Dead 7 bolt pics

[swordfish]

The 7 bolt that could, no longer can. It reached the end of its life on 3/6/03. Here are some pics.

Dead 7 Bolt

jeff

 

[-=TWITCH=-]

Ouch What where your mods and how many miles on the engine. Did it walk what happened?

More Info

Chris Rogers

 

[swordfish]

The car had/has been through many different stages. For a few months while the L3R was on the car it spent its life over 450whp. You can check out my site for more details. And yes... it was crankwalking. Endplay was .031. WAAAAYYYY out of spec.

jeff

 

[greathuskie]

swordfish did ya get my PM

 

[mgnficnt]

how does the crank turn blue?

 

[brads]

Now that it walked, do you have any plans on sharing the things you tried to prevent crankwalk? I checked your webpage out, pretty interesting read. Im continuing to run a 7 bolt in mine as I build up the car, so any info on what works or doesnt work to avoid crankwalk I'd really like to see.

So what engine goes in next?

Brad

 

[NDgsx]

Originally posted by mgnficnt
how does the crank turn blue?

metal on metal=friction=heat=heat changes color of metals.

Ah that crank has nothing on my old motor, the whole counter weight was dark purple

2.4 time?

 

[swordfish]

Originally posted by brads
Now that it walked, do you have any plans on sharing the things you tried to prevent crankwalk? I checked your webpage out, pretty interesting read. Im continuing to run a 7 bolt in mine as I build up the car, so any info on what works or doesnt work to avoid crankwalk I'd really like to see.

So what engine goes in next?

Brad

I tried a lot of things to prevent crankwalk but most were just to the crank. The main thing was the titanium nitride coating. It didnt work. Nothing worked. It held up for a while under high stress, but in the end, it failed.

Dont know if I will try a stroker just yet. I have a great tranny that will shift above 9500 like butta, so I'll probably just build another 2.0L but it will be a 6 bolt with a hardcore rotating assembly. I'll keep progress on my website with pics of the buildup and so on. I've decided what pistons I will use, but I'm still unsure about the rods. Pistons will be Ross.

jeff

 

[brads]

I saw you removed the 2G oil squirters, did you put 1G style ones back in? How else did you change the oil supply in the block? It looks like you did most of the stuff people claim will fix crankwalk, but it still went. How many miles were on the engine? What about the undisclosed modifications? Did any of those involve the bearings?

Brad

 

[greathuskie]

stroker kit is where its at im tellin ya

 

[swordfish]

Originally posted by brads
I saw you removed the 2G oil squirters, did you put 1G style ones back in? How else did you change the oil supply in the block? It looks like you did most of the stuff people claim will fix crankwalk, but it still went. How many miles were on the engine? What about the undisclosed modifications? Did any of those involve the bearings?

Brad

Yes, I did install the 1G style squirters. The engine had around 4k hard ass miles on it. After this I dont think there is a fix for crankwalk. The problem is the inherent instability of the 2G crank forgings. The fix is a 6 bolt, or you have a good 7 bolt forging to start with IMO.

Strokers are cool, but extra $$ for the crank. I'm poor as dirt right now, I have to pay a load of taxes this year and it sucks. I wish someone would pop out some dyno numbers, or track number that show there superior to the 2.0L. I know they are capable of making more torque, but there are a lot of good ole fashion 2.0's getting the job done as well.

jeff

 

[rick]

ok yall i have had enough of this shiiznit. mitsubishi needs to accept responisbility for this baloney. there is no way an engine built coreectly should have this amount of play!!!! i say we stand up and tell mitsubishi off for this, make a huge public forum out of it so they have to hear us. its high time we start making some noise so they cant ignore us no more. my email is [email protected]

lets make some noise!

 

[greathuskie]

magnus ran 10.6 at 24lbs....

 

[wastefuldreamer]

dun dun dun another one bites the dust. Sorry dude. Time for something better.

 

[Violater101]

What were the symptoms that you noticed before you actually spun the rod? I guess if it happens, its happens and do like you do and go with a 6 bolt. Sorry that happened to you I'm sure you will be back better than ever. After reading your site, I guess some of your suspision was because of the quantity of oil it was consuming. Anything else?

 

[larryd]

Sorry to hear that Jeff. I guess its bound to happen to everyone eventually if you keep pushing huh

 

[dsmturboawd]

Originally posted by NDgsx

2.4 time?

yes yes yes.

 

[swordfish]

Originally posted by Violater101
What were the symptoms that you noticed before you actually spun the rod? I guess if it happens, its happens and do like you do and go with a 6 bolt. Sorry that happened to you I'm sure you will be back better than ever. After reading your site, I guess some of your suspision was because of the quantity of oil it was consuming. Anything else?

The oil consumption was a byproduct of the damage the piston had sustained. At first it sounded like I had a collapsed lifter. Not really loud. But as a day or so past, it got louder. So before I got stranded somewhere, I pulled the pan just to check. And there it was.

jeff

 

[NDgsx]

Originally posted by swordfish


Pistons will be Ross.

Do the higher compression, I really don't think knock will be as hard to control as people think. Dish pistons don't do jack for quench. Just my .02 cents worth.

 

[swordfish]

Originally posted by NDgsx


Do the higher compression, I really don't think knock will be as hard to control as people think. Dish pistons don't do jack for quench. Just my .02 cents worth.

Dont worry Nick. They will be abnormally high for a streetish car.

jeff

 

[rubbersidedown]

i always hear about 2g 7bolts suffering from CW... are 1g 7bolts vunerable to CW as well?

 

[NDgsx]

Yes 1Gs are as well, but since we have no crank sensor to hit it often goes un-noticed for very long periods of time. When you see a 92.5-94 dsm that has trouble shifting even though the clutch and hydraulics are in good shape there is usually something they're missing .

Jeff that's what I like to hear, when I build my new motor this fall/winter I'll be doing the same

 

[chaye]

hey swordfish you mentioned something bout oil comsuption..now was it burning the oil..or was it leaking
cause mine leaks like a mother licker and bout every400 miles or so i have to add bout a quart of oil.
as of now the car is out im thinking the tbelt sliped and case tremendous idle speed sputer and stalling..wondering if mine went out too..
thanks man..

 

[rubbersidedown]

Originally posted by NDgsx
Yes 1Gs are as well, but since we have no crank sensor to hit it often goes un-noticed for very long periods of time. When you see a 92.5-94 dsm that has trouble shifting even though the clutch and hydraulics are in good shape there is usually something they're missing .

Jeff that's what I like to hear, when I build my new motor this fall/winter I'll be doing the same

In my '94, if you came to a stop, put the car in neutral and then attempted to shift into first, it would grind unless you held the clutch in and slid into 2second and then up into first. Is that what you're talking about? Or is that just my tranny?

 

[swordfish]

Originally posted by chaye
hey swordfish you mentioned something bout oil comsuption..now was it burning the oil..or was it leaking
cause mine leaks like a mother licker and bout every400 miles or so i have to add bout a quart of oil.
as of now the car is out im thinking the tbelt sliped and case tremendous idle speed sputer and stalling..wondering if mine went out too..
thanks man..

Oil consumption was a byproduct of the piston destructions that was happening due to the failing bearing. Cyl 3 had amost compression and leak was absolutely terrible. The oil was being consumed in the combustion chamber of #3 cyl.

jeff