heat shields

[Davy]

is there a way to run my car without the heat shields? I plan on upgrading to a big 16g later and I see alot of mitsu's with them took off. I have heard though that the heat from the turbo will damage other engine components if took off.

 

[marksae]

Keep the heat shields on. Other parts near-by will start melting if you leave them off. Mitsu put those there for a reason. Heat is always the enemy. Minimize it whereever you can.

 

[loreak]

ive driven for 3 years without heatshields on 2 dsm's, not a problem, anything thats going to melt with the heat shields off would melt with the heat shields on, as long as they arent laying on the manifold or turbo, its not gonna melt

i think its worth it to leave the top one on, then you can run the o2 sensor wire over it on the little holders, and it takes all of 2 seconds to remove, but the bottom one is a whore, i cut it to pieces and threw it away

 

[brads]

I melted my AC fan blades slightly with them off. This is even with ceramic coated exhaust parts. I guess a big FMIC, and 100+ degree weather don't help either. I reinstalled the heat shields, replaced the blade, and havent melted it(yet).

I'd leave them on. I would guess that it will still fit with your planned 16G upgrade. I have a 7cm mitsu turbine housing on my 50 trim turbo, and an EVO 3 O2 housing, and the heat shield bolt holes were still in the exact same spots on both of these parts, so the heat shield bolted right up.

Brad

 

[marksae]

What's the purpose of leaving them off? So they look cooler? The engine bay is way hotter when the car is warmed up. I guess on a 1g, you can get away w/o the heat shields because the radiatior is further away from the turbo. On a 2g, you have less room to work with and I've heard numerious stories about ppl's AC fan blades melting and deforming.

 

[Defiant]

Do a "melted fan" search and draw your own conclusions.

Mits didn't toss them on there for ballast.

 

[loreak]

it definately looks better with the heatshields on, unless your heatshield happens to be rusted a cracked in half like mine, so i havent run with it at all

ive never melted anything, and underhood temps really dont change much with or without heat shields, but if you have them and they are in good shape might as well use them

 

[GRNDSM]

Put another vote for leaving your manifold heat shield on! I have tried: the open manifold (which was OK), custom header (which was terribly hot) and Turbonetics T3 header (which was also very bad, until I wrapped it with header wrap, which looked like crap…). I hated them all and went back to stock manifold with a heat shield!

If you do not like the look of ugly 1G shield, just buy a 2G unit from BR for around $30. Check out photos of what the new 2G shield looks like on my car .

Leon
RR

 

[loreak]

that looks very nice, i think im going to order one from BR, i didnt know they were only 30 bux

 

[Mike 99GSX]

Side note- I bought some thermal tape from Jegs to wrap my O2 sensor wire and the vacuum hose coming off the compressor housing. I forget the brand name of the company but this stuff works awesome. Its not "header tape" Its smaller specifically to wrap wires and hoses with. I wrapped the wires to my fans where they connected to the motors also and haven't had any problems since. You can wrap your hands around the wrapped hoses with the engine fully hot near the manifold and they're actually cool to the touch! Just thought I'd pass that along. I'll look at the brand name if anyone wants to know what it is.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by Mike 99GSX
I wrapped the wires to my fans where they connected to the motors also and haven't had any problems since. You can wrap your hands around the wrapped hoses with the engine fully hot near the manifold and they're actually cool to the touch!

So.... all that heat is being held onto the wires and sensor, instead of dissipating out into the air... hm.... well, they might put up with it, but let us know if they don't, would you?

Anyone know how wrapping affects exhaust manifold life?

 

[Mike 99GSX]

Originally posted by Defiant
So.... all that heat is being held onto the wires and sensor, instead of dissipating out into the air... hm.... well, they might put up with it, but let us know if they don't, would you?

Anyone know how wrapping affects exhaust manifold life?

They don't hold the heat in, they block it off from entering. With temps that hot, the silicone vacuum hose would have split if all that heat was in there. I used to use platic split loom tubing before and the heat started to melt the plastic. Now I've got the wrap over the split loom and nothing is melted. I pulled a piece off tonight after the engine was hot and the vacuum hose was cool to the touch.

 

[Sotarts]

Try http://www.hpcoatings.com

They have the 'extreme' coat option, good to about 2,000 degress they claim.

Drops underhood temps up to 35% they claim.

Benefits are obvious. Read up at http://www.hpcoatings.com

Must send your parts to Oklahoma for coating.

This is the e-mail I received from them few days ago regarding my inquiry:

AOVSI,

*All threaded holes and studs properly masked off so the coating material
does not get into threads?
-Correct, we mask off all threads and all mating surfaces.

