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Indy Race Core & TD06 20G

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1FAST2G

20+ Year Contributor
138
0
Sep 19, 2002
La Puente, California
I bought a 20G off my friend that has a 98 GS-T. It has the outlet like the stock T-25. I wanted the outlet to face down like a regular 20G so I could have the piping for my Race Core be the shortest possible. But Road Race told my friend that if he has the 20G facing down that the piping will hit the motor mount. Is this true? I have a GSX, does that make a difference? I know that the cross members are different but will the 20G be able to fit with the outlet facing down? I know everybody going to say ask Ken, but I already placed an order about 2 weeks ago. He hasn't billed my credit card so I know he hasn't shipped it yet. I have been trying to call him almost every day to discuss this. I have left messages and e-mail but he won't return them. I never told him that my outlet on my 20G is facing the wrong way. I only told him in the messages I left and the e-mails I sent. Does anybody have that problem with the motor mount on the cars?
 
Well Ive never seen or heard of any 20g that doesnt face down. Are you sure you got a 20g and not a 16g or something? On a 20g comp housing the outlet points almost straight down and the 14b/16g point up and require a J=Pipe (which Ken sells also for like 50$ or something). Anyhow if it does point down it wont hit the motor mount cause the piping that Ken sells has a 90* bend in it and cuts very close but doesnt hit the MM at all. if its a 16g then youll need to purchase some sort of J-pipe. No offense to Ken, but his J pipes are a little to big. Id rather buy one from somewhere else cause Kens stick out pretty far and pretty much require the use of a slimline fan. I have a 16g with his Jpipe and a slimline and am happy with it, but if I did it over Id get someone elses J pipe....

AUstin
 
Ouch..... Only thing to do really is to either skip out on all of Ken's piping and buy just the core, then buy seperate piping. Or you can just have the elbow cut-off and use Kens piping. I had a super16g which had an elbow on it as well, and the way it was welded on, sorta left the opition for it to be cut off later on without actually cutting the compressor outlet (just the elbow). Im not sure how yours is welded but that would definetly be the easier and cheaper route. Pluse Ken's pipng is quite nice and has a very short route as well...
 
I already have kens core. I bought it when he had it on sale through the group buy. I want to cut off the elbow and put it back to the way it was. I just want to make sure it will work with kens piping.
 
Yes it will work perfectly. All you need is the 4 pipes that Ken gives with his normal kit. The one will connect right to the outlet, come down and bend towards the driver side. The other will connect and go the same way until its 90* bend than it will connect right to the core no problems. Obviously there is always a little customization involved but not much. I did however chop the crap out of the hole where the ic pipes connect to the core. I removed m fogs too but you dont have to, I just didnt like em'
 
You want the 90 degree elbow welded to point to the driver side. Ken's IC pipes will work but it's tight fit because it will rub against the front motor mount. You can clock your comp housing to the front a little to clear (if you have external wastegate) but I said it's easier just to weld a short radius 90 pointing towards the driver side and use a reducer coupler (depending on what size IC pipe you have) and a straight pipe to fit.

I have issues with my Green turbo because I didnt weld the 90 degree elbow. The outlet of the housing is 2" and my IC pipe is 2.5". I need a reducer coupler on the turbo outlet and my 2.5" 90 degree IC pipe kept rubbing against the motor mount and the reducer coupler leak at the turbo outlet. I ended up getting a truck 90 degree radiator hose to connect the pipes.

Go to my picture Gallery and look at how my IC pipes used to run. The turbo outlet is directly above the front motor mount (cannot see from the picture tho but trust me it's there). Now, with the radiator hose, it works much better but I can see the motor mount *ate* into the hose a little. Oh well, as long as it does not leak and pop.
 
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