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My Dyno #'s

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twoboosted

20+ Year Contributor
178
0
Nov 20, 2002
south, North Carolina
Here are my dyno #'s,no fuel upgrades as you can see. This is also at 12psi.
 

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just in case it didn't work the first time.
 

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Getting really lean there at the end. Race gas or otherwise, if you dont take care of your fueling problem you pistons will be soup.

jeff
 
Are these #'s good aside from the lean conditions?


dejoon tool upper UIC,Intake pipe 3 1/2 & mbc
t3/t4 kit (turbo performance).
free mods ngk plug and wires.

Parts not installed fuel injectors 680 safc,afp, fuel pump,motor mounts and clutch.


Taking car of the fuel issue next weekend. I had no idea it was leaning out so much.
 
How the heck are you running a T3/T4 on stock fuel system? You are just asking for trouble! That's why your car is losing HP significantly at the upper rpms. Your ECU is pulling timing. You should be in the 10s for good power outside (which will inherently raise your a/f ratio). You are probably running leaner outside and less HP too.

-M
 
So I'll take it that these aren't good #'s? I'm going to install the fuel upgrades this weekend. I just wanted to get some base line runs, an idea of what the turbo will do.
 
Ok guys can you either of you give me a little more infor then this? How am I missing a 100hp?

The car is this lean on stock injectors and fuel pump.
 
I think everyone is saying not to run your t3/t4 setup on a stock fuel system. Install proper mods to run a turbo like that adn you will make more power. I guess 230hp for 12 psi isnt too shabby. Get everything else installed so you dont #### up the car!
 
Originally posted by twoboosted
Ok guys can you either of you give me a little more infor then this? How am I missing a 100hp?

The car is this lean on stock injectors and fuel pump.

Just for a comparison for you, I made 224.8 whp and 203 lb's of torque running a 9:1 ratio(untuned) on a t-28. you should be making alot more power than that
You need fuel badly. If you keep running the motor like that your going to have to fork out the cash for an engine rebuild. Also, invest in a logger of some sort. just my .02
 
dude your car is going to be sick when you install the fuel mods and tune it out and boost it. Good luck...and not those arent good numbers for a t3/t4, but still is decent for basci mods(other than the turbo)
 
Don't get too discouraged, Those #'s are about right for only running 12 psi. The A/F ratio line shows you run lean at higher rpm, so you are right at the max the stock fuel system can handle. I'd recomend you first get a pump upgrade, rewire the pump and get a logger. With that you should be able to turn up the boost to 15 psi. Then think about some type of fuel controller, like Apex SAFC, then step up to larger injectors. Take it one step at a time, learn as you go. You won't automatically blow up the engine just because you have a T3/T4 as long as you keep the boost levels on par with the fuel system.

Have Fun!
 
Thanks for all the help the fuel will be taken care of this weekend. I have one last question have any of you seen a t3/t4 kit flat line like this before in the upper rpm? The kit I'm using came from turbo performance in cali.
 
rdrkt, is it possible that you could tell me if these are good #'s without the trim spec's?
 
What I think... pretty much a sum of what all of them said^^^^^^

how much boost were you running? with the fuel mods and a fmic you could run probably 22 psi if you logged and tuned it correctly
 
Originally posted by twoboosted
rdrkt, is it possible that you could tell me if these are good #'s without the trim spec's?
I did those types of numbers on a 14b so regardless of trim the numbers are bad. BUT if you gave me the specs I could tell if your turbo is capable of making good power.
 
Most DSM's have a flat dyno sheet like that. It's a sign of good useable power.

One thing I noticed is that the power falls off quickly at 6500 rpm, that's not normal. Typical DSM's will show the power gradually dropping off starting at 6000, but it shouldn't dive like yours did. I'm thinking it's from lack of fuel (again) at high rpm, leading to knock and timing getting pulled. It could also be from intake or exhaust restrictions, or a combination of all that.
 
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