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the new setup..

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larryd

20+ Year Contributor
4,546
5
Nov 26, 2001
Bear, Delaware
Well everything should be on its way, now its just a matter of putting it all back together. It wasnt that bad though, only took about 2.5 hours to get the head off the car...

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Engine
I got 1g IM & TB, both are from the 91-94 model years, not sure which year exactly. I stuck wit the 2g head and Im having the intake ports matched to the 1g IM and the exhaust ports just cleaned up. I went with a OEM 4 layer metal head gasket. The collector on the exhaust manifold and turbo are both being opened up to 7cm. Im getting a valve job done with SS 1mm oversized valves and new springs/retainers from crower while Im at it.

Exhaust
I have a sponsor getting me a new Apexi N1 from Apexi as soon as their in stock, hopefully soon.

Clutch
I have the ACT 2100 sitting in my garage and my fidanza flywheel should be on its way to me early this week.

Misc
I also have everything to do the timing belt sitting in my garage.

I have alot of work ahead of me to say the least.. Im still up in the air on cams as I want to work out a deal as the cheap ass in me is peaking through :). Anyhow I just wanted to thank everyone for their help and everyone wish me luck getting the beast back together soon.
 
Nice Larry. Goodluck getting her back together and better luck getting her to pull the numbers you are looking for. I am sure you'll be pleased when she is back on the road.
 
It doesn't look like you pulled the block out. You may have a problem getting the metal head gasket to seal without decking the block. It is also going to lower your compression since it is thicker than a stock gasket. You might want to stick with a stock gasket unless you plan on going over 23 lbs of boost. You could always have the head o-ringed and stay with a stock gasket too.
 
2.5 hours to pull the head???? Amateur!! ;)


JET,

You are wasting your time. Larry never listens to GOOD advice. He listens to whoever is the most popular in an aol chat room. I've told him several times that you must get the head and block decked to use the metal HG, and I got flamed for 'making the job too big.' I agree. He should use a stock gasket, until he can afford to do it the right way.

Regards,
 
....hey why dont u do the timing belt while u have things all apart, u said u have the new parts right, "a belt in time saves 9[valves]" especially with the worked head....

Did you even look at the pic, or did you just regurgitate something you heard on www.dsm.org? Unless Larry has some REALLY good super glue, he isn't going to be re-using that T-belt any time soon.

Regards,
 
Stock HG is good for 30psi. I dont see any reason to go for metal. Also, are you putting in ARP headstuds? Dont miss this opportunity while it's out.

Btw NJGSX96, stock is 3 angle valve job.
 
Let's put it this way. You said it's not possible, someone did it. From what I see, running anything above 20psi is asking for trouble if you dont know what you are doing. I dont see the need to O ring the head unless going for copper HG. Brain hood told me he was running around 30psi on the stock HG and still holding. I believed he knows what he was doing.
 
I didn't say it wasn't possible, I said you are looking for trouble. It may hold for a bit, but not for long unless you are really lucky. O-ringing the head or block pinches the head gasket around the bore and holds it in place.
 
JET: How many people do you know right now that are successfully running an o-ringed block? I would have to say that 90% of the fast people out there are just using a metal headgasket either mitsu or hks. I know that you can keep the head bolted down fine with arps I think o-ringing is not really necessary.
 
No need to get the block decked, and I'm sure with the head work he has done that the head itself was decked. Do use ARP head studs, they are cheap as dirt from summit racing ($80 or so), and do remember to use some copper sealer spray on that metal head gasket.
 
no i didnt remove the block, I dont recall someone telling me to get the block decked to use a metal head gasket, why would the block have to be decked just for metal and not for stock, if its warped either way your screwed right?? and Im not planning on pulling the block out for that sole purpose unless I plan on replacing it with a 6 bolt which will eventually happen.

yes I went with ARP head studs

yes Im doing the timing belt

and you say a factory head gasket should be good to 25-30psi, I run 15-20 and blew mine so go figure, I didnt wnat to slap another one on there to just blow it over time either. Yes I know Im lowering the compression, but Im also planning on turning the boost up closer to 23-25lbs once I get everything back together, broken in and running right..
 
The head may have lifted when the you ran above 20psi. That where the ARP headstuds are for.
 
RDRKT- I never said you couldn't use a metal head gasket or that they didn't work. I said that you should get the block decked before you try and use one. A metal headgasket is alot more suceptable to leaking than a stock one because it doesn't flex as much. If the block is not extremely flat it will not seal good. Also, most of the fast guys do O-ring either the head or block. Check out Buschur's stage 3 head.
 
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