Greddy BOV help

[Bd1000Eclipse]

i installed my greddy bov and have had some problems.. so i was hoping you guys could help me out.
1) i couldn't run it vented, understandable
2) it worked fine for a while and then today it felt like i was loosing boost
so i adjusted the top nut, and kept adjusting.. i tightening it down a ways, and still didn't get compressor surge.. still wasen't running well so i decided ahh what the hell lets try it vented.. well it runs pretty good.. i was getting the flutter that sounds like a turkey so i backed off the top adjustment and it seems to run ok.. so what am i doing wrong? do i need to tighten the spring more? i'm running 15lbs on a 91tsi.. thanks

 

[KRAZYKOREAN]

Check for leaks...

 

[hoffman]

dont hook up the bottom nipple. dont vent to atmosphere. be patient with the adjustments

yeah......check for leaks

 

[Green93TalonTSi]

do u guys leave the bottom nipple open or cap it off. I got my Greddy used from a friend and he had it capped off, so do I leave it like that or take the cap off ?

 

[hoffman]

take it off

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

I'll give you my experience with the Greddy BOV. First, DO NOT CAP the bottom nipple. Off Greddy's website they say not to cap the bottom nipple under any circumstance. Second, the bottom nipple does have use. I spoke the Dejon Tool and they actually a device to provide equal pressure to the top and bottom nipple to ensure the BOV opens properly. Mine currently will flutter at lower boost when you let off the gas. Now, your problem sounds like a boost leak of some sore. Check that Greddy gasket they give you. It blows if you ask me. What I would do is add some silicone and then let it dry so it gets rubbery. Then attach your BOV.

http://www.dejontool.web.aplus.net/images/DSM-Tools & Misc/BOVF.JPG


"To seal we want no boost pressure under the BOV diaphragm until the TB closes - then we want full boost to open the valve. The solution is:
1-drill and tap a hole in the side of the BOV flange to intersect the small hole in the valve's flange bottom (which goes vertically to the underside of the diaphragm), insert a 1/8" hose fitting and seal the hole in the flange bottom with a 10-32 set screw.
2- now we have to switch the pressure to this fitting between atmospheric pressure when manifold pressure = boost, and boost pressure when manifold pressure drops. We do this with a small 3-way - pilot pressure operated valve, using the manifold pressure to operate the pilot. (activate the valve) It requires 15psi to switch. So with pilot (manifold) pressure less than 15psi the valve sends boost pressure (from a tap in the intercooler piping) to the underside of the diaphragm to operate it normally, and at boost over 15psi the valve switches, venting the diaphragm's underside and sealing the BOV. Leakage almost completely seals!"

EDIT - The Greddy doesn't need to be tapped like the 1G bov's do, so there is no modification involved.

*ripped straight from www.dejontool.com. Go check it out for your self.

 

[Bd1000Eclipse]

ya gasket sucks, i made my own and sealed it down pretty tite.. things are ok, what i don't understand is if it was leaking why was it i was showing full boost? but it lagged like crazy.. how stiff do you have yours set to? how many lbs of boost? thanks for the help

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Originally posted by Bd1000Eclipse
ya gasket sucks, i made my own and sealed it down pretty tite.. things are ok, what i don't understand is if it was leaking why was it i was showing full boost? but it lagged like crazy.. how stiff do you have yours set to? how many lbs of boost? thanks for the help

15 psi, 6 threads showing above the lock nut...

 

[Bd1000Eclipse]

about the same for me