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supporting mods for FP Green?

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larryd

20+ Year Contributor
4,546
5
Nov 26, 2001
Bear, Delaware
just outta curiosity.. Ive just been doing alot of thinking lately.. what would u need to the FP Green with external wastegate?

FP Green Turbo
Tial 40mm Wastegate
New Exhaust Manifold
660s
Walbro 255lh Fuel Pump

is that it? to be able to run the Green..
 
you could always get a o2 mounted gate,and keep your exsisting mainfold.
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Depends on what kind of ET you want to get from the turbo. Those you listed are just basic stuff to run that turbo. You didnt list FMIC, full exhaust, AFPR, ported manifold, O2 or O2 eliminator but I think you know they are necessary. If you want to get the full out from the turbo, think about having cams, mild head job, beef up valve train and raise the rev limiter (w/ TMO mod or equivalent). Most people also get the bottom end build when they are there. With that much power, breaking tranny is common so rebuilding stronger tranny is necessary.
Also, when you reach the 450WHP mark, the stock ECU seems to be the most common problem, you have to look into standalone.
 
im sorry i should have said in addition to what I already have.. as I have the ported o2 housing, 3" turbo back exhaust, no cat, greddy FMIC, basically most bolt ons.. I was just wondering what Id have to change to get the FP Green to work..
 
how much of a difference do you think id notice going from a big 28 to the Green? Im trying to make the most out of what I have now but I may roll this direction eventually or the FP30 when tis released..
 
I think it will bump you quite a few MPH just by going to the Green. Like I said, those are the min. mod to run a Green and you will need to tune really hard to get the most out of every turbo. If you run race gas at the track, you probably want to tune with race gas too. On C-16, I have heard people going as low as .5-.6v on the O2 w/o detonating.
If you want to be a pump gas freak like Dre, the route is getting bigger turbo and standalone where you get control on timing and fuel maps. If I were you, I would get some cams and do some serious tuning w/ the existing turbo.
 
well i dont think cams will do anything to be honest.. if you look at my dynos in the other post it shows that im not losing any power at peak, well not much power anyhow.. and I dont know if cams are worth it to pick up minimal power.
 
Are you really against cams? Thats like the third post from you not needing cams.......I would imagine you've seen on RRE 's site the increase they got from cams......some crazy sh@t like 32 hp, massive!
I felt a real dynoed ass difference on top end. AND!, why's everbody juming on Greens and Red and not Franks and you can use all your Mitsubishi stuff......?
BTW: BIG LAG when sur pass Big 16g and start getting into the 20ged sized turbo's............but they are MONSTERS. I can't wait to get a Frank 4 with Extreme O2 w/ 40 mm Tial BIGG $$$$$$$$ though it's one way to 400 WHP.........
 
im for anything that will make me more power.. but as I was trying to show in my other post that no one is seeming to look at is the FP Big 28 isnt dropping off power at top end like the big 16g does.. my dyno looks closer to the dyno of the Big 16g with the web cams..
 
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Hey, that's my W/G set-up (mine's red though)!

381Dsc00009-med.jpg


how much of a difference do you think id notice going from a big 28 to the Green? Im trying to make the most out of what I have now but I may roll this direction eventually or the FP30 when tis released..

Tuned properly...probably quite a bit. Although, no matter what direction you go in cams ARE going to help. When you start to step up to some of the "big dog" turbos, motor build-up starts to pay BIG dividends (pistons, rods, motor balancing, and definitely some good head work...porting/polishing, SS valves, springs, retainers and of course cams again). I wouldn't even think (this is just me) about running the FP-30 w/o some serious motor work.
Cams WILL give you more power Larry...especially on top end. Doesn't matter if you're not "falling off" on top end like you say. That's just all the better for you. In that case you are "adding" top end power and won't have to be "making it up" due to the turbo falling off at high rpm. Cams would be a good option if you want to really take FULL advantage of the 28. The mods you listed above are about what you would "need" to run the Green (I think you have most everything else already). I'd also add an AFPR though. Getting into the 12's isn't going to be easy, period, though for a 2G FWD (I know that was one of your goals). And having a "bone stock" motor from the TB to the oil pan isn't going to help either. But I DO think you could do it. Just keep plugging along and eventually you'll decide on the route you want to take. And we'll still be here to keep giving ya our .02 cents!
 