*What is the charge for coating of each item separately?
-4 cylinder turbocharged exhaust manifold (cast iron or tubular)
HiPerCoat Extreme (gray, E15, in color)
$250.00
$15.00 freight

-O2 housing
$60.00 (gray, E15, in color)
$10.00 freight

-Turbine housing
$60.00 (gray, E15, in color)
$11.00 freight

-If you sent all items at once $25.00 for freight.
I will not send any items out of our facility without insurance without a
written request to do so.

*What is the turnaround time?
-Delivery varies, currently we are about 10-12 business days at our facility.

*What's the best/fastest form of payment? Postal money order? Regular money
order? Personal check? I won't be using a credit card.
-Postal money order, regular money order, personal check are all fine and
neither will slow your order down.

Steven R. Dekker
General Manager

High Performance Coatings
Central Division
400 N. Glade Avenue
Oklahoma City, OK 73127
405-789-2888
405-789-2885 fax
www.hpcoatings.com
www.rebelrods.com
[email protected]




----- Original Message -----
From: "aovsi" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 7:06 PM
Subject: HPCoating Extreme inquiry.



> Hi,
>
> I'm considering having my car parts coated with the HP Extreme coating
> with gray in color. I'll be sending
>
> I have some questions in advance.
>
> The parts are:
>
> - 1. Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 3 (not the new EVO VIII, the EVO III that was
> released only in Japan) Exhaust Manifold. (For 4G63 Mitsu Engine) ( 11
> lbs. ) $200 value + coating value.
> - 1. Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 3 (from same car model as above) Oxygen
> Sensor Housing. ( 5 lbs. ) $175 value + coating value.
> - 1. Mitsubishi 7cm2 Turbo Housing. (For 4G63 Mitsu Engine) ( 8 lbs. )
> $225 value + coating value.
>
> All threaded holes and studs properly masked off so the coating material
> does not get into threads?
>
> What is the charge for coating of each item separately? (If I was to
> decide to coat only one piece, or only two pieces, or one pice at one
> time and other at other time...)
>
> What is the shipping charge for each item separately? With insurance?
> Without insurance? All at the same time? (UPS ground) (If I was to
> decide to coat only one piece, or only two pieces, or one pice at one
> time and other at other time...) Ship to zip code 60632, Chicago.
>
> What is the turnaround time?
>
> What's the best/fastest form of payment? Postal money order? Regular
> money order? Personal check? I won't be using a credit card.
>
> Thank you.
>
> - aovsi@*******.net
>

Opinions anyone?

 

[Mike 99GSX]

I got my AGP kit coated by Pro1motorsports(formerly PBC) I think. I basically did it for cosmetic reasons because I didn't like the look of the SFP manifold. It came out nice looking. I can't comment on the engine temps because I didn't have the kit installed without the coating but what I can tell you is the temp under the hood with this setup is significantly hotter than the previous 16g/mitsu setup. Things like my AFPR or brake cylinder are almost untouchable after I first open the hood. Not just during hard driving just normal. I don't know how much worse it would be uncoated but my advice would be to do it for cosmetic reasons if you care and not to expect much of a temp improvement.

 

[brads]

I can't say for certain, but HPC coatings look very similar to the ones I got from

http://capsbhc.com

Caps was a little less expensive, but it looks like they offer all of the same stuff as HPC. Basically, I got their 2000F coating on all my exhaust stuff, then the chrome look coating on the outside after that. It works some, temps did seem a little lower after I put it on, although I didnt measure them. I would be curious as to how thick the HPC coatings are. The Caps stuff isn't very thick, although that seems to be the norm.

The only place I have seen that has a much thicker coating is Swain Tech:
http://www.swaintech.com
They use .015-.020 thick coatings, while other people use much thinner(under .005 I think). They also claim over 50% heat reduction, so they sound like they might be worth looking into.

Like I posted before, even with the ceramic coating on, I managed to melt the blades on my AC fan with the heat shield off. So its still getting hot there.

Brad

 

[MNGSX]

Insulate the crap out of the manifold and down pipe then put the heat shields over it.

If a big turbo or aftermarket manifold is on the car do it too.

Just make your own from sheet metal and finish it the way you want it.

The sheild and insulation will prevent manifold cracks and keep heat in the exhaust flow and out of your engine compartment. The way it should be.

I'd start to look a way from the generic header wrap and towards the newer high temp engine insulating materials like that cable sleeve a previous poster was talking about. Same material in a big sheet.