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is it possible to put on a act 2100 clutch backwards??

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larryd

20+ Year Contributor
4,546
5
Nov 26, 2001
Bear, Delaware
topic says it all..

TOB = throw out bearing
PP = pressure plate

its hard to explain.. as it sits right now the TOB is sitting up against the PP like it should be but the problem is that fork that the TOB sits on wont go any further left which would push the TOB up against the PP harder and release the clutch from the flywheel. Ive tried actually using a crow bar and I could barely get the thing to move so either Im drastically underestimating hydraulic pressure or something is seriously wrong.

I asked my Uncle who was a service tech for Hyundai and worked on the 4G63 alot and he said it sounds to him like the clutch is backwards. He looked at a picture I took of the PP and the spindles all look flat, he said they should be pushed out which means the springs on the clutch arent pushing the spindles out which menas the clutch is backwards. If the spindles were pushed out further then the shift fork would sit further right which would then allow me to move it left with some pressure to actually release the clutch.

Basically as it sits Im thinking the clutch just is stuck on.. Ofcourse Im really hoping that Im wrong becuase I REALLY REALLY dont want to drop the tranny again but please tell me what yer opinions are??
 
It's really hard to put a clutch disk in backwards. I'd think that you'd have a hard time getting the PP to bolt up. one side of the clutch disk is flat all the way across & one side is raised about 1/2" in the hub section (where all the springs are). The raised section side goes towards the tranny, & the flat side towards the motor. I know that every new ACT that I've ever installed.. when the PP is tightened down the fingers are all flattened out like you describe. After the clutch wears the fingers point more & more outward. You'd really be amazed at the amount of force the clutch hydraulics operate at. I don't think you'd be able to move the TOB w/ a crowbar (esp w/ a 2600). Did you get everythign installed & it didn't work? Or are you just checking before you put everything back together? Also you did take the flywheel to get turned right? What did you have the step height set to? Should be in the .610 to .612 range.
 
the flywheel is a Fidanza unit and the clutch is a 2100.. the reason I ask is becuase i have no clutch pedal at all right now, i mean like I push the pedal and it falls to the floor.. I know we have to bleed it but it made me go down and look at that TOB fork and Im getting really confused.. becuase when ypu push the clutch pedal that fork should move left and I cant get it to move left to save my life but I can get it to move right easily..
 
sounds like you have alot of air in the clutch hydraulics. Either that or you have a blown clutch MC or SC.
 
I would be really surprised if you could operate the clutch with a crowbar.

If you do pull the tranny again, you might want to consider shimming the pivot ball. That will move the pivot point towards the engine and give the fork a little more reach.

Either way, I do not think you can properly diagnose the clutch without bleeding the hydraulic system first.
 
Well let's look at a few things first.
How did the clutch work before disassembly?
Did you take apart any of the hydraulic clutch components?
Did you install the TOB correctly?

Basically waht your uncle said:
It is definetly possible to install the disc backwards. And tha would have moved the plate to the left placing that extra and constent pressure on the TOB, which would stop the the fork pivot arm from moving left but allowing it to go right.

Tearing it apart is the only sure way to know, and it would be well worth the 2-4 hours work!
 
Larryd,
To tell you the truth, i've been trying to find a resolution for the same prolem you are having on my car. Something we both have in common is the Fidanza flywheel, which im suspecting now is my problem as i've replaced everything between my foot and the crank except the flwyheel which i had rebuit by Fidanza but i still have had no luck. My problem is that i cant get my clutch to disengage far enuf so that the car will shift under high rpm or wont creep well in gear and revving. My problem aroused after i installed a ACT 2600 and a Fidanza flywheel, and sicne i've replaced everything except the flyewheel and had the trans out 3-4 times now. I think next im gonna go back to a stock flywheel. Let me know your symptoms and solution if you get one.

Nick
 
well mine was just plane stupid.. we bled the system over and over and over and it just wasnt doing anything as we were getting no fluid out and the resevoir showed full.. then we realized that the brake fluid resevoir and clutch fluid resevoir are seperate..DUH.. Ive definitely been working on my car to much lately.. So we filled it up and bled it and filled it up and bled it again and finally I have pressure.. the engagement point I still didnt like though as it was engaging about an inch off the floor so I adjusted the clutch pedal so it engages further up.. :)
 
yes, i sent the flywheel back to Fidanza and they rebuilt it w/ a new friction plate and stepped it to .610. I've been talking to a guy on another board who's experiencing the problems and funny thing is we're both running ACT 2600's and Fidanza flywheels.
 
There are PLENTY of people running the ACT 2600 and Fidanza flywheel with no problems. So there is nothing inherantly wrong with that set up. I would be willing to bet it is a step height or install problem also.

And as for larryd. Man.
 
It sure as hell aint no installation error. I've been talking to people w/ the same problems. And it also seemd RRE got a bad batch of Flywheels and DSM Performance has also had a few problems w/ them. Im also talking to a guy w/ the same problem and Fidanza replaced his flywheel w/ a new one and his problem seems to have been solved. But mine is still pending as to what the problem is, im narrowing it down to the flywheel.
 
When I replaced my clutch my engagement point was about an inch off of the floor. That was a little too much so with a little time I took the tranny back off and placed two lock washers between the forkpivot and the tranny housing. (As suggested in VFAQ) this dramatically lifted my engagement point to 2.5" which is just where i like it. If you do drop the tranny again you might want to give this a try since you're already going to be in there.

(Somone above also suggested shimming the pivot but no one seemed to acknowledge it....he has a point)

Just my 2cents
Zero
 
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