mods at first and would it be streetable for a everyday car? I'm looking to by a new shortbock this winter and this 2.3Stroker is cheaper than most stock rebuilds. Thanks for the imput experts.

 

[greathuskie]

a stock 2.3 isnt going to work....

 

[ph3r3d]

my 2.3L is just fine for daily driving..

i also deliver news papers in it =)

 

[RipperXX]

I would find out what kind of pistons, connecting rods and bearings they use if I were you. There may be a reasion it's cheaper than most.

 

[Gooberlog]

Well i found out the the stroker kit is just for all of the internals, how much wouldl it cost to stoke out the block to make this all work?

 

[pneumo]

The block doesn't get stroked, you just do a normal rebuild on your block and use the stroker kit to make it a 2.3 motor.

Oh, wait, you have a 93, which is a 7 bolt block, nevermind!

You have to get a 6 bolt block in order to use the 2.3 stroker kit, unless you want to take your chances rebuilding a 7 bolt block.

 

[Gooberlog]

Originally posted by pneumo
The block doesn't get stroked, you just do a normal rebuild on your block and use the stroker kit to make it a 2.3 motor.

Oh, wait, you have a 93, which is a 7 bolt block, nevermind!

You have to get a 6 bolt block in order to use the 2.3 stroker kit, unless you want to take your chances rebuilding a 7 bolt block.

Yeah i do have a 7bolt, but i'm not scared to build it up or rebuild it, i'm not worried about all of that 6bolt 7bolt talk, i think my engine will be fine. Plus once rebuilt, it wouldn't be likely for crankwalk to occurr soon anyway.

 

[rdrkt]

The only problem with a stroker of a 4g64 is that the cylinder wall wear is going to be a lot worse then on a 63 with a normal rod to stroke ratio. I would guess that a stroker with forged pistons is going to be hard on the block unless its built just right with a torque plate and the proper piston to wall clearance. But if it was done sloppy or the clearances are too loose you are going to get all sorts of slap and the wear associated with it. Now you have this in a car that starts in the dead of winter or does a lot of stopping and starting right away and you are going to have a car that will prematurely age. Does this mean it wont make a great daily driver? No it should do just fine Im just giving you all the facts.

 

[Gooberlog]

Well opposed to a stroker motor, what would you suggest for a cheap rebuild?

 

[pneumo]

How cheap do you want to go? I don't reccomend skimping on the machining because that's where the long term durability comes from. For a really basic rebuild you can get the full engine gasket set with new rings, belts, oil pump and bearings, but that assumes your cylinder walls are still smooth and perfect. If not, the parts list gets bigger, and so does the cost.

Check out www.importperformance.com they have tons of OEM style parts, rebuilt kits, complete engines, shortblocks, heads, etc. At least that will give you an idea of how much the different options will cost. Buying a complete motor isn't such a bad option either, since you avoid most of the headaches and downtime.

 

[allwheelTSI]

go full '64.

 

[Gooberlog]

Pneumo, That link you posted was just a link to a bunch or ricey stuff. I was looking for rebuild stuff. I see that SlowBoyRacing has rebuild kits and racing shortblocks? With 143,000 miles on my engine, do you think I'm better off just saving for a brand new short block when mine goes? Or do you think that i should rebuild my old engine.

 

[pneumo]

Whoops, sorry, I was going by memory when I wrote that link. Try www.ImportPerformanceParts.net click on 'Mitsubishi' then check out engines, also see cranks, Piston + rod combo. There's lots of interesting stuff.