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My version of the "Full Blown" Walbro setup

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Jst4Cyl

15+ Year Contributor
312
9
Nov 8, 2006
New Castle, Indiana
Well as I felt I needed to be doing something constructive with my time since I'm unsure of which direction my build is going to go I thought I would start building up my fuel system. So far I have 20 feet or so of Russel -8an SS line to redo my feed line and some other odd and end things under the hood. Since that old crusty thing (Fuel pump assembly) sitting in the back of most of our cars could use an upgrade (performs ok but needed a face lift) I went ahead and grinded the top down with a angle grinder and eliminated that bracket deal and drilled out the stock feed line. After redoing the wiring inside the harness with some solder and heat shrink I thought why not run my power on into the assembly so this is what I've come up with. Without further a do here is my pieced together Ace/Rural King Racing fuel pump setup.

I still need to do some touch up painting.

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The second screw is used for the 2nd pumps ground. I just need to order another pump and install kit.
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And for the occasional bad relay problems, I have thought ahead.

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Comments welcome, My only concern would be fuel on the plastic items but the fuel levels shouldn't be that high for long periods of time so I guess we will see.
 

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I did some touching up on the plate and it looks much better now. I'll most another pic tonight or tommorow.
 
Thanks alot guys.

It will be holding (2) Walbro 255HP when it's complete.

As you can see in my sig, I religously believe in making your car, yourself.

My signature over on the link forums is: Paying someone to build your car is the same as paying someone to have sex with your wife, And then bragging about it when she is pregnant....
 
Nice and all. But does that Pretty Billet 3way Splitter have some way of keeping Pump one from Feeding into pump 2 and vice versa?

Not to Kill your setup, Because you do have an A for effort. But If you dont have some way of keeping the pumps from flowing into each other. One pump will Die ALOT faster than the other... Leading to a Failed FP and possible Major damage....

You should look in to some HardCore oneway check valves and pop them in between the pumps and that Pretty 3way...

I Hope you are useing some form of Fuel resistant locktight, Those Audio power distribution blocks are KNOWN for vibrating the allen set screws loose. Or maybe use a center punch and knock the Treads so the set screw cannot back out under vibration, but removable my allen wrench....??
Find some form of Silicone???? or something thats Fuel resistant and Cover that Block assembly...


Just some random thoughts for ya....
GL buddie, And nice Setup.
 
It would take way to long for one pump to kill another one. This dual pump setup has been done many times with great sucess. It has also been done with a Bosch 044 and a Walbro 255hp. The guy drove the car like that for a year and never had a problem.

I like how you used the three way fitting with a single fitting out the top. I had to weld two -6 fittings on top and then weld a plate to seal it all up. Looks nice.:thumb:
 
Nice and all. But does that Pretty Billet 3way Splitter have some way of keeping Pump one from Feeding into pump 2 and vice versa?

Not to Kill your setup, Because you do have an A for effort. But If you dont have some way of keeping the pumps from flowing into each other. One pump will Die ALOT faster than the other... Leading to a Failed FP and possible Major damage....

You should look in to some HardCore oneway check valves and pop them in between the pumps and that Pretty 3way...

I Hope you are useing some form of Fuel resistant locktight, Those Audio power distribution blocks are KNOWN for vibrating the allen set screws loose. Or maybe use a center punch and knock the Treads so the set screw cannot back out under vibration, but removable my allen wrench....??
Find some form of Silicone???? or something thats Fuel resistant and Cover that Block assembly...


Just some random thoughts for ya....
GL buddie, And nice Setup.

Thanks for the constructive criticism as I very much wanted to find the weakest points. But thus far the only worry of mine is the distribution block (as I noted earlier in this thread).

The pumps have an internal check valve and that would only be effective if I were to try and run some restrictive feed line with a low pressure and so on and so forth. With a -8an feed and 37-43 psi of fuel pressure I think it'll flow pretty free. As the guy pointed out below me people have made consistently high horsepower numbers from setups half as well built as the one I have mustered together. People have even ran 2 044 pumps internally and see the best flow from that. BUT, thats also for E85 guys that don't have a budget, I wanted to build a potentially 600 hp fuel setup that would keep a constant pressure and have a stable voltage to the pump. I believe I accomplished that with this.

