How many different 1g manifolds are there?

[TSG59_Steve]

I went to hook up my vacuum lines this morning and I dont have a freaking spot for my bov. I have the common looking 1g intake manifold but there isn't a second nipple in between the other two. I've got the one that goes to the valvecover and the fpr but no bov. Is there another version of the intake manifold? Is that nipple able to screw out? I didn't check for that... I should have. Can I tee the bov off another line somewhere? I cleaned that manifold up and painted it and everything, it'd really suck if I couldn't even use it.

Steve

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Nvm, searched a little harder found it. The NT's did come with this manifold and they don't have a spot for the bov. GREEEAT.

Is there anything I can do besides replace it? Can I screw in a nipple for it?

I was supposed to have the car running tomorrow... doesn't look that way now.

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

You could put a small filter on the PCV and run the BOV line into the port for the PCV.

 

[delta448]

You can buy a threaded brass nipple at just about any hardware store, you'd just need to drill the right sized hole and tap it for the threads of the nipple. I'd make sure to use some strong locktite on it though.

You could put a small filter on the PCV and run the BOV line into the port for the PCV.

WTF

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

PCV = Positive Crank Ventilation

The hose for the "valve cover" connects to the PCV, which can be routed into a collector or just into a small breather filter.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

So you think I can tap it in anywhere? I'd like to put it right under the ECI badge. I guess that'll be something I'll pick up tomorrow. I don't really want to take it back of though... think I'll be alright if I stick a paper towel in there and a vacuum.

 

[talontd92tsi]

Put some grease on the drill bit , and tap as well to prevent any metal shavings from entering the intake manifold itself, they will stick to the grease instead of falling into the manifold.

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

Put some grease on the drill bit , and tap as well to prevent any metal shavings from entering the intake manifold itself, they will stick to the grease instead of falling into the manifold.

I think this is still too risky. It may be a pain in the arse, but taking the manifold back off is the right way to do this.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

I think I'll just loosen it, plug the head, and use a vacuum & grease.

 

[delta448]

PCV = Positive Crank Ventilation

The hose for the "valve cover" connects to the PCV, which can be routed into a collector or just into a small breather filter.

I know what PCV stands for. What I don't understand is how you're going to use the PCV connection when the PCV line runs from the valve cover to the pre-turbo intake pipe, and is not connected to the intake manifold. The PCV valve, which is screwed into the valve cover, only opens for airflow in one direction. It relieves excess crankcase pressure to prevent blowing out engine seals, among other benefits. It will never see boost, only blowby and extreme vacuum from the compressor intake. It would keep the BOV open virtually all the time, especially as the turbo spools up.

 

[dsm-onster]

I think he means run a line from the intake port for the pvc to the BOV then run a "open PVC". Just a filter or open line off of the PVC port on th valve cover. . .

I've done this for tens of thousands of miles w/out huge issues. But, it's not the "right way" for a daily driver. My oil does in fact turn brown earlier than before I changed this. Slight vacuum seams to aid in taking out the possible contaminants in the crank case "atmosphere" that will make their way into the oil. Yet, the oil still lubricates ok for a 30 psi to readline (8500 rpms) stock shortblock. I run wal-mart synthetic and change my oil ever 4500 miles (which is normal).

Nevertheless, see this great thread to convince you to do this the right way. . .

Stupid PCV question

I'd tee off of the FPR line or another line that is not connected to the PCV or a boost control line.

If it is connected to a pcv line, when the pcv valve fails, the boost used to keep the BOV closed during boost will likely vent to the ATM and you'll vent prematurely causiong a HUGE!!! boost leak.

If it is connected to the boost control solenoid then the boost is bled off and the low pressure of the line won't allw the boost to develop enough pressure to keep the BOV closed.

If connected to a manual boost control valve, then the bleeding oriface will likely bleed off enough boost pressure to do the same thing. . .

 

[TimG]

There's a plug on either side of the intake manifold for the PCV tract. It's near the EGR flange on the throttle body side. Take a plug out and put on a threaded nipple. Yes, it works... yes, I've done it... yes, for more then 25,000 miles.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Pic?

 

[dsm-onster]

must not be a 1g thing. . . I have a port for the PVC port at the stock location, one port farther to the right (about in the middle), one for the brakes (facing the firewall about in the middle), and one on the right for the fuel pressure regulator/solenoid.

Are you talking about ports on the TB?

 

[delta448]

After a little research I realized that at least most of the 1G cars had the PCV outlet routed into the intake mani and not into the air intake just after the MAS, as was at least the case on my engine -not sure of which other cars (2Gb?) were set up this way. Both the valve cover breather and PCV were originally attached into the accordion intake hose on my car, so now you can understand why I was so confused.

Apparently, the PCV outlet connection on a 1G mani is perfect for a boost/vacuum source. If you decide to use it, you could reroute the PCV's outgoing hose into the intake pre-turbo. I believe that Mitsu was actually thinking wisely when they decided to move the outlet location to the compressor intake, -when set up this way the PCV valve always sees vacuum and will never have to "hold" boost out of the valve cover. No more PCV valve boost leaks, and the valve's lifespan should exponentially increase.

 

[spinz4]

Man what a bunch of rambling. Just take the pressure source off of your FPR.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Man what a bunch of rambling. Just take the pressure source off of your FPR.

This is what I did. I don't know if it works yet because I have the wrong flywheel (I think)

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Just to update, I'm having trouble's getting my bov to blow-off when it's tapped into the fpr line.

A. Can I tap into a line on the 1g throttle body? If so that's an option.

B. I can tap into the line coming from the intake mani to the pcv nipple.

C. I can drill and tap a new port on my intake mani.

D. I can buy a new intake mani. (Don't want to do that)

Which one should I do?

 

[TurboBlue]

I know vaccuum is constant in any source that you grab it from (if that source sees vaccuum and boost obviously) But I've never been a fan of grabbing a source from the FPR. If you're doing it on a stock car I dont see a huge issue. But as far as a car goes with upgraded fuel/boost, you're going to want as close to a perfect, consistant source for the FPR. Its just 3 more spots for a leak to occur, and you want to avoid losing vaccuum to the FPR as much as possible. If it loses vaccuum it will go lean, and we all know what lean does.

 

[TimG]

C is actually your best bet. Take off the intake manifold, drill a hole, tap it with an NPT tap and throw in a brass fitting. There are a few locations with flat spots on the manifold for you to drill and tap (best one would be the flat spot right beside the brake booster line). Just make sure the manifold is off before you go drilling and tapping.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

C is actually your best bet. Take off the intake manifold, drill a hole, tap it with an NPT tap and throw in a brass fitting. There are a few locations with flat spots on the manifold for you to drill and tap (best one would be the flat spot right beside the brake booster line). Just make sure the manifold is off before you go drilling and tapping.

I'll definitely take it off. The only time I've take the intake manifold off was when the motor was out so it was easy. How hard is it to get to all those bolts, etc? I just want to get an idea of how many beers I need to drink before I do this... .

NVM: I'll just take the battery, etc off. Shouldn't be too hard, right? .

 

[Dream On]

It's about a 4-6 beer job. Some of the bolts are kinda tough to get to. I had the best luck getting at them from underneath.

 

[TurboBlue]

You can get to all of them from the top, it's just a tad bit tough. Most of them you can get from going in from the side. Theres only 5 or 6 on the bottom. I've done mine from the top plenty of times. You'll get it. Good luck