Which AFPR should I get?

[DeadlyScone]

Looking for a new fpr since my Buschur racing one is no longer supported for a rebuild kit(maybe someone can lead me to a site that sells them) I was thinking fuel lab for a fpr, I'am just not sure which one I would be better off getting.

Here is the website i was looking at 515 -6an, 515 -10an or 525.
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/home.php?cat=310

Which one would be best? Any other suggestions are welcomed too.

Thanks.

 

[kchaazz]

The A1000 with the -6AN adapters will be just fine. Wasnt the Buscur FPR similar to the Fullthrottle AFPR, that bolts to the rail as opposed to remote mount like the Aeromotive\AEM\Fuel Lab AFPRs? If so, you would of course want to get an entire kit, including fittings and hoses to go from the rail to the AFPR and to the return line, though Im sure you know that already. Also, I will mention that you should read this thread as some people have had some issues when buying AFPRs with "install kits". -techttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolth/433320-fpr-problem.html

 

[DeadlyScone]

Alright, Thanks.

 

[We're on Boost]

I've had a Fuelab 515 -6an since 2009 and it's been flawless.
For awhile I was running a fuel pressure sender to my logger, and I noticed that the response of the regulator to throttle changes was amazingly fast and accurate.
As far as comparing Fuelab to Aeromotive or AEM, I couldn't really say, I've only had the Fuelab. At the time, Emery at STM prefered Fuel Lab and that's probably why I bought one.
The fitting STM sold me that bolts on to the outlet end of the stock DSM fuel rail with a male an flare sticking out fit perfectly. The an and o-ring fittings at the regulator also worked perfectly.
I did have a problem (very slight leak) with the Russell fittings for the hoses. They were the "swivel" type hose fittings. There is an o-ring in the swivel. The leaks were past that o-ring. O-rings should not leak. I think there must have been a problem with how the metal surfaces were machined that the o-ring seats on, probably not smooth enough. Eventually (like 6 months later) they did stop leaking. Probably the o-rings eventually bedded in to the imperfections on the metal surfaces. That's my theory anyway. In the future I will probably try the non-swivel fittings. Less convenient during assembly, but should be ok.

 

[codeofdastreets]

I had the -6 515 fuel lab regulator on my last setup with no problems.. This setup I upgraded to the -10 515 fuel lab regulator... I perfer fuel lab because 1) alot of cool color choice's and 2) they are a few dollor's cheaper then aeromotive...

Now to the point-If your car doesnt run -8 feed or bigger I'd got with the 515 -6 fuel lab

 

[nad1]

I'd go with an Aeromotive. I had a FuelLab to begin with because it went with my color scheme, and the diaphragm ripped after like 9 months. I've heard of tons of people having really good luck with FuelLab stuff though, maybe I just got a bad one.

 

[We're on Boost]

Now to the point-If your car doesnt run -8 feed or bigger I'd got with the 515 -6 fuel lab

Right, and the stock feed line all the way from the tank to the fuel rail is about 5/16" ID. I want to retain the stock steel tube that runs under the car, which is no bigger than 5/16 ID. -6 hose ID is just a little bigger than 5/16", so a good match. The bore in the -6 fittings is a little smaller than 5/16". But so what, I was shocked when I took my new Walbro 255 out of the box and looked at the outlet spud. The actual hole in that outlet is way small. I'm not going to say a number now because I don't remember what I measured it at, but it was a lot smaller than 1/4". So there you go.