It would take way to long for one pump to kill another one. This dual pump setup has been done many times with great sucess. It has also been done with a Bosch 044 and a Walbro 255hp. The guy drove the car like that for a year and never had a problem.

I like how you used the three way fitting with a single fitting out the top. I had to weld two -6 fittings on top and then weld a plate to seal it all up. Looks nice.:thumb:

Between you and I, that is a billet alum. air fitting from Rural King. Can be had for ~$9.XX, the 2 barbed fittings are from Ace Hardware I mean errrrr Ace Racing :cool: along with the plug for the third port. The -8an bulkhead fitting cost me like ~$5.XX off Ebay, and the hose was from Autozone. The fitting screwed DIRECTLY INTO THE FITTING WITHOUT ANY TAPPING OF THE THREADS ! And at this point I smiled like a possum eating garbage and walked out of the store assembling my car parts :sneaky: :rocks:

Thanks for the compliments guys, thats what makes all the trouble worth it to me. :D
 
I'll post some pics of the completed assembly once the pumps are installed and also some of the assembly installed.

As for the set screws, I believe I will just get some small bolts and replace them possibly.
 
I really like this idea and it's something I could imulate with stuff I have at work for very cheap. I have two questions what is in between the adapter and the fitting on top of the module to keep it sealed and not have any play in it? Second more constructive criticism than a question, but why not use fuel injction clamps instead of the worm clamps on the hose to the pumps?
 
Between you and I, that is a billet alum. air fitting from Rural King. Can be had for ~$9.XX, the 2 barbed fittings are from Ace Hardware I mean errrrr Ace Racing :cool: along with the plug for the third port. The -8an bulkhead fitting cost me like ~$5.XX off Ebay, and the hose was from Autozone. The fitting screwed DIRECTLY INTO THE FITTING WITHOUT ANY TAPPING OF THE THREADS ! And at this point I smiled like a possum eating garbage and walked out of the store assembling my car parts :sneaky: :rocks:

Thanks for the compliments guys, thats what makes all the trouble worth it to me. :D

I figured thats what that was. We`use those at our shop. We call them shower heads. I just had it stuck in my head y fitting or 2 into 1. Not 3 into 1 and block one off. Is that just a junction box or does that have a fuse? Also what gauge wire are you using?
 
That looks amazing, not going to lie i used a straight up brass T. even this non perfect flow has showed me no problem only a much better flow then from 1 pump
 
I really like this idea and it's something I could imulate with stuff I have at work for very cheap. I have two questions what is in between the adapter and the fitting on top of the module to keep it sealed and not have any play in it? Second more constructive criticism than a question, but why not use fuel injction clamps instead of the worm clamps on the hose to the pumps?

1) I used 2 washers that I also picked up from ACE to space out the fitting from the 3 port junction combined with locktite on all the threads and I actually took a soldering gun and somewhat welded the bulkhead fitting to the assembly.

2) As I responded either on here or over on the link forums, I actually tried the fuel clamps first but stripped out the threads on one and I felt more secure using the worm clamps because of my past experiences with them. In person you can actually see the rubber hose coming through the ribs of the clamp as it is so tight. I could have cranked on it another turn or so but I felt that it wouldn't really need it.

I figured thats what that was. We`use those at our shop. We call them shower heads. I just had it stuck in my head y fitting or 2 into 1. Not 3 into 1 and block one off. Is that just a junction box or does that have a fuse? Also what gauge wire are you using?

1) It's actually used in the car audio world for running amp power wire into a smaller gauge wire. Essentially, if you were to use the distrubution block as it was designed you would run a larger gauge wire (4ga or so) from the battery to the back of the vehicle and then since most amps won't accept that large of a wire it converts 4 ga over to something like 8ga. This piece is also known to be used to run 2 amps.

2) I am running 8 gauge wire if I'm not mistaken.

That looks amazing, not going to lie i used a straight up brass T. even this non perfect flow has showed me no problem only a much better flow then from 1 pump

Thanks, I tried to make it look as professional as possible while still making it acceptable to the K.I.S.S. theory, which stands for K.eep I.t S.imple S.tupid


Again, Thanks so much for the compliments. It makes me feel all warm and cozy inside. All jokes aside, It does make me feel good to know that others like what I've accomplished.
 
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