AEM fuel rail, what fittings can be used - PICS!

[Nicks2319]

Hey everyone, I need some help with fuel fittings and my AEM rail. Right now this is my current setup....

SS line from filter to inlet, slowboy fittings on both inlet and outlet, summit fittings on both sides...

<img src="http://www.nickserra.com/stuff/car/done2.jpg"><br>I'm aware this line is sketchy, but I don't care about that now.

<br><br><img src="http://www.nickserra.com/stuff/car/newparts7.jpg"><br>

<br><img src="http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/images/T/Aluminium%20Outlet%20Fuel%20Fitting.jpg"><br>I'm using these slowboy fittings. The inlet side is using the Import Evolution kit.

<br><br>I have developed a leak on the inlet side of the rail, and it is coming from between the rail and the black fitting, which is connected to the rail with those little pins. I want to replace it with something like this:
<br><br><img src="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i17/paulvolk/tuners%20write-up/ORBdash6.jpg"><br><br>... to eliminate the need for the slowboy fitting and just go straight from the summit 90 degree fittings to the rail, but my question is will these screw in, do I need to find a special piece to make this work? I know I can replace the seals on the AEM black fitting, but I would like to simplify my setup if possible.

<br><br>In this tech guide this guy puts a fitting right into the rail. I would like to do something like this, but with the above mentioned fitting. <br><br>http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234218

Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

I did what you are wanting to do, but I used my stock fuel rail. The details can be found here:

http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.html

I spent a good deal of money on the drill bit and tap. Expect around $80 just for the tools. I don't know if you can do as the guide says with the AEM; it would depend on the internal diameter. You could always go back to a stock rail if you really wanted to eliminate that piece with the rubber o-ring, but then you would be loosing the ooh and aah of the AEM.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I still dont understand why people buy the AEM rail. The OEM fuel rail is not much smaller than -10an on the interior, which is enough fuel to run 9's on (maybe 8s).

 

[Mikael SS]

I did what you are wanting to do, but I used my stock fuel rail. The details can be found here:

http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.html

I spent a good deal of money on the drill bit and tap. Expect around $80 just for the tools. I don't know if you can do as the guide says with the AEM; it would depend on the internal diameter. You could always go back to a stock rail if you really wanted to eliminate that piece with the rubber o-ring, but then you would be loosing the ooh and aah of the AEM.

i read your website and it doesn't make sense to me. fuel pressure is going to be equal throughout the system, no matter the size of the piping or where it is read.

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

Not my web site. The people who made that site claim they tested the stock system and that is what they got.

The bottom line is the stock fuel system does have some tiny bottle necks that really should be replaced when you start to make power on your car.

I agree with the statement about the AEM fuel rail. If your stock fuel rail is what is keeping you from delivering enough fuel, then you are at the point where a second set of injectors is probably going to be the solution, not a slightly larger diameter fuel rail.

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

i read your website and it doesn't make sense to me. fuel pressure is going to be equal throughout the system, no matter the size of the piping or where it is read.

No, the greater the diameter of the piping the more you can flow. The less bends you have in piping the lesser the pressure drop. Any fluid flow, such as gasoline of oil, has a pressure drop associated with it when it flows through a pipe or hose. By using the larger diameter fuel feed lines your are able to lessen that pressure drop.

With the Stevetek write-up he is trying to get more fuel to the fuel rail. So he lowers the pressure lose which makes it easier for the fuel pump to pump the fuel, thus delivering more fuel to the rail.

Check out wikipedia or google, if that doesnt make sense. Hope that helped.

Bill

 

[Spyder4g64]

What is this? Ive always wondered about what this is / what it does..

 

[Nicks2319]

Awesome, thanks for the link! I'm gonna check that out, and maybe go that route. As far as the AEM rail, It came with the car when I bought it... I agree with its uselessness.

What is this? Ive always wondered about what this is / what it does..

That thing reduces radio interference, I forget its exact name.

 

[Spyder4g64]

The wiring for it.. Does it just ground somewhere? Or is it part of the engine harness?

 

[Mikael SS]

No, the greater the diameter of the piping the more you can flow. The less bends you have in piping the lesser the pressure drop. Any fluid flow, such as gasoline of oil, has a pressure drop associated with it when it flows through a pipe or hose. By using the larger diameter fuel feed lines your are able to lessen that pressure drop.

