MSD dis-2 install, blue wire

[funguy]

Hi guys,

already searched on this topic, and have founda few threads, but there are not really clear.

Am I able to hook the blue wire up onto the negative terminal of the clutch safety pedal? I hooked it up to that terminal and my 2 step does not work. I have read that i have to bypass the switch and hook up the relay to that switch.

Is that the only way to make the msd 2 step stutter work? I mean, i don't know why the stock voltage source wouldn't work.

Any explanations or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

Derek

 

[andymoraitis]

Use this search link and pick the 5th link down from the top. It will auto-download a PDF with the install instructions for the DIS-2.

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=MSD+DIS-2+Install&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Hope that helps out,

Andy

 

[funguy]

i have the manaul already, and i put it on the right settings

i have hooked up the blue wire, just like the schematic picture, but to the clutch start safety swtich negative terminal for the 12 volt source. it doesn't work.

thanks

Derek

 

[andymoraitis]

Derek,

Sorry about that. I never tried the stutterbox setup on the DIS-2. I'll Pm a few other wisemen who are better at electrical than I am and see if they can help,

Hang in there,

Andy

 

[eclipsegsx1736]

The clutch safety pedal switch is the switch that is triggered at the bottom of the clutch travel. There's also the cruise control disable switch, that triggers at the top of the clutch pedal travel. The clutch safety (bottom) requires a relay to be used with the MSD, and it's a pain.

I have the MSD (speaking of the devil, it just quit on me a few days ago like they almost always do), I tried 2 methods. I first bought a momentary button switch from radioshack that is only triggered while it is held in, and deactivates when you let go. I placed that switch underneath my clutch pedal, so when the clutch is pushed in fully, the stutterbox activates. The problem with this method is it is only active within the bottom 1" of travel or so, and as soon as you begin to let the clutch out, and the clutch hasnt engaged fully or at all, the stutterbox will deactivate and your revs will shoot up (barely at all or a lot depending on how the switch is positioned and where your engagement point is). THere isn't a way around this, since if you made the switch activate higher, you wouldn't be able to push the clutch all the way in because the switch would block it.

The second method, which I much prefer, uses the cruise control disable switch (upper switch). If you look at your clutch pedal assembly, this is the switch that is triggered by the clutch at all times, but as soon as you push in the clutch slightly, the switch is deactivated. It's positioned backwards so this is possible. Just push in the clutch an inch or so, and look for the button switch that is deactivated when you do this, that is your switch. Splice the blue wire from the MSD into the RED/BLACK wire coming out of the cruise switch.

The added benefit of using the top cruise switch is that you can use the stutterbox as a no-lift-shift system as well. When you shift at top RPM, push in the clutch pedal while continuing to hold the gas down, and shift. You'll hold boost between shifts with no blow off, and the RPM will still come down as if you let off between shifts. IF set up correcltly and done correctly, you can actually shift smoother at WOT using no-lift than normal shifting, not to mention there is NO lag between shifts. I also added another flip toggle switch in-line from the MSD blue wire to the cruise disable switch, that way I can flip the switch and disable the entire stutterbox system if needed.

Hope this helps!

 

[funguy]

thanks, that answers my question.

i actually put my blue wire to the cruise disable switch, now that you have spoken. i have actually put in a male spade into the negative terminal (black wire), and it didn't activate, i guess i will have to try the other wire which is the red stripped black wire you are talking about.

thanks a bunch, and i'll let you guys know how this go's!

 

[andymoraitis]

The clutch safety pedal switch is the switch that is triggered at the bottom of the clutch travel. There's also the cruise control disable switch, that triggers at the top of the clutch pedal travel. The clutch safety (bottom) requires a relay to be used with the MSD, and it's a pain.

I have the MSD (speaking of the devil, it just quit on me a few days ago like they almost always do), I tried 2 methods. I first bought a momentary button switch from radioshack that is only triggered while it is held in, and deactivates when you let go. I placed that switch underneath my clutch pedal, so when the clutch is pushed in fully, the stutterbox activates. The problem with this method is it is only active within the bottom 1" of travel or so, and as soon as you begin to let the clutch out, and the clutch hasnt engaged fully or at all, the stutterbox will deactivate and your revs will shoot up (barely at all or a lot depending on how the switch is positioned and where your engagement point is). THere isn't a way around this, since if you made the switch activate higher, you wouldn't be able to push the clutch all the way in because the switch would block it.