Every car will react differently to cams. It will definitely help you if you are running high boost and a big turbo. If your dyno graph looks more like the RRE test car with webcam and B16G, how do you know the HP on your car wont continue to climb higher than now?

I have the HKS 264s and L2 turbo, from 4.5-5krpm, it felt like a ON switch and it PULLS HARD to redline. That is just my car tho but the guy that sold me the cams said the same thing too.

Good luck.
 
Originally posted by GSTspeedracer
AND!, why's everbody juming on Greens and Red and not Franks and you can use all your Mitsubishi stuff......?
BTW: BIG LAG when sur pass Big 16g and start getting into the 20ged sized turbo's............but they are MONSTERS. I can't wait to get a Frank 4 with Extreme O2 w/ 40 mm Tial BIGG $$$$$$$$ though it's one way to 400 WHP.........
In case you didnt notice, the Green, Red and Franks all came from Robert. Why pick a FRANK 4 with "60" and not a RED? Seriously tho, Red turbo or any "60" turbos is not for everyone. Especially a street car.
 
Before you do any of this go out spend a few dollars (100 if you want bling bling) and get an intake temp gauge. A larger turbo will not give you more power if you are not overheating the air with your current turbo (and I don't think you are at 20psig). Tune the car before you drop another 4 grand on it please larry.
 
FYI-Forced Performance also offers to put the external waste gate on your current manifold.

So either way you don't HAVE to get a new manifold.

1) o2 mounted waste gate
2) current manifold mounted waste gate
 
Originally posted by crankbender
Before you do any of this go out spend a few dollars (100 if you want bling bling) and get an intake temp gauge. A larger turbo will not give you more power if you are not overheating the air with your current turbo (and I don't think you are at 20psig). Tune the car before you drop another 4 grand on it please larry.

im working on it man, a larger turbo and / or nitrous are 2 of my last options.. i just want to figure out all my routes before jumping into anything, thats all
 
Not many people has tried the Crower yet. However, I can tell you this. Stick with what works. HKS or webcam (due to quality issues, i would avoid it too).
 
In case you didnt notice, the Green, Red and Franks all came from Robert. Why pick a FRANK 4 with "60" and not a RED? Seriously tho, Red turbo or any "60" turbos is not for everyone. Especially a street car.

I knew that he created both........................
I just thought you needed a different manifold and O2.
 
...my dyno looks closer to the dyno of the Big 16g with the web cams.....

Larry, imagine how good it will look WITH the cams. The bigger the turbo you have, the more of a gain you will see with cams on top end. Read my response on cams in the HKS vs. Web thread. You will learn pretty much all you need to know. Get cams dude. ;) (hint hint..get the Webs or the Crowers.)

Regards,
 
Don't get the Web's, atleast for the Big28 ..get HKS imo. Also, I would think a BR20G would do the trick and its about 300 bucks cheaper and its all the power you will ever need for a FWD car. I think its good for at least 450 to the ground. Not that I have anything against the Green because I think its a great turbo! Just remember when you go to a turbo of that size, you most likely will want an external wg such as a tial 40mm or so. I just think larry before you decide to go to a bigger turbo, you might want to think about getting a quaife first and run nitto's. I think that would help you at the track CONSIDERABLY. With your current setup and that, you should be able to get into the high 12's on race gas. Also, DSM link would be a good idea as you can log intake temp's..think someone else mentioned this. I am currently trying to decide how to make a nice cold air setup for daily driven use.
 
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