Question about my 255?

[TKI]

A while back we thought that the fuel pump was going bad on my car, so I ordered a 255 to put in. It seems to run good now, but it kinda splutters at idle, not bad, but some. Ive read this is because it is overload the stock fpr.

My question is, should I take it off till I get a fpr, or should I just leave it in? Ive since then acquired a couple more fuel pumps, so I have extra ones.

Also, what would you guys recommend for a fpr? I would like to get one that mounts on the rail, and Ive seen them somewhere but dont remember where?

TIA

 

[Slippi84]

Yep you my friend are probably overunning your stock fpr and while some say that it's not something that will damage your car I think that cuttin corners with a dsm is the fastest way to end up with something broke and a car in the garage. You can either take the 255 off or replace your fpr with a new aftermarket unit which will flow enough return fuel so your not drowing your injectors. Aremotive makes great units and can usualy be had for about 150 used on tuners or ebay just check around. You want a true 1:1 riing afpr that's perferably bolt on.

 

[tsunari]

Definitely need an AFPR & Gauge . . . FTS (Full Throttle Speed) Makes a nice bolt-on regulator for both the 1g & 2g rail. Got mine a couple weeks ago from Import Evolution.

 

[boostedinaz]

Definitely need an AFPR & Gauge . . . FTS (Full Throttle Speed) Makes a nice bolt-on regulator for both the 1g & 2g rail. Got mine a couple weeks ago from Import Evolution.

Got the same one will be going on this weekend.

 

[Turbocharged]

I have the same and it works great.

 

[tsunari]

Got the same one will be going on this weekend.

Just 2 quick notes . . .

1) Make sure to use some teflon tape on the threads. I tried using plumbers putty and it was eventually washed away and leaked

2) make sure you only use BRASS fittings on the aluminum AFPR body. I was test-fitting my glycol filled gauge on the AFPR body and the threads actually bonded to the gauge. Later found out that the gauge housing & threads are stainless steel. SS + Aluminum =


Also not sure if the threads on the adjustment screw need to have some teflon wrapped around them or not . . . I know most ppl w/ the Aeromotive piece do this, but I have yet to do a boost leak test after getting everything installed, so do not know if there is a leak there or not.

Anyone have experience with this?

 

[TKI]

Thanks for all the replies guys. That was exactly what I wanted to know. Im gonna check on the FTS, and I might order one if not to expensive. If not, then I will put the stock one back one till I get it.

Again, thanks!!!!