The second method, which I much prefer, uses the cruise control disable switch (upper switch). If you look at your clutch pedal assembly, this is the switch that is triggered by the clutch at all times, but as soon as you push in the clutch slightly, the switch is deactivated. It's positioned backwards so this is possible. Just push in the clutch an inch or so, and look for the button switch that is deactivated when you do this, that is your switch. Splice the blue wire from the MSD into the RED/BLACK wire coming out of the cruise switch.

The added benefit of using the top cruise switch is that you can use the stutterbox as a no-lift-shift system as well. When you shift at top RPM, push in the clutch pedal while continuing to hold the gas down, and shift. You'll hold boost between shifts with no blow off, and the RPM will still come down as if you let off between shifts. IF set up correcltly and done correctly, you can actually shift smoother at WOT using no-lift than normal shifting, not to mention there is NO lag between shifts. I also added another flip toggle switch in-line from the MSD blue wire to the cruise disable switch, that way I can flip the switch and disable the entire stutterbox system if needed.

Hope this helps!

Fanstastic post!

 

[funguy]

The clutch safety pedal switch is the switch that is triggered at the bottom of the clutch travel. There's also the cruise control disable switch, that triggers at the top of the clutch pedal travel. The clutch safety (bottom) requires a relay to be used with the MSD, and it's a pain.

I have the MSD (speaking of the devil, it just quit on me a few days ago like they almost always do), I tried 2 methods. I first bought a momentary button switch from radioshack that is only triggered while it is held in, and deactivates when you let go. I placed that switch underneath my clutch pedal, so when the clutch is pushed in fully, the stutterbox activates. The problem with this method is it is only active within the bottom 1" of travel or so, and as soon as you begin to let the clutch out, and the clutch hasnt engaged fully or at all, the stutterbox will deactivate and your revs will shoot up (barely at all or a lot depending on how the switch is positioned and where your engagement point is). THere isn't a way around this, since if you made the switch activate higher, you wouldn't be able to push the clutch all the way in because the switch would block it.

The second method, which I much prefer, uses the cruise control disable switch (upper switch). If you look at your clutch pedal assembly, this is the switch that is triggered by the clutch at all times, but as soon as you push in the clutch slightly, the switch is deactivated. It's positioned backwards so this is possible. Just push in the clutch an inch or so, and look for the button switch that is deactivated when you do this, that is your switch. Splice the blue wire from the MSD into the RED/BLACK wire coming out of the cruise switch.

The added benefit of using the top cruise switch is that you can use the stutterbox as a no-lift-shift system as well. When you shift at top RPM, push in the clutch pedal while continuing to hold the gas down, and shift. You'll hold boost between shifts with no blow off, and the RPM will still come down as if you let off between shifts. IF set up correcltly and done correctly, you can actually shift smoother at WOT using no-lift than normal shifting, not to mention there is NO lag between shifts. I also added another flip toggle switch in-line from the MSD blue wire to the cruise disable switch, that way I can flip the switch and disable the entire stutterbox system if needed.

Hope this helps!

i'm having troubles wiring the blue wire up still. I have tried both the red/black wire from the harness and the solid black. The red/black before the switch has 12v potential when i have my key turned to "ON"- this wire has a constant 12 volts, so when i have my blue wire hooked up before the switch, the 2 step is always triggered to the value i have set, even with the clutch pedal up.

When i hook the blue wire up to the negative terminal (black wire), my 2 step never kicks in, even with my clutch down. Theoretically, the switch should be closed when i have the clutch down, and 12 volts passes through the switch putting 12 volts into my (wired in parallel) blue wire which is spaded into the harness.

I have taken out the switch and checked the switch, and it operates normal. When the button is pushed in = infinite resistance. And when released = approx 2ohms. Which means the switch is not the problem.

My blue wire and spade is not the problem also, as it works when i connect my spade into the same harness of the red/ black wire.

Now this is starting to piss me off, as this thing is suppose to be a piece of cake. Sorry for the long post, kinda had to vent.

Any help? thanks guys

 

[funguy]

hmm nevermind, forgot electrons travel into path with least resistance. now i might have to wire a relay to that switch now. boo. its already a bi*** to get under there to work with those 22awg wires.