With the Stevetek write-up he is trying to get more fuel to the fuel rail. So he lowers the pressure lose which makes it easier for the fuel pump to pump the fuel, thus delivering more fuel to the rail.

Check out wikipedia or google, if that doesnt make sense. Hope that helped.

Bill

I think its pretty obvious that larger flows more.

To me the article is saying that pressure is going to be different throughout the fuel system, which just isn't the case.

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

I think its pretty obvious that larger flows more.

To me the article is saying that pressure is going to be different throughout the fuel system, which just isn't the case.

Why do you say that the fuel pressure wont change through out the system? Whenever a fluid flows through a pipe or something like that it losses pressure. When the pipe system is not nice and smooth the pressure drop is even greater. This is why we try to have the least amount of tight bends in intercooler pipes, exhaust manifolds, and so on. Look at these websites:

http://www.pipeflowcalculations.com/pressuredrop/index.htm

http://www.pipeflow.co.uk/public/control.php?_path=/497/503/510

I found those websites through a real quick search before class, but they might help.

Bill

 

[Batman™]

My friend's AEM Fuel Rail started leaking in between the black thing and the anodized part. We made a really easy solution though. We went to Wal Mart and bought a tube of Quik Steel. We used a good bit of the tube all around the fitting to rail area and made sure it was well pressed in. It set up in 10 minutes and he hasn't had a problem since. I know it's not the nicest looking solution, but by gosh it gets the job done. On a side note every AEM rail I've even seen has had this problem. I don't know how they keep selling them.

 

[Nicks2319]

My friend's AEM Fuel Rail started leaking in between the black thing and the anodized part. We made a really easy solution though. We went to Wal Mart and bought a tube of Quik Steel. We used a good bit of the tube all around the fitting to rail area and made sure it was well pressed in. It set up in 10 minutes and he hasn't had a problem since. I know it's not the nicest looking solution, but by gosh it gets the job done. On a side note every AEM rail I've even seen has had this problem. I don't know how they keep selling them.

Do you by chance know if there is an oring on that black part that can be replaced? I thought about sealing it like you explained, but having gunk in my fuel system scares me. More information would be wonderful if you can, thanks!

 

[Batman™]

Quik Steel sets up quickly, and is basically just like metal. You can even cut and grind it like metal. As far as the o-ring, I can offer you no help. We resorted to Quik Steel after spending 45 minutes to an hour trying to get the black fitting out. It's an ill conceived pain. You won't have to worry about gunk in your fuel system though, as the Quik Steel, if added around the fitting and rail, will never even touch the inside of the passages. It really does set hard in 10-15 minutes, take it from me, as I have some good experience with it.

 

[Mikael SS]

Why do you say that the fuel pressure wont change through out the system? Whenever a fluid flows through a pipe or something like that it losses pressure. When the pipe system is not nice and smooth the pressure drop is even greater. This is why we try to have the least amount of tight bends in intercooler pipes, exhaust manifolds, and so on. Look at these websites:

http://www.pipeflowcalculations.com/pressuredrop/index.htm

http://www.pipeflow.co.uk/public/control.php?_path=/497/503/510

I found those websites through a real quick search before class, but they might help.

Bill

you're arguing a different point. look at the site above first. it implies that cyl 1 will have full pressure and 4 may have very little. With a pressure guage after the rail, that is not possible, period.

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

you're arguing a different point. look at the site above first. it implies that cyl 1 will have full pressure and 4 may have very little. With a pressure guage after the rail, that is not possible, period.

Oh alright i see what your saying. I had always thought of that write up as a way to increase the flow with a large feed hose and such, I forgot that he is trying to cause less drop off of fuel to each injector (sorry I didnt read it again and got all involved). But, if you dont run EGT and only have an o2 sensor you dont really have to worry about any possible pressure drop there. Most people just use this write up because it is an excellent write up on upgrading the stock fuel feed line so that they can get more fuel to the fuel rail.

I had a buddy that worked on the fuel system for GE's train division so I will ask him today if I see him, hopefully that will answer your question completly.

Sorry I didnt realize that you were talking about the pressure drop only in the fuel rail.

Bill