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replacing headgasket

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echo

20+ Year Contributor
960
1
Sep 26, 2002
Jacksonville, Florida
i'm getting ready to go and buy a new head gasket. is there anything else i need other then the head gasket while i am there, so i don't have to go back?

sorry if this sounds noobish, but it's my first time changing a head gasket.
 
Wait...are you just putting a new gasket on the old surfaces? Don't do that. At the bare minimum have the head resurfaced. The best way to do it is to have the block decked as well.
 
can that be done by me? if not, how much does it normally run to get it done?
 
No you can't do it yourself. You need to find a reputable machine shop in your area and call them to find out. It shouldn't cost that much. I can't speak for JAX but shouldn't be more than $75.

What that does is square up the head for a flat surface. Like I said, doing the head and the deck is the 100% right way but unless you feel like pulling your motor, you'll have to settle for just the head.

P.S. I'm sure someone will post "I didn't do it, mY sHiTz iS FiNe yO" but I'm telling you the right way to do it.
 
yea, i have heard people say the only time that they need to be resurfaced is when you put a metal headgasket on. right now i am not even near the point of doing a metal headgasket.

i will call around to see how much it will run me. i am not going to pull the motor to have it resurfaced, way too much trouble and money right now if it can be done with just the head.

thanks for the help :thumb:
 
One thing to keep in mind also is to tell them to only take the BARE minimum off the head. Usually they can check the head and see how much you have to take off. If you have to really deck the head a lot, I would suggest finding another because taking a lot of material off will retard your cam timing and raise your compression. If they go REALLY far it can on some interferance motors cause valve to piston clearance issues.

There is a really good shop south of Daytona who Grassroots Motorsports works with a lot but that's a bit of a drive for you.

Good luck.
 
alright, i will keep that in mind. is there any chance that it won't have to be done at all or is it one of those things that it will have to be done. also, back to the original question. what else will i need other then a headgasket?
 
the timing belt was done about 17k ago. cash isn't that tight, but not enough to do all that right now. LOL, i am 17 and work a part time job.

where can i get the headgasket set at?
 
I have to change my radiator (see thread) and my head gasket next week. If you change your headgasket, you should go and buy a complete head set, which includes exhaust manifold gasket, intake gasket, turbo o-ring, etc... It's going to be a little more expensive, but since your engine is going to be in pieces, might as well change ALL the gaskets to new ones. If you haven't done this yet, change the timing belt and the tension pulley as well.

If you have to resurface the head, have it done a pro who will remove the minimal possible! You'll increase your compression ratio if you overdo it!

L8ER! :dsm:
 
where are you getting your gasket set at?

also, what damage can running a car with a blown headgasket cause? i don't know if it is totally blown, there is just a little coolant leak.
 
i can't find anything but gasket sets for a complete engine rebuild. don't need that.

this is a little more expensive then i thought it was going to be. i guess it's better then replacing the entire head because of it. i started off doing the head gasket, then find out it's easier to do the timing belt (again) while doing the headgasket.
 
i planned on using the OEM. as soon as i get all this fixed and get a fuel pump i am probaly gonna run around 17-18psi. i have heard the OEM can hold u to around 24 psi.

does mitsu sell a head set for gaskets? or does anyone know a site that sells a gasket set?
 
ight, thanks. i was looking at machv.com and see they are about 30 dollars cheaper on everything i need.

can i use a metal headgasket without resurfacing the block deck? i think i remeber someone saying that to use a metal headgasket you have to have the head and the block resurfaced or it wouldn't seal right because it wouldn't be a perfect flat surface.
 
You should only use metal headgasket when you have a very powerful engine. If it's your daily car, I suggest you change your gasket to the OEM. If you decide to change to a metal one, get the thickest so then you'll lower your compression ratio a little. (I didn't event check if you had a turbo...) If you have a turbo, do as I said, if not ignore my last sentence... Like I mentionned yesterday, I have to change my headgasket and radiator next week, and I'm getting the OEM complete head set. You should change the whole set since your engine is going to be into pieces. Might as well get good new, clean gaskets at the same time!

L8ER! :dsm:
 
ok. yea i have a turbo :) it's fwd, but i'm not going for quarter-mile times. i looking to build around 400hp (maybe more, but we will see when i actually get there) and a nice streetable clean looking car, but right now i am just trying to get everything working properly and if i have to replace something i am going with something better. i think i am gonna just stick with OEM. i have heard some people running 26 psi on the stock headgasket.

thanks for everyone's help.
 
stock head gaskets blow ive changed 4 on mine till now with a genuine 3 layer stainless gasket hasnot flynched and reduced compression ratio at the same time with a 1.3 mm gasket.worth every cent.
 
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