CW prevention?

[BlackViper]

Well I got a better look at my engine now that I have it on a stand and the reason it died the day before spring break was the crank has a warp around the thrust bearing. The left side of the bearing is almost all gone and theres a nice sized ( shape in the side of my crank. Now I hear mostly that crankwalk happens to stick cars cause of the pressure from the trans. My car is an auto, which I prefer. What kinds of things can I do so that this doesn't happen again? Pissing me off that I have to drive another car, 2g eclipse nt. Man I can't stand driving something without a turbo after I been driving my Talon for the last 1 1/2 years. I'm buying re-conditioned engine soon cause I want to keep my broken one. I plan on doing a little powdercoating to certain parts and I don't want to have to drive the eclipse for any amount of time, while the stuff is being painted. My dad, who loves cars, thinks that the thrust bearing caused a huge loss of oil pressure the day it broke. My car was running great in the morning when I was driving to school, but after I got home and then went to work it felt like someone put the nt engine in it. The car broke a rod, warped the crank, and fried half the bearings I looked at so far. One last question...who knows what is pushing on the crank in DSM's that makes the thrust bearings erode away and kill the engines?




BlackViper

 

[DSMJim]

Dont even bother putting a 7 bolt back in then. Put in a 6 bolt and you will not have any problems in the future. There is absolutly no fix proven for a 7 bolt motor. Guys have tried everything under the sun to make them no crankwalk and they ALL eventually crankwalk no matter what.

Sorry to hear about your problems it sucks, but thats the problem with the 7 bolt and there is no solution, 10,000 people have tried 10,000 different things to have none of them work. I have a feeling there is NO fix. Don't even bother trying, skip Go and head straight to 6Bolt....

 

[jpolizo]

As a 2G owner in prime crankwalk territory ('97) I've thought about this a lot. One option is to go ahead and get another 7-bolt shortblock from Mitsubishi. Supposedly, the newer engines have a slight improvement in bearing design that may or may not help. In any case, most engines out of the box take a while to crankwalk even if it does happen again. Heck, my '97 is at 100K miles and no crankwalk yet.

The other option is to go with a 6-bolt conversion and that makes a good deal of sense if you want to build the bottom end of the motor. Then, of course, there is the stroker option ..... which is pretty interesting too.

 

[pneumo]

Since you're not afraid to tear an engine apart you might want to check out VFAQ.com in the Engine section there is a nice writeup called "Possible Crankwalk Fix" or something like that. At least it might help keep the spare engine working good enough.

 

[BlackViper]

Well found another engine for the Talon. its a 7bolt from Japan without intake and exhaust. The guy I talked to up in Chico where I'm getting it from said that he would replace the bearings and timing belt. I asked him about Mitsubishi and how they fixed crankwalk in newer cars and he told me theres a crank bearing somewhere that I haven't seen and they made that bigger or stronger. So I told him to give me one of those too. He also said you can get a shortblock from mitsu, but for 3800, which is kinda much. I'm going to get it on friday, maybe and monday the latest. Not going to get much sleep after that cause when I'm done with Talon I'm going to San Diego WHOO. The engine cost 1595 with 200 more for the new stuff I asked him for. One last thing I wanted to ask you guys was the difference between 6 and 7 bolt engines. Cuase I thought I had a 6bolt but I counted 7. I read awhile back about someone who got a 7bolt rebuilt and a week later it ate shit. I was under the impression that he choose a 7bolt instead of a 6 because its better. I guess that was way off, but I would still like to know which years got which bolt of engine? Thanks for the help all. Hopefully I'll be rid of the NT forever


BlackViper

 

[Tallen]

theres nothing you can do to avoid crankwalk...try church or voodoo

 

[jpolizo]

Unless I'm mistaken, Norco Mitsubishi lists a 2G turbo short block for a bit over $2K. Numerous aftermarket vendors offer them in that price range as well.

The "new" thrust bearing is not a proven crankwalk preventer. There are theories that the later model cars (late 98 and 99) haven't suffered crankwalk as much simply because they are newer. Who knows?

 

[Awdboost]

4G64 7-bolt should not CW. I've never heard of a non turbo CW. Plus the extra .4 litter are nice. Total 2.4