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Trick to install turbo return line?

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95GST

20+ Year Contributor
133
1
Jun 14, 2002
Hi do you guys know a good way to install the turbo return lines... I don't think the turbo matters. I have new gasket. Do you dress it with RTV or not?

Also for the oil pan do you put RTV on the bolts, because I think they go through to the oil pan?

One trick someone told me is to tighten it some more after it partially cures, not sure it's true or not.
 
The way I did mine at the pan (with no leaks still) is I didn't use a gasket at all. I used Ultra Grey RTV. I added the RTV all around the outside of the fitting and made sure I completely circled the two bolt holes. Like I said, I haven't had any problem out of it.
 
I always try to use the stock replacemnt cork/rubber gasket from Felpro. It's $5 at Advance. Once the pan is removed, I'll clean the mating surface on the pan as well as the block. Then I'll outline the pan with a small bead of rtv and "glue" the gasket down. Once it cures you don't have to worry about the alignment of the gasket as it is snug to pan and the install is a breeze. I wouldn't recommend putting RTV on the threads of the bolts. as the threads will be in the block. You can get away with just RTV, but I don't like to leave puddles of oil after 5-6k miles.
 
The first time I did the return line, I used a new mitsu gasket and torqued to factory specs and it leaked (not much, but leaked slightly nonetheless). I recently replaced the return line gasket with another mitsu gasket with a thin coat of RTV on it, and zero leaks now:thumb: Good luck.
 
There are so many rtv tubes in advance auto, which one is the right one for a job like this?
 
You are not supposed to use any RTV on the oil return line, new gaskets & crush washers will seal it fine. If any RTV gets into your oil it could clog your oil feed line and kill your turbo. :nono:

As long as you're not a retard and gob it on there you'll be fine. Stay on the outside of the flange on the oilpan only and you'll be fine. :rocks:
 
So then the 2 bolts on the oil pan if it goes through to the pan how does it stop oil from leaking out?

I would guess that's why the RTV is effective at stopping the leak, it with the gasket somehow sealed the oil that would excape through the threads of the bolt
 
So then the 2 bolts on the oil pan if it goes through to the pan how does it stop oil from leaking out?

I would guess that's why the RTV is effective at stopping the leak, it with the gasket somehow sealed the oil that would excape through the threads of the bolt

The crush washers keep it from leaking through the bolts, if you do it the correct way you will not need any RTV. Forgetting to replace the crush washers is probaly the most common causes of leaks on the return line.
 
There are so many rtv tubes in advance auto, which one is the right one for a job like this?

Thats easy, none ;) You shouldn't need RTV to achieve a proper seal & nor is it recommended. All that is required is a new OEM gasket & 2 new crush washers.

Yes, you are correct, the flange bolts go right through into the oil pan. The washers on these bolts are actually small crush washers & what prevents the common, leaking at the bolt issue. You can pick these up from the dealer for fairly cheep & they are made from aluminum. You can also pick up a standard copper crush washer at your local autoparts store, that will also work. I believe their the 6mm size. More then likely the flange side of the return line will be smoother then the pan side, so I put the side of the OEM gasket with the additional sealent ring to the pan side. With this method you should have zero leaks & if you still have a leak you have another issue with either the flange or pan.
 
Sounds like most of the people replying to the OP misunderstood what he was doing. People are giving advice for mounting the oilpan, he is asking about mounting the turbo oil drain instead.


I used a THIN layer of RTV on the seal to help hold it in place and provide a little more sealing. Be careful not to use much, you don't want to block the drain or oil pump pickup with any RTV that squeeezes out.


You do need to seal the two bolts that go into the pan or they will leak. The stock bolts have a flange head, and use a copper washer that was referred to in some previous posts. I didn't have anywhere local to get those washers last time I pulled my drain, so I used a little bit of RTV on the threads. Probably not the best way, but I didn't have any leaking issues in a few thousand miles. The RTV I used was some aircraft stuff.
 
Gotcha but do you put any RTV on the turbo side i.e. right on the bottom of the turbo? Is it too hot there?

I had success with RTV in the past, seems to help seal up any surface imperfections, but I forgot if it was done on the turbo side or not...
 
Gotcha but do you put any RTV on the turbo side i.e. right on the bottom of the turbo? Is it too hot there?

I had success with RTV in the past, seems to help seal up any surface imperfections, but I forgot if it was done on the turbo side or not...

I've never done it, and I've never had any leaks w/ oem gaskets.
 
Gotcha but do you put any RTV on the turbo side i.e. right on the bottom of the turbo? Is it too hot there?

I had success with RTV in the past, seems to help seal up any surface imperfections, but I forgot if it was done on the turbo side or not...

I've done it in a pinch. It worked ok. Once again small amounts of RTV or it can clog up the return or oil pump pickup.
 
I originally mounted my FP BigT28 to the car using a no name gasket I got from the local auto parts store. I was flat with nothing of note on either side. I mounted it up and I had a slight leak. I went back to the dealer and got a oem gasket and noticed the oem gasket has a slight rubber circle on the oil pan side of the gasket. I put the new gasket in with the rubber o towards the oil pan and never had another problem with it. I never thought to use RTV.
 
Yes, you are correct, the flange bolts go right through into the oil pan. The washers on these bolts are actually small crush washers & what prevents the common, leaking at the bolt issue. You can pick these up from the dealer for fairly cheep & they are made from aluminum.


^^^ Anybody have a part number for those crush washers?




EDIT: Nevermind, I found this very helpful post from diablo.
 
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